O2 Sensor wiring diagram or info
Discussion
Gelf the colours are listed in this post -> http://forum.efilive.com/showpost.ph...9&postc...
For details on how I fabbed mine up, see posts #46, #50, #52, #58, #66, #80 in this thread: http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=564&...
LC1-red -> NBO2-D or Switched Battery
LC1-blu -> NBO2-C or Vehicle Ground
LC1-yel -> NBO2-B
LC1-grn -> NBO2-A
LC1-brn -> FlashScan Input +
LC1-wht -> FlashScan Input - and pushbutton/LED cathode(-)
LC1-blk -> pushbutton/LED anode(+)
is yours a six or 7 wire controller (the loose wire end)? If 6 you can try removing some of the rubber shield to expose a non shielded bare wire when you use your bench test you should see this also acts as system (not ground!!!) earth. Basically do all your bench tests with the white system earth then repeat with th bare wire to confirm it works - it will save you splitting the white wire 3 ways.
For details on how I fabbed mine up, see posts #46, #50, #52, #58, #66, #80 in this thread: http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=564&...
LC1-red -> NBO2-D or Switched Battery
LC1-blu -> NBO2-C or Vehicle Ground
LC1-yel -> NBO2-B
LC1-grn -> NBO2-A
LC1-brn -> FlashScan Input +
LC1-wht -> FlashScan Input - and pushbutton/LED cathode(-)
LC1-blk -> pushbutton/LED anode(+)
is yours a six or 7 wire controller (the loose wire end)? If 6 you can try removing some of the rubber shield to expose a non shielded bare wire when you use your bench test you should see this also acts as system (not ground!!!) earth. Basically do all your bench tests with the white system earth then repeat with th bare wire to confirm it works - it will save you splitting the white wire 3 ways.
stigmundfreud said:
Gelf the colours are listed in this post -> http://forum.efilive.com/showpost.ph...9&postc...
For details on how I fabbed mine up, see posts #46, #50, #52, #58, #66, #80 in this thread: http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=564&...
LC1-red -> NBO2-D or Switched Battery
LC1-blu -> NBO2-C or Vehicle Ground
LC1-yel -> NBO2-B
LC1-grn -> NBO2-A
LC1-brn -> FlashScan Input +
LC1-wht -> FlashScan Input - and pushbutton/LED cathode(-)
LC1-blk -> pushbutton/LED anode(+)
is yours a six or 7 wire controller (the loose wire end)? If 6 you can try removing some of the rubber shield to expose a non shielded bare wire when you use your bench test you should see this also acts as system (not ground!!!) earth. Basically do all your bench tests with the white system earth then repeat with th bare wire to confirm it works - it will save you splitting the white wire 3 ways.
Ive got of each !!For details on how I fabbed mine up, see posts #46, #50, #52, #58, #66, #80 in this thread: http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=564&...
LC1-red -> NBO2-D or Switched Battery
LC1-blu -> NBO2-C or Vehicle Ground
LC1-yel -> NBO2-B
LC1-grn -> NBO2-A
LC1-brn -> FlashScan Input +
LC1-wht -> FlashScan Input - and pushbutton/LED cathode(-)
LC1-blk -> pushbutton/LED anode(+)
is yours a six or 7 wire controller (the loose wire end)? If 6 you can try removing some of the rubber shield to expose a non shielded bare wire when you use your bench test you should see this also acts as system (not ground!!!) earth. Basically do all your bench tests with the white system earth then repeat with th bare wire to confirm it works - it will save you splitting the white wire 3 ways.
Why if using the simulated NB output, is the old O2 Sensor retained? to trick the PCM?
Can the O2 Heater + voltage be used as the LC-1 switched live cable? Leave the - voltage connection obselete. All the earths should be routed to the earth cable at the battery and soldered into one big lug, yes?
Can the O2 Heater + voltage be used as the LC-1 switched live cable? Leave the - voltage connection obselete. All the earths should be routed to the earth cable at the battery and soldered into one big lug, yes?
if you are simulating NB you ditch the old ones (keep as spare)
The beauty of it all is ditching stocks means you can use the PCM loom to provide power and earth rarther than splicing into another switched source such as the accessory plug.
You use the existing bungs rather than welding new ones in too. Everything is taken care of
on your 7 wire one use the instructions as above
on the 6 wire one, strip back a bit of the rubber till you find the spare wire and test it to make sure. If the bare wire is system ground too then simply use that bare wire for the green wire in the above instructions (obviously sheild it as best as possile - heat shrink from maplins = teh win.
I suggest using a fairly messy install at first where by the wires are not 100% tidied away - test for a while then when happy just hide it all - it will make life easier if anything is amiss. I'm away this weekend but back Monday if you want a look.
The beauty of it all is ditching stocks means you can use the PCM loom to provide power and earth rarther than splicing into another switched source such as the accessory plug.
You use the existing bungs rather than welding new ones in too. Everything is taken care of
on your 7 wire one use the instructions as above
on the 6 wire one, strip back a bit of the rubber till you find the spare wire and test it to make sure. If the bare wire is system ground too then simply use that bare wire for the green wire in the above instructions (obviously sheild it as best as possile - heat shrink from maplins = teh win.
I suggest using a fairly messy install at first where by the wires are not 100% tidied away - test for a while then when happy just hide it all - it will make life easier if anything is amiss. I'm away this weekend but back Monday if you want a look.
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