Oil spots on the driveway?
Discussion
Quite an oil patch actually if you add the oils spots up under the diff. Is this normal? I've put some links to pics I have taken if it helps.
(Sorry about the lack of focus on the last one)
www.fenderboy.demon.co.uk/DSCN0894.JPG
www.fenderboy.demon.co.uk/DSCN0895.JPG
www.fenderboy.demon.co.uk/DSCN0898.JPG
(Sorry about the lack of focus on the last one)
www.fenderboy.demon.co.uk/DSCN0894.JPG
www.fenderboy.demon.co.uk/DSCN0895.JPG
www.fenderboy.demon.co.uk/DSCN0898.JPG
Hey Booster.
Looking at the DSCN0895.JPG pic it looks more like the oil is weaping from the diff drain plug rather than the gaskett. Make sure it's done up tight.
Suggestion. Clean the diff as best you can and put an oil pan (or similar) under the diff & leave overnight. In the morning have a look at the diff. If the dripping has continued you should be able to see the source. Currently there's too much oil covering it up.
As it's still under warranty, I'd also get it checked out anyway to be safe.
I'd also recommend that you get the diff oil topped up. You've only got 1.7litres to start with and it appears that you've left quite a bit of it on your drive, exhaust, diff, and no doubt everywhere you've been driving.
Hope it helps.
Looking at the DSCN0895.JPG pic it looks more like the oil is weaping from the diff drain plug rather than the gaskett. Make sure it's done up tight.
Suggestion. Clean the diff as best you can and put an oil pan (or similar) under the diff & leave overnight. In the morning have a look at the diff. If the dripping has continued you should be able to see the source. Currently there's too much oil covering it up.
As it's still under warranty, I'd also get it checked out anyway to be safe.
I'd also recommend that you get the diff oil topped up. You've only got 1.7litres to start with and it appears that you've left quite a bit of it on your drive, exhaust, diff, and no doubt everywhere you've been driving.
Hope it helps.
Depends on what's already in the diff and what they intend to top it up with. BTR & LSV recommend Morris Lodexol 80W/140. I've put the XFS (Fully Synth) in to mine last Sunday and it's worked like a charm. No modifier or anything such like.
www.morrislubricants.co.uk/productinfo.asp?v06c41q7p6=EKJ
I have no idea what Vauxhall are using. Would be nice to find out though.
Full oil change will take 1.7 litres.
www.morrislubricants.co.uk/productinfo.asp?v06c41q7p6=EKJ
I have no idea what Vauxhall are using. Would be nice to find out though.
Full oil change will take 1.7 litres.
A VERY subjective topic and I know all too well. I spent 3 months researching oils and came out a wiser man.
<a href="www.hsv.org.uk/topic.asp?t=156936&f=69">www.hsv.org.uk/topic.asp?t=156936&f=69</a>
Last Sunday I used:
Engine: Havoline 5w-40 Fully Synthetic - £25.25 for 5litres
GearBox: GM Synchromesh (Pure magic in a bottle if you ask me) - Approx £60
Diff: Morris Lodexol XFS 80w-140 (Hassle free) - Approx £40
Red Line, Royal Purple, etc are extremely good oils, but as I'm sure Jagsy & others will tell you it's an art to get the right amount of modifier. I didn't have this problem with the morris oil. I just put it in and forgot abut it. Others owners use different oils.
Here's Jagsy's tail of Redline in the diff:
www.hsv.org.uk/topic.asp?t=133748&f=69
A57_HSV also uses the the Morris Oil and hasn't had any issues either.
I have to admit that after changing all the oils the car is massively better. Just got the clutch & break fluids to change, but I think it'll go to Picador's for that so they can change the 2 front belts at the same time.
Technically, you only need to change the diff & gearbox oils every 24months and the engine oil every 6months or 6,000 miles (which ever is sooner).
>> Edited by comm_SS_V8 on Saturday 14th May 00:10
>> Edited by comm_SS_V8 on Saturday 14th May 00:11
<a href="www.hsv.org.uk/topic.asp?t=156936&f=69">www.hsv.org.uk/topic.asp?t=156936&f=69</a>
Last Sunday I used:
Engine: Havoline 5w-40 Fully Synthetic - £25.25 for 5litres
GearBox: GM Synchromesh (Pure magic in a bottle if you ask me) - Approx £60
Diff: Morris Lodexol XFS 80w-140 (Hassle free) - Approx £40
Red Line, Royal Purple, etc are extremely good oils, but as I'm sure Jagsy & others will tell you it's an art to get the right amount of modifier. I didn't have this problem with the morris oil. I just put it in and forgot abut it. Others owners use different oils.
Here's Jagsy's tail of Redline in the diff:
www.hsv.org.uk/topic.asp?t=133748&f=69
A57_HSV also uses the the Morris Oil and hasn't had any issues either.
I have to admit that after changing all the oils the car is massively better. Just got the clutch & break fluids to change, but I think it'll go to Picador's for that so they can change the 2 front belts at the same time.
