Gears not changing
Discussion
mk08 said:
Super Sonic said:
Are you able to fit it yourself? If not, bear in mind a lot of garages don't like fitting customer-supplied parts.
No I can't.You can still specify the quality of parts fitted, and in this case I would be going for the LUK for 120 quid difference, unless you are selling it.
Doesitdrive said:
mk08 said:
Super Sonic said:
Are you able to fit it yourself? If not, bear in mind a lot of garages don't like fitting customer-supplied parts.
No I can't.You can still specify the quality of parts fitted, and in this case I would be going for the LUK for 120 quid difference, unless you are selling it.
Can I drive it to the garage? Or should I tow it?
mk08 said:
Do I need to buy a new clutch kit?
Euro car parts has Starline for £39.99, trasmech for £43.99 and LUK for £160.99.
Assuming all 3 are same but price difference because of brands?
Thank you
The first two are absolute rubbish and we wouldn’t fit either of them.Euro car parts has Starline for £39.99, trasmech for £43.99 and LUK for £160.99.
Assuming all 3 are same but price difference because of brands?
Thank you
The selector/cables also play up on these.
mk08 said:
Doesitdrive said:
Thought you said it won't go in gear running?
How would you do that if so.?
You can select a gear when engine is switched off. So if I choose 1st or 2nd gear before switching engine on. It will work.How would you do that if so.?
I'm not expert but what do you think.
stevieturbo said:
You need to diagnose the fault, then decide what needs bought or not.
It could be a simple cable/hydraulic issue, slave ( easy if external ) or other problem before you need to start ripping the gearbox out to replace the clutch.
Absolutely this. No point spending all that money on fitting a clutch if it only needs a cable.It could be a simple cable/hydraulic issue, slave ( easy if external ) or other problem before you need to start ripping the gearbox out to replace the clutch.
You can start it in 2nd and drive it there in second, or change gear by rev matching without a clutch (easier going up the gears than down). Depends how confident you'll be doing it on the road. Also coming to a stop at light sand junctions will be difficult.
Is the slave cylinder internal or external? Any sign of clutch fluid leaking?
Is the slave cylinder internal or external? Any sign of clutch fluid leaking?
RacingStripes said:
You can start it in 2nd and drive it there in second, or change gear by rev matching without a clutch (easier going up the gears than down). Depends how confident you'll be doing it on the road. Also coming to a stop at light sand junctions will be difficult.
Is the slave cylinder internal or external? Any sign of clutch fluid leaking?
Can't seen sign of leaking because. But it made a snapping/breaking like sound before stopping.Is the slave cylinder internal or external? Any sign of clutch fluid leaking?
If you select a gear with the engine off, will the engine start? Some cars have a start inhibit unless its in neutral (and some unless the clutch is down) making it impossible.
And if it does start in 2nd, does the clutch engage and disengage? If it does, then its going to be much easier.
Did it fail quickly or gradually get worse?
It could be a number of things from your vague/incomplete info so far, for example slave cylinder, needs bleeding, mechanical cable needs adjusting, fluid leak etc. Given your level of expertise I'd advise its recovered to the garage (phone/ask the garage, they are bound to know someone who can help) and diagnosed properly.
And if it does start in 2nd, does the clutch engage and disengage? If it does, then its going to be much easier.
Did it fail quickly or gradually get worse?
It could be a number of things from your vague/incomplete info so far, for example slave cylinder, needs bleeding, mechanical cable needs adjusting, fluid leak etc. Given your level of expertise I'd advise its recovered to the garage (phone/ask the garage, they are bound to know someone who can help) and diagnosed properly.
mk08 said:
Can't seen sign of leaking because. But it made a snapping/breaking like sound before stopping.
If it made a snapping noise on failure, I'd be looking at the clutch cable first. (Assuming the car has a cable clutch, hydraulic clutch is less likely to make such a noise as there is nothing to snap). How does the clutch pedal feel compared to normal? If there is no resistance or it's down on the floor, that would also suggest a cable failure.
An easy fix compared to replacing the clutch - this why you need to diagnose the problem first before buying expensive parts you may not need.
Surely whoever you want to fix this will be able to get it to their garage? Just phone whoever you want to repair it and ask them, they will help as they do this stuff everyday. Chances are once they know what car it is they will have an idea of the problem, as you won't be the first to have this issue.
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