UppingTurbo Boost
Discussion
Hi, in this months ppc mag there is an article on Cheap Boost, near the end of the article it mentions you can fit an air valve in the actuator air line and control the max boost via a pressure switch, has anyone done this and if so have you more info of exact layout and components used. Ta
cabs said:
Hi, in this months ppc mag there is an article on Cheap Boost, near the end of the article it mentions you can fit an air valve in the actuator air line and control the max boost via a pressure switch, has anyone done this and if so have you more info of exact layout and components used. Ta
Depending on your cars ECU (map based or air flow meter), ignore the statement in the article about binning the recirculating dump valve and replacing it with an atmospheric one. If you have an AFM - you need a recirc dump valve.
eliot said:
Depending on your cars ECU (map based or air flow meter), ignore the statement in the article about binning the recirculating dump valve and replacing it with an atmospheric one. If you have an AFM - you need a recirc dump valve.
No you don't. You can run a atmospheric dump valve with an AFM, you just need the right type.
pdd144c said:
No you don't. You can run a atmospheric dump valve with an AFM, you just need the right type.
Its not how I understand the problem, but I'm not going to argue - I run MAP.
So what's the "right type" then and are you talking about a specific type of car? (that can cope with a atmos dump)
Edited by eliot on Friday 4th May 09:03
eliot said:
pdd144c said:
No you don't. You can run a atmospheric dump valve with an AFM, you just need the right type.
Its not how I understand the problem, but I'm not going to argue - I run MAP.
So what's the "right type" then and are you talking about a specific type of car? (that can cope with a atmos dump)
Edited by eliot on Friday 4th May 09:03
The biggest problem with running a vent to atmos DV on a turbo car with an airflow meter, is if you use one with a light spring pressure, so that its actually open at idle and cruise. This will mess things up.
So they use a stiffer spring inside, so the DV remains shut at these times, whereas on a non MAF car, a lighter spring DV can be used, as it doesnt matter so much if its open at idle and cruise.
stevieturbo said:
The biggest problem with running a vent to atmos DV on a turbo car with an airflow meter, is if you use one with a light spring pressure, so that its actually open at idle and cruise. This will mess things up.
So they use a stiffer spring inside, so the DV remains shut at these times, whereas on a non MAF car, a lighter spring DV can be used, as it doesnt matter so much if its open at idle and cruise.
That makes sense as my DV is open at certain points during non boosted driving.
pdd144c said:
It's easy really. Just buy an Apexi or HKS system. It basically blocks/pulses the signal to the actuator, allowing the wastegate to stay shut for longer, and giving a higher amount of boost. I've used them on numerous cars.
Good way to do it, probably the best infact. but they certainly not the cheapest way.
azboy25 said:
yep if running a atmopheric dump valve it wont do no harm as will run rich between gear changes keeping the pistons a little cooler as the meterd air by the maf is let out by the dump valve causing a rich mixture when off throttal which is not a bad thing.
Cooling of the pistons should be irrelevant to be honest. Running ever so slightly rich isn't a bad thing, most tuners map cars a touch on the rich side as it's seen as being cautious, a very aggressive map where every last gain possible is wrung out of the map means it's far more likely to det if it's an exceptionally hot day or boost creeps up unexpectedly etc etc. a smidgen more fuel thanks to a less aggressive map keeps the dreaded det at bay. Running excessively rich is just inefficient, often resulting in poor combustion (fouled plugs, down on power, yadda yadda yadda).
The downside of overfuelling, particularly with regards to DV's /BOV's is it can shorten the life of your cat (not the furry kind, unless it's sucking on the exhaust fumes). Realistically though, you will only overfuel for a second or so, so it's not going to kill a cat in a week unless it's already on it's way out. Worth bearing in mind though.
stevieturbo said:
Or you could mount a cheap plastic fish tank bleed valve inside the car, for easily under £10
But raising the boost blindly on any car, can be dangerous. So do proceed with caution regardless of how you increase the boost.
But raising the boost blindly on any car, can be dangerous. So do proceed with caution regardless of how you increase the boost.
yep, raising the boost excessively can cause probs, especially if it's to the point where you're fuelling can't match the increased airflow = running lean = det.
Bleed valves are, for want of a better word, pikey. Avoid them like the plague, especially ones with long lengths of hose between the valve and the lines. They don't normally control boost very well at all, in that they quite often cause large boost spikes.
If you want a cheap way to increase boost (assuming you have a boost gauge, asking for a dead engine if you haven't) get yourself a "dawes device" which is essentially a gated bleed valve which uses a spring and ball bearing affair, and controls the boost a hell of a lot better. These can be had for 30 quid or so and are well worth it. I've used them and had no boost spiking or things of that nature. http://82.110.105.84/apexperformance.
can be found there, can be had cheaper than that though.
All they're doing is preventing any pressure reaching the actuator until you hit your desired boost level. basically delays the actuator recieving it's signal. piece of cake to fit, takes all of 2 minutes, and a couple of quick runs in the car to get the boost level setup
cabs said:
Thanks for info. I have an adjustable pressure switch plumbed in and was looking for a valve to control the supply boost. Would one from the carbon canistor do? would they work under pressure? as I think they are meant for a vacuum system. Thanks
It's been a very late night, so it could be me, but I'm really not sure what you mean there. The way I read it sounds like you've got a manual boost controller and want another valve to control that, any chance you could clarify for me? (like I said, could well be me, I'm knackered and haven't got my thinking hat on).
The only real benefit of a Dawes over a quality made bleed valve, is that the Dawes blocks the signal to the w/g due to its internal spring.
Boost can still be a little erratic at times.
Although every car is different. Most bleed valves I had seen lately are pure crap too. Years ago they used to be much better.
Given you can find various electronic boost controllers for pretty sensible money either new or second hand these days, its hard to see why you would want to use anything else. In the overall scheme of things, they arent expensive.
Im not a fan of the AVCR, simply because its a pain to setup. Im not a fan of big flashy things anyway. I prefer it to simply get the job done.
Boost can still be a little erratic at times.
Although every car is different. Most bleed valves I had seen lately are pure crap too. Years ago they used to be much better.
Given you can find various electronic boost controllers for pretty sensible money either new or second hand these days, its hard to see why you would want to use anything else. In the overall scheme of things, they arent expensive.
Im not a fan of the AVCR, simply because its a pain to setup. Im not a fan of big flashy things anyway. I prefer it to simply get the job done.
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