Electrical Interference gremlins on Kit Car
Discussion
I have a rotary engined kit car, i'm using a universal kit car wiring loom for the car and the ecu is a standalone after market ECU (microtech) which had its own loom, I'm using a Koso digi dash and a shift light with a digi rev counter in the middle. The ecu has a little display unit showing whats going on with the ecu.
I have always had a very occasional issue with the dash, shift light and ecu display resetting or turning off or just giving scrambed characters on the screens. It only happened after high revs and as soon as the ignition is switched on/off it was all fine. Since re mapping last week for a new turbo it is doing it every time i high rev the car.
I have plenty of earths, everything in the dash is connected to an earth lead which goes straight to the battery. This fat wire also goes to the chassis and engine. I can drive for hours at normal revs and it will be fine but quick high revs ie 1st and 2nd gear makes eveything go haywire.
The ecu seems to be fine which is strange as the controller is wired directly to the ecu and not connected to anything else.
Could it be something to do with the new turbo, should i earth the turbo separately on its own?
Any help is much appreciated.
I have always had a very occasional issue with the dash, shift light and ecu display resetting or turning off or just giving scrambed characters on the screens. It only happened after high revs and as soon as the ignition is switched on/off it was all fine. Since re mapping last week for a new turbo it is doing it every time i high rev the car.
I have plenty of earths, everything in the dash is connected to an earth lead which goes straight to the battery. This fat wire also goes to the chassis and engine. I can drive for hours at normal revs and it will be fine but quick high revs ie 1st and 2nd gear makes eveything go haywire.
The ecu seems to be fine which is strange as the controller is wired directly to the ecu and not connected to anything else.
Could it be something to do with the new turbo, should i earth the turbo separately on its own?
Any help is much appreciated.
My immediate thought was earthing but sounds like you have that covered. Is it possible for turbos to make big static charges, given that they spin so fast? No idea or experience but for the sake of another strap on the housing, might be worth a try to earth that too...
If you have access to a 'scope, could be an idea to look at the various power feeds and see if you have any obvious noise going on
If you have access to a 'scope, could be an idea to look at the various power feeds and see if you have any obvious noise going on
I dont have a scope and wouldnt know how to use one properly 
I think i will add a strap to the housing as it can only help. the guy at the dyno said try sticking some suppressors on the wiring going to the digi parts which i will also try.
Just remembered, I put a voltage stabilizer on the battery a while ago as i thought it may be that.
I think i will add a strap to the housing as it can only help. the guy at the dyno said try sticking some suppressors on the wiring going to the digi parts which i will also try.
Just remembered, I put a voltage stabilizer on the battery a while ago as i thought it may be that.
I had a microtech on a rotary, had nothing but trouble with the unit itself, now running a DTA which is sweet as a nut...
Capacitors on both the ECU feed and the +12v line to the coils are both a must though, the coils are fairly noisy at high revs.
Capacitors on both the ECU feed and the +12v line to the coils are both a must though, the coils are fairly noisy at high revs.
Edited by PhillipM on Monday 25th May 21:15
Edited by PhillipM on Monday 25th May 21:16
Thanks for the replies guys, I am a ley person when it comes to electrics and I'm not really sure what a lot of the above entails, I just about manage to wire up the car but when it comes to capacitors etc I'm a little lost,
I don't suppose you could put it simple terms for me and point me in the right direction for what I need
I don't suppose you could put it simple terms for me and point me in the right direction for what I need
GreenV8S said:
It could be EMF spikes on the power supply from the ignition. Do you know what HT resistance you're running? You can add resistance at the plugs or leads, or in the plug extenders if you use them. A resistive setup would typically be somewhere between 5K-10KOhms per cylinder.
I second this suggestion, seen it many times when non resistor plugs have been installed. Causing ECU resets and general nastyness at high rpms.Pigeon said:
annodomini2 said:
2200uF 50-60v rating (not electrolytic), they're not expensive
2200uF 50V non-electrolytic "not expensive"???? It would be very expensive, and you'd also have a certain amount of difficulty getting it into the engine bay...79p cheap enough
annodomini2 said:
Pigeon said:
annodomini2 said:
2200uF 50-60v rating (not electrolytic), they're not expensive
2200uF 50V non-electrolytic "not expensive"???? It would be very expensive, and you'd also have a certain amount of difficulty getting it into the engine bay...79p cheap enough
Slinky said:
annodomini2 said:
Pigeon said:
annodomini2 said:
2200uF 50-60v rating (not electrolytic), they're not expensive
2200uF 50V non-electrolytic "not expensive"???? It would be very expensive, and you'd also have a certain amount of difficulty getting it into the engine bay...79p cheap enough
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