Another Clutch question

[pistolpete12]

So.
My monaro is a 5.7 CV8 ls1, with headers intake and a tune

This weekend the monaro did another great job of munching another 600 miles in 48 hours on a mates stag do.
But today it seems the clutch has had enough of clutching
It doesn't slip.. It has always had a very high clutch, It has an LS7 clutch fitted not too long back (4-5years at a guess) but i think its had a hard life before me
I have changed the fluid several times, but its always been not quite right, can be hard to get into gear
Today on the way to work, pedal goes to the flor and wouldn't disengage the clutch, managed to get it out of gear, ended up coasting to a safe point, gave it a minute, the clutch came back only for a couple of mins then couldn't select gears, keeps going to the floor.
So could well be master cylinder? thoughts? and I've always had an issue with it

I'm thinking i should change the master cylinder, clutch flywheel slave cylinder and not get an LS7
Last time i spoke with LSperformace he did say they were having issues with LS7 clutches now being unreliable, last year sometime when it was doing similar.
I would change fluid and it would be better. but I just need to sort this out as I can't rely on it.

Why are the clutch kits so expensive for what is essentially a fairly generic engine and box set up? xtreme stockish clutch is £1187 in the UK

I have found people talking about the LUK clutch? LUK 04-905
which i have found quite a few clutches on summit racing. and rock auto
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/luk,04905,clutch...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/luk-04-905?srsl...

these worth looking at? anyone know what it cost to get over here

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
What are peoples experiences

thanks

[pistolpete12]

Could it just be the master?
Are they known to fail, it does seem more hydraulic than the clutch itself..

It doesn't slip, I just have the pedal hit the floor and stay there, which i have had several times in the last couple of years then it seems to sort itself out.. especially after changing the fluid

[pistolpete12]

could it just be I have long tube headers (i done 600 miles in it this weekend) and its heating the fluid in the master cylinder, i need to get a heat shield around the master cylinder and change the fluid every 6 months?

[fred bloggs]

If I remember, when I fitted the headers , I had to relocate a bracket that held the clutch flexi hose ,it was way too close to the heat.

[SturdyHSV]

Slaves are more common to fail than the master, and also much cheaper, but a lot more work!!

You could throw a braided clutch line on whilst you're messing about, I made one up with an adapter or two and some AN line.

The LUK kit is the same as the OEM one. Double check the part number (there's a fair few posts on here that mention it.

I would imagine the prices are high for alternatives because anyone looking to not spend too much will just get the LUK kit, it has been so cheap for so long, and it works, excellent driveability, no noise, holds good power and lasts etc.

[Lincsls1]

No, the LUK 04905 is the LS7 clutch kit, not the original one the Monaro comes with.
Heavy isn't it?!
It is listed as a 'heavy duty'clutch under RockAuto listing.

[MK3 Dan]

If you go down the Rock Auto route this may help - enter 298163002250949967 in the 'How did you hear about us' box on Rock Auto for a 5% dscount - think its valid until early May.

Rock Auto charge UK VAT and all the shipping costs etc and don't recall being charged any import duty on items from them recently!

[stevieturbo]

Far more likely to be a slave issue than master.

If there is a rubber type hydraulic line near the slave somewhere and you can clamp it, the pedal should feel solid if master is good and there is no air in the system.

There are a plethora of clutches though, but I see little reason why a bog standard decent quality clutch should not just work fine, if indeed you even need a complete clutch itself.