Type 9 gearbox

[jonamacg83]

Does anyone know how to adjust the Type 9 gearbox - at the moment its impossible to change gear quickly (or indeed anything other than very slowly) with crunching the gears badly. My first thoughts were that the clutch might not be fully disengaging but I don't think that's the case. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Jonny

[callyman]

jonamacg83 said:

Does anyone know how to adjust the Type 9 gearbox - at the moment its impossible to change gear quickly (or indeed anything other than very slowly) with crunching the gears badly. My first thoughts were that the clutch might not be fully disengaging but I don't think that's the case. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Jonny

Does doubling the clutch help? Could be low oil level/needs changing.

[Justin S]

You have got the correct oil in the box. I believe it is ATF, not a hypoid?

[perdu]

I think the oil matters a lot with the type 9

I may try ATF with my next one

I'm just about to fit the third one in my Midget, the previous holders of the task were not up to it when using Ford's special oily slurrup, leaked out every where

But I find they do get "baulky" in use, after their usual long life in the donor cars too

[Jerkins]

The Type 9 doesn't appreciate fast gear changes - the baulk rings can break if the driver is 'enthusiastic'.

[taz turbo]

ATF in a type 9 is a no no.

See here http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Chris.

[perdu]

taz turbo said:

ATF in a type 9 is a no no.

See here http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Chris.

Thanks for a very timely warning Chris

Back to the Ford stuff then

[Justin S]

As I wrote on the last one, It is an ATF type oil and I used stuff made by Comma and was bright red, Worked a treat, even if it was for only 185bhp................. I would have a look at Opie Oils and see what they recommend.
http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/kitcar/kb.php?aid=... see here............
http://www.burtonpower.com/technical_1/type_9_gear... and here.........
for sale here
http://camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b79s4411...

Edited by Justin S on Wednesday 15th September 22:36

[Simon says]

Castrol SMX was all the range in the Type 9 in its heyday seen here http://www.nielsencdg.co.uk/acatalog/Castrol_SMX-S... Ford also produced there own oil for the application too people always presume incorrectly that if the oil is red its ATF/D11/D111 oil not always the case.

Edited by Simon says on Wednesday 15th September 22:49

[Incorrigible]

Another vote for SMX, although if it's not for all out race use a GL4 85/90 should be fine. The advice "don't use a gear oil" is because of GL5 additives which can attack the yellow metals. Earlier gear oil spec GL4 is fine

Although FWIW I think your synchros are probably on their way out

[jonamacg83]

All useful information, thanks very much. It is used for full race use, and I didn't know if it was a characteristic of the Type 9 or if there was a problem with it - seems its a characteristic of it so may just have to put up with it for now.

Jonny

[Paul.B]

If the car is used for full on racing then it may be time to bite the bullet and invest in a Quaffe box with straight cut gears and Dog engagement. Not cheap but the right tool for the job.

[Kevp]

Paul.B said:

If the car is used for full on racing then it may be time to bite the bullet and invest in a Quaffe box with straight cut gears and Dog engagement. Not cheap but the right tool for the job.

Depends on the class regs. Maybe only able to change ratios, if that.

I swapped from a new standard T9, that was terrible on down changes (& rubbish gears) to an Xtrac unit. The Xtrac was noisy, but with standard cut gears of better ratios. Fantastic box & £150 to strip/rebuild (includes seals but not expensive bits) at the end of the season.

[Paul.B]

Kevp said:

Paul.B said:

If the car is used for full on racing then it may be time to bite the bullet and invest in a Quaffe box with straight cut gears and Dog engagement. Not cheap but the right tool for the job.

Depends on the class regs. Maybe only able to change ratios, if that.

I swapped from a new standard T9, that was terrible on down changes (& rubbish gears) to an Xtrac unit. The Xtrac was noisy, but with standard cut gears of better ratios. Fantastic box & £150 to strip/rebuild (includes seals but not expensive bits) at the end of the season.

Fair enough. I didn't consider class regs only allowing limited choice.

[A.J.M]

Does anyone have/know of a breakdown guide on how to rebuild a type 9?

The kitcar has a type 9 but its hard to select 1st and 2nd but the rest of the gears are fine.
Replaced it with a spare box which is somehow even worse. So looking to get the first one rebuild.

Dont need a full race unit as its only for road use.

[Paul.B]

Are you using a remote linkage? It may be that and not the 'boxes that are the issue?

[Justin S]

A.J.M said:

Does anyone have/know of a breakdown guide on how to rebuild a type 9?

The kitcar has a type 9 but its hard to select 1st and 2nd but the rest of the gears are fine.
Replaced it with a spare box which is somehow even worse. So looking to get the first one rebuild.

Dont need a full race unit as its only for road use.

Is the baulkiness worse when cold or bad all the time?

[A.J.M]

Justin S said:

A.J.M said:

Does anyone have/know of a breakdown guide on how to rebuild a type 9?

The kitcar has a type 9 but its hard to select 1st and 2nd but the rest of the gears are fine.
Replaced it with a spare box which is somehow even worse. So looking to get the first one rebuild.

Dont need a full race unit as its only for road use.

Is the baulkiness worse when cold or bad all the time?

Poor all the time, really hard to select gears when stopped at traffic lights.

Uncle can rebuild the gearbox but need a breakdown of the box so he can work through it.
Also a rough idea of whats likely went wrong/worn out.

[perdu]

A.J.M said:

Justin S said:

A.J.M said:

Does anyone have/know of a breakdown guide on how to rebuild a type 9?

The kitcar has a type 9 but its hard to select 1st and 2nd but the rest of the gears are fine.
Replaced it with a spare box which is somehow even worse. So looking to get the first one rebuild.

Dont need a full race unit as its only for road use.

Is the baulkiness worse when cold or bad all the time?

Poor all the time, really hard to select gears when stopped at traffic lights.

Uncle can rebuild the gearbox but need a breakdown of the box so he can work through it.
Also a rough idea of whats likely went wrong/worn out.

Dont go thinking I'm taking the pee (I'm not) but the Haynes Sierra manual does have a very good "break it down" section in it for the type 9s (there are more than one type of type9 hanging around)

I have two, which have the filler plugs in the side of the box at different heights, one a full inch (and a bit) lower than the other.

There's also a German manual around on t'internet but I'm afraid that I lost loads of data in a hard drive "incident" so I can't look it up for you

hope this helps a bit

[jonamacg83]

Paul.B said:

If the car is used for full on racing then it may be time to bite the bullet and invest in a Quaffe box with straight cut gears and Dog engagement. Not cheap but the right tool for the job.

Unfortunately this might just be the case, I am looking at the most 'cost effective' way of getting round this, but to be honest I can't get over how bad the gearchange actually is.

I am sure there are quite a few options available from Hewland, Quaife, TranX etc etc, just trying to find the best one.