Discussion
I have a small metal pipe that fits snugly into a aluminium plenum, the pipe is a water feed to heat the choke. The pipe is pressed in at the factory but has worked loose over time, so about 6 months ago I super glued it back into place. Unfortunately when I opened the car up the other day said pipe blew out of the plenum.
Question - What would be the best way to permenantly fix the problem, tig weld (something that's been suggested by another person) is this right? or should I find someone mobile to tap and thread the hole and bolt in a similar fitting?
TIA
Question - What would be the best way to permenantly fix the problem, tig weld (something that's been suggested by another person) is this right? or should I find someone mobile to tap and thread the hole and bolt in a similar fitting?
TIA
if the pipe is also alluminium, it could be welded to the ally manifold. However, the pipe is almost certainly plated steel, so it cannot (easily) be welded to the ally manifold!
I would tap the hole and use a simple screw in "fir tree" fitting (made of brass or ally)to take the rubber hose.
eg
I would tap the hole and use a simple screw in "fir tree" fitting (made of brass or ally)to take the rubber hose.
eg
Edited by anonymous-user on Friday 29th October 22:38
If it's a thin walled steel/brass/monkey metal tube, then the following will provide a permanent repair.
Clean off all traces of the super glue, then rough the tube and hole with a needle file, then put only the part of the tube that fits in the hole into a vice and squash it slightly to make it oval, so that force will be needed to push it into the hole.
File a small taper onto the end of the tube to help starting to push it into the hole, then coat the tube end (not the hole) with araldite and tap it in with a small tack hammer or similar.
I have done this many times over the years with total success
Clean off all traces of the super glue, then rough the tube and hole with a needle file, then put only the part of the tube that fits in the hole into a vice and squash it slightly to make it oval, so that force will be needed to push it into the hole.
File a small taper onto the end of the tube to help starting to push it into the hole, then coat the tube end (not the hole) with araldite and tap it in with a small tack hammer or similar.
I have done this many times over the years with total success
Araldite method works for me.
I've also used fibre glass resin when desperate. I've fixed a holed sump with it (middle of Dartmoor don't ask)
3 years later when I had the sump off for another job I thought I'd clean the resin off and braze it. Bugger me it was so solid I could not shift it, so left it filled with resin.
I've also used fibre glass resin when desperate. I've fixed a holed sump with it (middle of Dartmoor don't ask)
3 years later when I had the sump off for another job I thought I'd clean the resin off and braze it. Bugger me it was so solid I could not shift it, so left it filled with resin.
A third vote for araldite. It needs a fairly large tapped hole to take a threaded fitting with the same i/d and water supply capacity as the thin walled steel tubing fitted as standard. If there's room for such, and all the drilling, tapping and dealing with the consequent swarf created getting inside the manifold then fine but it wouldn't be my first choice.
As you've been told just make sure the surfaces have a good key for the araldite to adhere to i.e. a good roughing with coarse emery first and then burr the outside of the tube by tapping it gently all round with the sharp edge of a small flat file or knife so it takes a bit of force to press it home and gives the araldite somewhere to key into.
If you tap at about 45 degrees towards the fitted end of the tube you'll raise little "shark's teeth" burrs just a thou or two high which will create a tight fit when pressing the tube home and resist coming back out the other way. I'm not sure I'd go as far as squashing the tube oval which seems somewhat self defeating if the aim is a water tight seal but the above technique is what to use to fit even quite critical components like valve guides where the OE fit is poor or there is wear in the guide bore. Add a smear of Loctite retainer before fitting the valve guide and they're in for good.
As you've been told just make sure the surfaces have a good key for the araldite to adhere to i.e. a good roughing with coarse emery first and then burr the outside of the tube by tapping it gently all round with the sharp edge of a small flat file or knife so it takes a bit of force to press it home and gives the araldite somewhere to key into.
If you tap at about 45 degrees towards the fitted end of the tube you'll raise little "shark's teeth" burrs just a thou or two high which will create a tight fit when pressing the tube home and resist coming back out the other way. I'm not sure I'd go as far as squashing the tube oval which seems somewhat self defeating if the aim is a water tight seal but the above technique is what to use to fit even quite critical components like valve guides where the OE fit is poor or there is wear in the guide bore. Add a smear of Loctite retainer before fitting the valve guide and they're in for good.
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