Piston Ring File
Discussion
stevieturbo said:
The clue is in the word "file"
And the fact the rings are made of metal.
In short, any good sharp clean metal file will do. Best to use a nice new one, and only use inward strokes. With a very light clean to ensure no sharp edges left.
Go easy though, take a bit off at a time.
Hi. thanks, yes I'm aware of being able to do this with a flat file in a vice, but on this job I would prefer to use a proper piston file to minimise any space for error.And the fact the rings are made of metal.
In short, any good sharp clean metal file will do. Best to use a nice new one, and only use inward strokes. With a very light clean to ensure no sharp edges left.
Go easy though, take a bit off at a time.
JakesterUK said:
Hi. thanks, yes I'm aware of being able to do this with a flat file in a vice, but on this job I would prefer to use a proper piston file to minimise any space for error.
I certainly would never suggest clamping rings in a vice.Simply set the ring on a flat bench, with the gap sitting over the edge to allow you to file it, and hold that end of the ring with your thumb as you file. It's relatively easy, and you can get a good feel of how much you are removing, as long as it is a good file.
JakesterUK said:
I need a piston ring file as I'm building an engine for a pals Mustang and its got file fit pistons, can anyone recommend anywhere in the UK that stocks/sells them, I've had a google about but am coming up blank.
Thanks
Airtoolservices UK supplied mine.Thanks
Aero industry stuff thats a bit on the pricey side,although top notch gear.
It`s the only place I`ve ever found one in the UK.
stevieturbo said:
I certainly would never suggest clamping rings in a vice.
Simply set the ring on a flat bench, with the gap sitting over the edge to allow you to file it, and hold that end of the ring with your thumb as you file. It's relatively easy, and you can get a good feel of how much you are removing, as long as it is a good file.
No the method I mean is to clamp the file in the vice as this ensures you keep a level 'grind' so to speakSimply set the ring on a flat bench, with the gap sitting over the edge to allow you to file it, and hold that end of the ring with your thumb as you file. It's relatively easy, and you can get a good feel of how much you are removing, as long as it is a good file.
Nice little home made ring grinder here.
http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/75w_newring...
Yes you can file rings with an actual old skool steel file if you really have to but with chrome or other hard facing plated rings it's better to use an abrasive disc as chrome is much harder than a file. However diamond coated files are really cheap these days and mucho better than steel files for such jobs or in fact any other job. I use a diamond coated grinding wheel for reshaping and sharpening my carbide lathe and mill tooling and it's an absolute godsend. I can grind any amount off rock hard carbide inserts and the diamond wheel never shows any sign of wear. 20 years ago diamond tooling was like unobtanium but nowadays it's cheap as chips.
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Diamond-To...
The 6 inch flat file looks just the job.
7 quid isn't going to break the bank and a diamond file will cut through chrome or any other hard coating as easily as the base steel or cast iron of the ring.
Always grind or file inwards away from the o/d of the ring so as not to chip any coating off.
If using an actual file pull off the wooden handle if fitted and grip it in a bench vice with the handle end pointing away from you. Then file the gaps by pushing the ring down the file away from you. You can actually squeeze the ring so both sides of the gap touch both sides of the file if it's a nice slim file. Push down, file a bit off, relax the pressure, draw back, repeat. Keep measuring the gap in the cylinder bore and keep checking that the ring ends are parallel.
It's still a PITA job whichever way you slice it though and will take several hours.
http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/75w_newring...
Yes you can file rings with an actual old skool steel file if you really have to but with chrome or other hard facing plated rings it's better to use an abrasive disc as chrome is much harder than a file. However diamond coated files are really cheap these days and mucho better than steel files for such jobs or in fact any other job. I use a diamond coated grinding wheel for reshaping and sharpening my carbide lathe and mill tooling and it's an absolute godsend. I can grind any amount off rock hard carbide inserts and the diamond wheel never shows any sign of wear. 20 years ago diamond tooling was like unobtanium but nowadays it's cheap as chips.
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Diamond-To...
The 6 inch flat file looks just the job.
7 quid isn't going to break the bank and a diamond file will cut through chrome or any other hard coating as easily as the base steel or cast iron of the ring.
Always grind or file inwards away from the o/d of the ring so as not to chip any coating off.
If using an actual file pull off the wooden handle if fitted and grip it in a bench vice with the handle end pointing away from you. Then file the gaps by pushing the ring down the file away from you. You can actually squeeze the ring so both sides of the gap touch both sides of the file if it's a nice slim file. Push down, file a bit off, relax the pressure, draw back, repeat. Keep measuring the gap in the cylinder bore and keep checking that the ring ends are parallel.
It's still a PITA job whichever way you slice it though and will take several hours.
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