Technically, you only need to change the diff & gearbox oils every 24months and the engine oil every 6months or 6,000 miles (which ever is sooner).
>> Edited by comm_SS_V8 on Saturday 14th May 00:10
>> Edited by comm_SS_V8 on Saturday 14th May 00:11
Engine oil is very hard to tell the difference between types without analising for ware etc.....
Gearbox oil is easier to feel the difference. I have use a few types over the years with my HSV and the best by a very long way is "Red line".
The gearbox shifts into all gears from cold and it reduces gear chater by about 90%.
The perfect condition for the rear diff is for it to lock up all the time (wheels always spin together) but this makes the diff clank like a race car so is not exceptiable on a road car!
With standard diff oil the modifier is in the oil already and in 99% of cases it has to much, and the diff does not lock up properly, but as a customer you dont notice as it makes no noise so it is fine.
But when the correct amount of friction modifier is added to a product which does not have it to start with you can get the perfect amount of slip/lockup.
When you get it right the traction is sooooooo much better, as a lot of HSV drivers now know
An added bonus from using a good oil is you reduce drive train losses so you get more BHP, in tests Red Line oil produced a 5+ bhp gain..............
Gearbox oil is easier to feel the difference. I have use a few types over the years with my HSV and the best by a very long way is "Red line".
The gearbox shifts into all gears from cold and it reduces gear chater by about 90%.
The perfect condition for the rear diff is for it to lock up all the time (wheels always spin together) but this makes the diff clank like a race car so is not exceptiable on a road car!
With standard diff oil the modifier is in the oil already and in 99% of cases it has to much, and the diff does not lock up properly, but as a customer you dont notice as it makes no noise so it is fine.
But when the correct amount of friction modifier is added to a product which does not have it to start with you can get the perfect amount of slip/lockup.
When you get it right the traction is sooooooo much better, as a lot of HSV drivers now know
An added bonus from using a good oil is you reduce drive train losses so you get more BHP, in tests Red Line oil produced a 5+ bhp gain..............
A lower diff is normaly the first thing the Australian guys do after a good tune............
"motomk" will give you the low down on diff's.........
As and when we get a supplier in the UK I would say it is a good move for the CV8 owners.........
There are lots of oil products out there and "Red line" is only one of them, as "comm ss v8" has shown you "pay your money and take your choice"
"motomk" will give you the low down on diff's.........
As and when we get a supplier in the UK I would say it is a good move for the CV8 owners.........
There are lots of oil products out there and "Red line" is only one of them, as "comm ss v8" has shown you "pay your money and take your choice"
[quote]A lower diff is normaly the first thing the Australian guys do after a good tune............
"motomk" will give you the low down on diff's.........
As and when we get a supplier in the UK I would say it is a good move for the CV8 owners.........
[/quote]
Oh damn...that's me...but I'm a bunny when it comes to mechanics!
3.73 diffs (stock in a HSV Manual-UK spec GTS)) diff into Auto's which you wouldn't have many of I guess.
3.9's (stock in the UK spec GTS-R)into the manuals...probably might not be worth it in the 2005 Monaro cars if they have the revised gearboxes in them. Makes first gear very short though but a lot of fun!!!!
I have 3.9's in my VY II SV8 (poor mans SS sedan) It is like having 2 gearboxes!! 1-4 is the fun part 5-6 is the freeway (motorway) cruise part! 1800-1900rpm at 100kmh.
motomk
"motomk" will give you the low down on diff's.........
As and when we get a supplier in the UK I would say it is a good move for the CV8 owners.........
[/quote]
Oh damn...that's me...but I'm a bunny when it comes to mechanics!
3.73 diffs (stock in a HSV Manual-UK spec GTS)) diff into Auto's which you wouldn't have many of I guess.
3.9's (stock in the UK spec GTS-R)into the manuals...probably might not be worth it in the 2005 Monaro cars if they have the revised gearboxes in them. Makes first gear very short though but a lot of fun!!!!
I have 3.9's in my VY II SV8 (poor mans SS sedan) It is like having 2 gearboxes!! 1-4 is the fun part 5-6 is the freeway (motorway) cruise part! 1800-1900rpm at 100kmh.
motomk
Hi Motomk
what would you recommend for an 04 CV8 monaro that has had 300kw tune(and brake upgrade)? The 3.9 sounds interesting - If I undrstand this correctly (I am a novice) gears 1 - 4 would provide ballistic acceleration and a more immediate 'launch' whilst keeping gears 5 & 6 sensible for great cruising which these cars seem to be good at as well!
what would you recommend for an 04 CV8 monaro that has had 300kw tune(and brake upgrade)? The 3.9 sounds interesting - If I undrstand this correctly (I am a novice) gears 1 - 4 would provide ballistic acceleration and a more immediate 'launch' whilst keeping gears 5 & 6 sensible for great cruising which these cars seem to be good at as well!
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