New engine - maintenance

[nike 5]

I have a LS2/T56 (crate engine).
It is a 18 months old (unused).
Is there any (preventative) maintenance that I should be doing to this unused engine.
Will be a further 3months before I will be able to start engine.

Anythoughts would be appreciated.

[ringram]

Turn it over a few times by hand to make sure it doesnt sieze every month or so and block off all the openings so nothing gets in. Though you will need to let the air flow through when you turn it over. Keep it dry. Some say you should spray some oil in the spark plug holes to keep the bores oiled too. Moisture is probably the worst thing.

[ashman4]

with aircraft engines, can get pastic dummy sparkplugs filled with silica gel ( the stuff in those small white packets (?) in electrical items); that keeps the inside nice and dry. Not sure where you could get them here.
still good to turn gently every now & then.

[ashman4]

tried "engine storage plugs" and found this;

www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=781&itemTyp... - 40

[Boosted LS1]

I'd squirt some wd40 into the spark plug holes and then crank it over 180 degrees then squirt some more in. Rotate a few more times so as to get the bores and rings lubricated. Also, remove the oil pressure sensor from the back of the valley, top of the block. Pour some thin oil in there from time to time and it'll find it's way to the bearings and lifters.

[nike 5]

Many thanks - I shall do that tonight.

[S600VXR]

Use 3in1 spray oil as WD40 evaporates.

[atco2]

S600VXR said:

Use 3in1 spray oil as WD40 evaporates.

correct. It only does what it says on the tin.

water dispersant 40 days

[wolfracer]

atco2 said:

[quote=S600VXR]Use 3in1 spray oil as WD40 evaporates.

correct. It only does what it says on the tin.

water dispersant 40 days[/quote

what it doesn't say in its title is that its also a degreaser. Not ideal for an engine....

[Boosted LS1]

^True, I guess he'll have to dismantle it to clean all the grease out otherwise it'll gum the rings.

As for WD it works well, probably leaves a residue film on the bores and can be applied at anytime.

Edited by Boosted LS1 on Wednesday 3rd December 22:13

[wolfracer]

Boosted LS1 said:

^True, I guess he'll have to dismantle it to clean all the grease out otherwise it'll gum the rings.

As for WD it works well, probably leaves a residue film on the bores and can be applied at anytime.

Edited by Boosted LS1 on Wednesday 3rd December 22:13

So are we saying WD40 is okay? I keep reading about it being a degreaser, but if it is providing a film to stop moisture and oxidisation then it must be okay? would the small amount of "gum" not be shifted in a few rotations at start up anyway?

[Boosted LS1]

Yes, imo it's fine. Rust is caused by water so any barrier film on the bores will prevent but what you don't want is a thick film of something or other as that'll crud up the rings and prevent them from bedding in. You need some friction to bed in rings and lube for the piston skirts. For long standing I think an EP diff oil would be good but you'd want to have the heads off to clean it out. Short term, say a couple of months you want something light so that on start up or soon after at 4000k rpm's the rings bed in

S600 mentioned 3 in 1, I haven't seen that. Anything thin that coats the bores would do the trick but I'd plump for WD as the rings need to bed in, fast.

[S600VXR]

Halfrauds sell it next to the WD40 normally. Basically a thin spray oil... mind you some have ptfe in so be carefull.

[alfienoakes]

Nip down to your local boat shop and get some Mercury Storage Seal or something similar. Its used for laying boat engines up for the winter. Be prepared to have your leg lifted though, anything to do with boats = ££££s