I'm going to cry soon (clutch/transmision problem?)
Discussion
1976 MG midget, 1500 engine, previous (possibly related problems)
- slightly worn syncro in 1st, can be a pita getting it into gear unless you double de clutch even from stationary, but works 95% of the time
- recent clutch slave cylinder, seals failed but cant see how this could be impacting anything internally.
- sticky throttle means its sometimes necessary to ride the clutch sometimes around town when in 1st and second as the throttle becomes a bit on/off in the fist 1/4 of its travel, could this have bust something?
When I release the clutch (in any gear by the sound of it) some of the time (say 6-7 times on a hour on the a/b roads) something makes an awful noise, exactly the same noise you'd get if you tried to push it into gear without depressing the clutch, the clutch pedal vibrates (hydraulic clutch) with a medium ish frequency (its not really high screaming vibration, and its not a engine revs kind of slow vibration).
I replaced the clutch slave cylinder recently, could that be the problem?
Its only makes this noise once the cars hot (never done it in the fist 30 miles or so), but I could be prepared to put that down to coincidence.
I'm 99% sure I'm shifting fully into gear but on hearing the nose I'm usually in such a blind panic I just push the clutch back in and go for 1 gear higher.
Off the top of my head, its never done it going into 4 though (again, could be coincidence).
Have I a) got a big problem that's going to cost big money (gearbox failure?)
b) small problem thats going to cost big money (clutch release bearing?)
c) small problem costing small money (anything outside 'the box') I've got facilities and a Hayes manual to do anything apart from swing the engine out to actualy get at the clutch/gearbox.
- slightly worn syncro in 1st, can be a pita getting it into gear unless you double de clutch even from stationary, but works 95% of the time
- recent clutch slave cylinder, seals failed but cant see how this could be impacting anything internally.
- sticky throttle means its sometimes necessary to ride the clutch sometimes around town when in 1st and second as the throttle becomes a bit on/off in the fist 1/4 of its travel, could this have bust something?
When I release the clutch (in any gear by the sound of it) some of the time (say 6-7 times on a hour on the a/b roads) something makes an awful noise, exactly the same noise you'd get if you tried to push it into gear without depressing the clutch, the clutch pedal vibrates (hydraulic clutch) with a medium ish frequency (its not really high screaming vibration, and its not a engine revs kind of slow vibration).
I replaced the clutch slave cylinder recently, could that be the problem?
Its only makes this noise once the cars hot (never done it in the fist 30 miles or so), but I could be prepared to put that down to coincidence.
I'm 99% sure I'm shifting fully into gear but on hearing the nose I'm usually in such a blind panic I just push the clutch back in and go for 1 gear higher.
Off the top of my head, its never done it going into 4 though (again, could be coincidence).
Have I a) got a big problem that's going to cost big money (gearbox failure?)
b) small problem thats going to cost big money (clutch release bearing?)
c) small problem costing small money (anything outside 'the box') I've got facilities and a Hayes manual to do anything apart from swing the engine out to actualy get at the clutch/gearbox.
Edited by thisisnotaspoon on Saturday 29th May 12:54
- Bangs head against wall*
ks, its could at least have been something big, not a tiny little part costing peanuts but taking hours to get to, bks bks bks bks!Pinning my hopes on it being the hose going soft in the heat (like lotus one did) as a cheep fix, I'll replace the hose and see if it improves things.
Much as I'm tempted to sell it I'd not shake the feeling of guilt (its otherwise pretty mint condition and would sell for to wack) just pissing annoying that its already cost me about £400 this year and a new clutch release bearing from what I've heard is going to double that
£400 for a clutch change seems a bit steep to be honest, have you checked out any local MG/classic specialists?
BTW in case it makes it sounds like he palmed it off to an unsuspecting punter; the car had been off the road for a year or so and was starting to get a bit tatty so was sold very cheap as a spares or repair.
BTW in case it makes it sounds like he palmed it off to an unsuspecting punter; the car had been off the road for a year or so and was starting to get a bit tatty so was sold very cheap as a spares or repair.
Edited by Mr2Mike on Saturday 29th May 13:19
No fluid leaking from the clutch so fairly confident there's no leaks
The only other thing I can think of was I did the 130mile round trip in big heavy boots, so potentially maybe I just couldn't feel the clutch biting properly and wasn't pushing it far enough....... I suspect I may e clutching at staws though trying to avoid thinking about another big wadge of money needing to be paid this month.
The only other thing I can think of was I did the 130mile round trip in big heavy boots, so potentially maybe I just couldn't feel the clutch biting properly and wasn't pushing it far enough....... I suspect I may e clutching at staws though trying to avoid thinking about another big wadge of money needing to be paid this month.
It was bled properly with a vacuum bleeding thingamajig (best £25 ever spent) and is/was working fine for the past 800 odd miles.
