Removing the head, advice and tips?
Removing the head, advice and tips?
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Discussion

Acheron

Original Poster:

643 posts

188 months

Friday 31st December 2010
quotequote all
Bought a banger, smoking, possibly cracked head or gasket gone. Z22se engine in a 2000 2.2 Petrol Vectra.

Anyway, never done this kid of thing before and bought it as a cheap challenge.

Ive got the cam cover off, various cosmetic bits and pieces too. Im bagging up my bolts and nuts and labelling them with location and type. Also taking photos.

Using a Haynes manual as a guide too. I know i need to still dump the coolant out, remove the pas pump and mark the camshaft sprockets and the chain, cable tie the chain to the sprockets and get #1 to TDC, along with manifolds too. Do i need to depressurize the fuel system?

One bugging question, do i have to remove the cams, valves, lifters etc or can i just take the head off as a complete unit with all the cams and stuff present? I know if its cracked an engineerg firm will want it all stripped i guess but what about the current situation?

Sam_68

9,939 posts

269 months

Friday 31st December 2010
quotequote all
DISCLAIMER: I've never dismantled that particular Vauxhall engine, but...

You can usually take cylinder heads off with the cams and valvetrain components in situ.

Find TDC before you start dismantling everything, and try to keep it there (ie. engine in gear).

I'm not totally convinced it makes a lot of difference, but good practice is also that you should slacken the head retaining bolts in the reverse diagonal order that they should be torqued up (ie. starting at outside, diagonally opposing corners and working in).

Acheron

Original Poster:

643 posts

188 months

Saturday 1st January 2011
quotequote all
Sam_68 said:
DISCLAIMER: I've never dismantled that particular Vauxhall engine, but...

You can usually take cylinder heads off with the cams and valvetrain components in situ.

Find TDC before you start dismantling everything, and try to keep it there (ie. engine in gear).

I'm not totally convinced it makes a lot of difference, but good practice is also that you should slacken the head retaining bolts in the reverse diagonal order that they should be torqued up (ie. starting at outside, diagonally opposing corners and working in).
Yeah, ive got the order they need to come off. The hardest job at the moment looks like the removal of the inlet manifold with all the fuel rail and stuff :S

heebeegeetee

29,878 posts

272 months

Tuesday 4th January 2011
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Sam_68 said:
Find TDC before you start dismantling everything, and try to keep it there (ie. engine in gear).
Wouldn't he best off with the car out of gear? If the car is lent on in gear with no compression (plugs out or the head is off etc), and the handbrake is not on, the engine will turn.

spenny_b

1,071 posts

267 months

Thursday 6th January 2011
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Was going to say if putting in gear, also put handbrake on. TBH, finding TDC again on a stock engine can be done accurately enough using the crank pulley markers

(another disclaimer, not worked on this lump either)