Mechanic/trader help.
Discussion
Behold81 said:
I can't get gates in the length I need. Although I need toremeasure as I lost the old measurements. I want to say 1665 with no more than 5mm rather way.
The wider you go, the more you will struggle with belt availability.Have you contacted Hayley Bearings or Erik's ?
Places like that ( ie Industrial power transmission ) have good access to belts and can usually get them cut from sleeves, so far better access to the width you want in any length.
65.5" or 1665mm sounds pretty long though, I dont think I ever used that long on mine ?
Dont forget when you tension the belt it will stretch too and you never want a scenario where the belt can touch itself at under the idler pulley
Behold81 said:
I can't get gates in the length I need. Although I need toremeasure as I lost the old measurements. I want to say 1665 with no more than 5mm rather way.
There seems to be a number of us in the States at the moment, if you can let me have the correct numbers, I will see what I can do. I return Wednesday morning, so would need to procure Monday or Tuesday.gsd2000 said:
How wide is the 12 rib belt?
Approx 43mm Part number for a 12 rib in the US will probably be something like K120655 ( if a belt exists that length )
ie 12 rib and 65.5" long
Certainly 10-ribs are common that size in the US
Or UK
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GATES-10pk-1670-ES-10PK1...
or slightly shorter
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GATES-10pk-1628-ES-10PK1...
Or 12 rib 1630mm in UK
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GATES-ES-MICRO-V-MULTI-R...
Behold81 said:
I get it will stretch. I'm trying to miss the PAS nose so there is a minimum length required. The maximum is workable a little. I'll dig out my test belt today and measure it again. I had it on my phone till it crashed and I lost it.
When I had the steel pulley, I just ground a little off the nose.But when shorter belts were used and the belt passed in front of it, it was literally skimming the pulley. But it never presented a problem running it that way
OK found my test belt and it still was marked up.
1650 is the ideal 1640 will put it tight to the PAS nose but ok. 1660 puts me close to touching.
Both the low and high have a bit of room for a belt stretch or over tighten where needed.
its an odd size.
My other option is to make up an alternator bracket and pulley and then I can tune the length with a second idler. Personally I would like an auto tensioning idler but hey can't have everything!
1650 is the ideal 1640 will put it tight to the PAS nose but ok. 1660 puts me close to touching.
Both the low and high have a bit of room for a belt stretch or over tighten where needed.
its an odd size.
My other option is to make up an alternator bracket and pulley and then I can tune the length with a second idler. Personally I would like an auto tensioning idler but hey can't have everything!
stevieturbo said:
When I had the steel pulley, I just ground a little off the nose.
But when shorter belts were used and the belt passed in front of it, it was literally skimming the pulley. But it never presented a problem running it that way
Did you go over the PAS nose or under? where I have a longer tensioner bracket its easy to go below it and even with slack it will not hit due to the angle.But when shorter belts were used and the belt passed in front of it, it was literally skimming the pulley. But it never presented a problem running it that way
Behold81 said:
Did you go over the PAS nose or under? where I have a longer tensioner bracket its easy to go below it and even with slack it will not hit due to the angle.
I've ran directly in front of and underneath the PAS nose. As said, even when running directly in front of it, barely a hair away it never caused any issues.It's also easy make a plate and add an idler in front of the alternator. This makes sense to do regardless to help prevent belt orbiting.
And any spring tensioner would replace the normal manual tensioner. Apparently CAPA do offer a spring tensioner and you can see it on some of Marks Workshop stuff.
I just adapted something myself.
Behold81 said:
Oh. and I have more room going longer than shorter. I think I looked at the 1660 gatorback. I can move the tensioner pulley closer or further from the charger so the likely hood of it touching under idle or load is less due to where it sits.
Playing with the tensioner/idler position can help, just ensure bracket is sturdy enough not to flex or bend if you do move it further awaystevieturbo said:
Playing with the tensioner/idler position can help, just ensure bracket is sturdy enough not to flex or bend if you do move it further away
My new plate was made with more material to add strength not seen a flex on this. more flex in the main bracket!My other option is just run 10 rib. seems like a waste though! and should need less tension on 12 rib minimising belt skip under high load. (this is where an auto tensioner would help)
What did you do for an auto tensioner in the end. not sure I saw the finished pic. Also Do you still have your alternator bracket? do you still need it.......
Behold81 said:
My new plate was made with more material to add strength not seen a flex on this. more flex in the main bracket!
My other option is just run 10 rib. seems like a waste though! and should need less tension on 12 rib minimising belt skip under high load. (this is where an auto tensioner would help)
What did you do for an auto tensioner in the end. not sure I saw the finished pic. Also Do you still have your alternator bracket? do you still need it.......
Can't find any pics ! lol I know I took some though.My other option is just run 10 rib. seems like a waste though! and should need less tension on 12 rib minimising belt skip under high load. (this is where an auto tensioner would help)
What did you do for an auto tensioner in the end. not sure I saw the finished pic. Also Do you still have your alternator bracket? do you still need it.......
I got a 6mm stainless plate to mirror the original bracket, spaced out 6mm from the blower via another small plate. So when bolted to the blower and the original plate via spacing posts, this also helps make the entire setup more rigid.
The plate did extend upwards near the blower to allow the mounting of the tensioner
Tensioner was some Cummins diesel item I bought of egay and adapted. I needed to mount my own idler to this. But really, I'd just be looking to mirror or copy the 2010 Camaro stuff. Just google for their blower kits and you can see the tensioner setup they use.
All the brands use a similar setup, Vortech, Paxton, Procharger, so there will be a few tensioners you could just buy. You just need to add a base bracket to mount them too.
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