The problem occurs as the clutch is released, surely any problems with the hydraulics would manifest themselves as not being able to disengage the clutch? Or am I missing something here?
note: I'm presuming I've got the terminology the right way around
disengaged = foot to the floor, changing gear (the noise happens just as you reach the bite point while letting the pedal back up again)
engaged = just driving along normally
The problem occurs as the clutch is released, surely any problems with the hydraulics would manifest themselves as not being able to disengage the clutch? Or am I missing something here?
note: I'm presuming I've got the terminology the right way around
disengaged = foot to the floor, changing gear (the noise happens just as you reach the bite point while letting the pedal back up again)
engaged = just driving along normally
jagracer said:
thisisnotaspoon said:
No fluid leaking from the clutch so fairly confident there's no leaks
It doesn't need to be leaking to be fkedMr2Mike said:
jagracer said:
thisisnotaspoon said:
No fluid leaking from the clutch so fairly confident there's no leaks
It doesn't need to be leaking to be fkedthisisnotaspoon said:
hmmm, sounds like its definitely the clutch release bearing
Anyone got the foggiest idea how much it will cost to remove the engine and fit a new one? I guess about the same a s a new clutch minus the £80 for the clutch itself if anyone's had that done on a similar car?
You generally can't buy individual clutch parts on their own any more, if you can't do it yourself then try one of the specialist MG places such as Gammons.Anyone got the foggiest idea how much it will cost to remove the engine and fit a new one? I guess about the same a s a new clutch minus the £80 for the clutch itself if anyone's had that done on a similar car?
Edited, I lied about the parts, Brown & Gammons do them individually http://www.ukmgparts.com/browse.aspx?CID=a50709b2-... but if you are going to all that trouble I wouldn't just replace the bearing.
Edited by jagracer on Saturday 29th May 17:43
Just been quoted £360 to replace the entire clutch which doesn't seem too bad, well he said it was an estimate, 1500 mg midget didn't give him any results on his PC surprisingly! Tats for a replacement on a BMW 319i from the 80's which he reckoned should be similar enough in terms of man-hours and parts cost.
On the other hand a bearing is £15 form the MGOC, on a scale of 1-10 how hard are they to replace? I know clutches are a professional job as they need alignment tools and the flywheel skimming, is the release bearing something that can be slid on and off fairly easily assuming we can get the gearbox/engine apart?
On the other hand a bearing is £15 form the MGOC, on a scale of 1-10 how hard are they to replace? I know clutches are a professional job as they need alignment tools and the flywheel skimming, is the release bearing something that can be slid on and off fairly easily assuming we can get the gearbox/engine apart?
thisisnotaspoon said:
Just been quoted £360 to replace the entire clutch which doesn't seem too bad, well he said it was an estimate, 1500 mg midget didn't give him any results on his PC surprisingly! Tats for a replacement on a BMW 319i from the 80's which he reckoned should be similar enough in terms of man-hours and parts cost.
On the other hand a bearing is £15 form the MGOC, on a scale of 1-10 how hard are they to replace? I know clutches are a professional job as they need alignment tools and the flywheel skimming, is the release bearing something that can be slid on and off fairly easily assuming we can get the gearbox/engine apart?
I think your one has a push fit roller bearing on a spigot (which may or may not just fall out) as opposed to a graphite bearing that is clipped in. You need to remove either the engine or gearbox, or both. How hard all this is depends on the facilities you have and how much knowledge you possess. As for special tools, you need something to line the clutch up with, a round bar such as a socket extension bar would do if you can't borrow the proper tool, when I had a single plate clutch on my Jaguar I used to use an extension bar with no problems. If needed you could get the flywheel skimmed at an engineering shop but often they don't need it or you may be able to use some fine wet and dry, a flat block and some WD40 or even an exchange flywheel at £60 which is probably cheaper than a skim.On the other hand a bearing is £15 form the MGOC, on a scale of 1-10 how hard are they to replace? I know clutches are a professional job as they need alignment tools and the flywheel skimming, is the release bearing something that can be slid on and off fairly easily assuming we can get the gearbox/engine apart?
Edited by jagracer on Saturday 29th May 18:17
goggle and the Haynes manual say its an engine out job
The bearing itself can be taken off without removing the clutch which is a bonus but requires a BL tool to get it off. Hopefully it's just a bearing puller/drift as I've plenty of those knocking around.
I'm mechanically competent, a friends just replaced the gearbox on his midget and another's just done the same on an Anglia, so plenty of people to call on.
Grrrr why did I ever get into old cars, this I think will be the final straw.
The bearing itself can be taken off without removing the clutch which is a bonus but requires a BL tool to get it off. Hopefully it's just a bearing puller/drift as I've plenty of those knocking around.
I'm mechanically competent, a friends just replaced the gearbox on his midget and another's just done the same on an Anglia, so plenty of people to call on.
Grrrr why did I ever get into old cars, this I think will be the final straw.
Edited by thisisnotaspoon on Saturday 29th May 18:42
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