Really need some help/advice
Discussion
Was stuck in traffic on the way home from work tonight and noticed that the temp gauge was bouncing off the red line.
Thankfully the traffic didn't last too long and the temperature dropped as I hit open road. However, once on the drive with the engine off it was impossible to open the bonnet due to the volume of steam belching out from the engine bay. I left it to cool but on further inspection the whole area around the timing belt is covered in a white residue which also seems to have been spread around by the various belts.
I topped up the header tank and let it settle before turning the engine over. After about 2 minutes of running I could see sprays of water and a river coming out from under the car which was relative to the coolant level dropping.
I have checked the header tank and taken the oil filler cap off and can see no residue that may point to a head gasket failure. My conclusion is that the water pump has had it, even though it was only replaced about 10,000 miles ago, not great news on a £400 shed. Does this sound feasible?
I don't have the money to replace the car nor pay out for the garage to replace the timing belt and pump (was around £300 last time IIRC). I've also never changed a timing belt before through fear of the damage that could be done if the job is messed up. How difficult a job is this and am I panicking for no reason. I can get the parts from Euro Car Parts for £115 but is it worth the risk as I can't afford to be without a car.
It may be a long shot but is there anyone in the Woking area that would consider helping out for a bit of cash or a couple of beers.
Cheers
Olly
Thankfully the traffic didn't last too long and the temperature dropped as I hit open road. However, once on the drive with the engine off it was impossible to open the bonnet due to the volume of steam belching out from the engine bay. I left it to cool but on further inspection the whole area around the timing belt is covered in a white residue which also seems to have been spread around by the various belts.
I topped up the header tank and let it settle before turning the engine over. After about 2 minutes of running I could see sprays of water and a river coming out from under the car which was relative to the coolant level dropping.
I have checked the header tank and taken the oil filler cap off and can see no residue that may point to a head gasket failure. My conclusion is that the water pump has had it, even though it was only replaced about 10,000 miles ago, not great news on a £400 shed. Does this sound feasible?
I don't have the money to replace the car nor pay out for the garage to replace the timing belt and pump (was around £300 last time IIRC). I've also never changed a timing belt before through fear of the damage that could be done if the job is messed up. How difficult a job is this and am I panicking for no reason. I can get the parts from Euro Car Parts for £115 but is it worth the risk as I can't afford to be without a car.
It may be a long shot but is there anyone in the Woking area that would consider helping out for a bit of cash or a couple of beers.
Cheers
Olly
Muncle Trogg said:
I've also never changed a timing belt before through fear of the damage that could be done if the job is messed up. How difficult a job is this and am I panicking for no reason. I can get the parts from Euro Car Parts for £115 but is it worth the risk as I can't afford to be without a car.
If you're planning to change it yourself, just turn the engine over by hand before trying to start it to make sure you havn't misalligned the timing belt, and you won't damage anything.Egg Chaser said:
If you're planning to change it yourself, just turn the engine over by hand before trying to start it to make sure you havn't misalligned the timing belt, and you won't damage anything.
Thanks. Really basic question but would I be looking for alignment on the tensioner/wheels or with the TDC mark? Hi not that I'm trying to put you off changing your cambelt/waterpump but the bottom pulley has no woodruff key!!!
They rely on a timing pin for the crank there should be a t50 at the front of your engine nearest the flywheel.
The cams are timed by removing the two rubber core plugs in the end of the head nearest the g box.
They rely on a timing pin for the crank there should be a t50 at the front of your engine nearest the flywheel.
The cams are timed by removing the two rubber core plugs in the end of the head nearest the g box.
adam1984 said:
Hi not that I'm trying to put you off changing your cambelt/waterpump but the bottom pulley has no woodruff key!!!
They rely on a timing pin for the crank there should be a t50 at the front of your engine nearest the flywheel.
The cams are timed by removing the two rubber core plugs in the end of the head nearest the g box.
Thanks AdamThey rely on a timing pin for the crank there should be a t50 at the front of your engine nearest the flywheel.
The cams are timed by removing the two rubber core plugs in the end of the head nearest the g box.
I assume that this is not a job for an unsupervised amateur then?!
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