No Electricity!
Discussion
Went to re-commission the VXR 6.0 today after Winter hibernation. The battery was dead....ABSOLUTELY DEAD! No interior immobiliser/alarm lights or anything. I've started it a few times over the Winter, but not driven it. I put the battery on trickle charge at mid-day. It was on for 7 1/2hrs. Only just turned over after, but certainly won't start. Maybe 7 hrs isn't enough on a totally flat battery? Or maybe it's toasted! Just in case I need to get a replacement, can anyone recommend one? I seem to remember a thread saying it's not that easy to find one for some reason?...can't remember why.
Thanks.
skyblue465 said:
Went to re-commission the VXR 6.0 today after Winter hibernation. The battery was dead....ABSOLUTELY DEAD! No interior immobiliser/alarm lights or anything. I've started it a few times over the Winter, but not driven it. I put the battery on trickle charge at mid-day. It was on for 7 1/2hrs. Only just turned over after, but certainly won't start. Maybe 7 hrs isn't enough on a totally flat battery? Or maybe it's toasted! Just in case I need to get a replacement, can anyone recommend one? I seem to remember a thread saying it's not that easy to find one for some reason?...can't remember why.
Thanks.
'twas my thread last weekend..Thanks.
If you go to your VX dealer, you should be able to pick up one of their 'GO' batteries that will be a good fit.
Problem with non 'official' replacements from H'ford's or other suppliers is that they are usually too big in length,width and height. I had to go to the above store as the car was urgently needed.
Some have managed to make 096 batteries fit, how I don't know how as the wiring loom prevents longer batteries from locating onto the tray thus preventing the clamp from holding the battery.
The battery I got to fit reasonably well was HB010. Slightly longer, and a tad shorter than the OEM but with some fiddling about of the loom, I've managed to get it fit onto the tray and clamp it. just make sure you get a rating of at least 640CCA. However, the cost of the battery hurt my wallet....
ads_green said:
wormus said:
get an optimate
yep
Any car battery that goes flat is stuffed.
The lead plates crystalise when there is zero charge causing the capacity of the battery to drop considerably. An optimate reverses most of the crystal buildup bring it back to operational use
There are known issues with the VE and radio/dvd's etc not fully powering down leading to flat batteries. Take a search on ls1.com.au you will see what I mean.
You might find a new battery ends up the same. I think there is even a Holden Tech Reference for this. Might require a Tech2 BCM flash etc.
Brian/Caspy might know.
You might find a new battery ends up the same. I think there is even a Holden Tech Reference for this. Might require a Tech2 BCM flash etc.
Brian/Caspy might know.
V2RAC said:
ads_green said:
wormus said:
get an optimate
yep
Any car battery that goes flat is stuffed.
The lead plates crystalise when there is zero charge causing the capacity of the battery to drop considerably. An optimate reverses most of the crystal buildup bring it back to operational use
There's a couple different types - some you use a bench battery charger and theres some that you plug into the cigarette socket and leave in the car when it's running. I'm not sure of the details but as far as I know it causes the voltage to ocillate (but still within limits) wich causes the battery to recover. It won't restore 100% of any dead battery - the longer a battery is left discharged the less you'll be able to restore. However, an optimate on a new battery will make it last longer.
Something like this may help:
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/Test+Equip £3.56
or
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/pro £6.95
I think the first part containes only the means to measure - you will still need a ammeter or multimeter of some kind.
(err you'll have to sort out the added linefeeds)
Steve
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/Test+Equip £3.56
or
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/pro £6.95
I think the first part containes only the means to measure - you will still need a ammeter or multimeter of some kind.
(err you'll have to sort out the added linefeeds)
Steve
SteveMJ said:
Something like this may help:
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/Test+Equip £3.56
or
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/pro £6.95
I think the first part containes only the means to measure - you will still need a ammeter or multimeter of some kind.
(err you'll have to sort out the added linefeeds)
Steve
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/Test+Equip £3.56
or
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/pro £6.95
I think the first part containes only the means to measure - you will still need a ammeter or multimeter of some kind.
(err you'll have to sort out the added linefeeds)
Steve
They look quite good actually. If you were to use these probes on the primary always on fuse (you'll lose you're radio settings but hey if you're tracking down a drain it's not the end of the world) and then start pulling out other fuses you'll be able to track down a drain quickly as as soon as you pull out the culprit you'll see a change on the readings.
It's be good to get a baseline figure from a car that is known to work so at least you can guess what you are aiming for. You can also see how much difference switching on various bits makes (like the headlights).
I manage to swipe my dad's corporate battery tester when I had problems a few years back. It's a great (if costly) unit that does a full check on the battery and starting systems. This is when I found out that a battery showing 14v can be shot to hell - mine was showing a nice high voltage but the plates had crystalised so it couldn't hold any amps meaning the car wouldn't start no matter how long I charged it.
Edited by ads_green on Wednesday 26th March 09:19
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