clutch fluid
Author
Discussion

build394

Original Poster:

503 posts

207 months

Saturday 31st January 2009
quotequote all
hi guys nd girls, i just thought i'd post this. i know there has been a number of threads on this subject, but i thought i would mention this. my ro (2007 reg ) has been back to the dealers once again, the clutch oil was like mushroom soup nd i had a very small leak from the top of the steering rack and the usual diff clunk. well then, the clutch fluid, they ended up fitting a new slave nd a master cylinder and replacing all the pipe work. the steering rack was replaced and even the track rod ends and guess what ,the clunk has gone... yipee. may be its a thing to keep an eye on...i don't know, i'm only a simple aircrart engineer!!. oh btw, its only done 4000 miles

Bonnie and Clyde

11,701 posts

215 months

Saturday 31st January 2009
quotequote all
Bloody hell, i've never heard of that beforeyikes Oxtail soup but never mushroom No but seriously, i'm glad you've got it sorted. I wonder what the implications would have been if it had gone unnoticed.

S600VXR

5,877 posts

223 months

Sunday 1st February 2009
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Apart from the rubbish powered seats which take ageas to move forward to allow people into the back of your Ro the clutch release setup is the only real total F**kup made by Holden!! who the hell designed the idiotic hex bleed pipe for the clutch, its diabolical!! When mine is next at the fish for a service Im bitting the bullet and having a bleed line kit fitted to make future changes very easy!

thesfg

39 posts

223 months

Wednesday 11th February 2009
quotequote all
Speaking of clutch/gearbox issues, I am in the middle of a total meltdown.
History:
I have a 56 plate 6L VXR and last year (Sept) I had the switchable exhausts, drivers response pack and ripshifter gearbox put on by Monkfish. All was well.
This year the car was starting to make a "dark" shuddering noise on in gear decelaration and the clutch biting point was coming in either 2mm from the floor or about 9inches nearly fully out. The noticeable point being, the harder I pushed it, the lower the bite point. The gears weren't engaging very happily either. So after speaking with Vauxhall I was assured and took my Monaro to my local Vauxhall dealership. It is still under Warranty I should point out.
They suspected the clutch (typically it hardly played up on the test drive) and duly replaced it with the 6.2L corvette clutch, flywheel and slave cylinder. The old clutch was apparently totally pitted and blue - nice! So I picked it up last night and while the clutch was now permanently engaging at about 4mms up, the "dark noise" and shudder were still there.
More importantly and annoyingly I can hardly change gear now. At >1,500 revs it changes smoothly. A hard change from 1st to 2nd or 3rd to 4th and I pretty much had to stand on the clutch, loose most of my momentum and pull the gear stick in (through grinding noises) with all the strength I've managed to build over my 35years of life. This can't be a good sign. Even with a knackered clutch I could change gear.
So it's gone back to Vauxhall, but if anyone on here has any feedback on if they've had these types of issues in the past or can understand the description above and advise on the problem, then please let me know. I'd really appreciate it.
I'm driving a Meriva courtesy car at present, so you can see my pain people.
Thanks

-Z-

7,962 posts

229 months

Wednesday 11th February 2009
quotequote all
thesfg said:
Speaking of clutch/gearbox issues, I am in the middle of a total meltdown.
History:
I have a 56 plate 6L VXR and last year (Sept) I had the switchable exhausts, drivers response pack and ripshifter gearbox put on by Monkfish. All was well.
This year the car was starting to make a "dark" shuddering noise on in gear decelaration and the clutch biting point was coming in either 2mm from the floor or about 9inches nearly fully out. The noticeable point being, the harder I pushed it, the lower the bite point. The gears weren't engaging very happily either. So after speaking with Vauxhall I was assured and took my Monaro to my local Vauxhall dealership. It is still under Warranty I should point out.
They suspected the clutch (typically it hardly played up on the test drive) and duly replaced it with the 6.2L corvette clutch, flywheel and slave cylinder. The old clutch was apparently totally pitted and blue - nice! So I picked it up last night and while the clutch was now permanently engaging at about 4mms up, the "dark noise" and shudder were still there.
More importantly and annoyingly I can hardly change gear now. At >1,500 revs it changes smoothly. A hard change from 1st to 2nd or 3rd to 4th and I pretty much had to stand on the clutch, loose most of my momentum and pull the gear stick in (through grinding noises) with all the strength I've managed to build over my 35years of life. This can't be a good sign. Even with a knackered clutch I could change gear.
So it's gone back to Vauxhall, but if anyone on here has any feedback on if they've had these types of issues in the past or can understand the description above and advise on the problem, then please let me know. I'd really appreciate it.
I'm driving a Meriva courtesy car at present, so you can see my pain people.
Thanks
I had the same problem with mine before I sold it. The dealer ordered a new box for it, never got it fitted though as I px'd it. Really surprised they gave you an uprated clutch under warranty!

ringram

14,701 posts

271 months

Wednesday 11th February 2009
quotequote all
Very common issue. US guys use replacement adjustable master cylinders and various slaves to help. Oz blokes choose aftermarket clutches and remove pedal return springs etc. Mine has a centreforce and still does it.
So its definately related to the hydrolics. There is a GM technote saying to replace the clutch fluid and other say to keep it clean. Some use Dot 5.1 for its higer heat capacity etc.

Eitherway, if you run it hard it often plays up. Not sure that there is a specific "fix", but from my investigations it appears an aftermarket master cylinder may be the best bet.

ringram

14,701 posts

271 months

S600VXR

5,877 posts

223 months

Wednesday 11th February 2009
quotequote all
I have the same probelem developing when I try to change gear at high rpm although no noises just the clutch peddle dies. Its all to do with the fluid needing flushing through and to do this is a nightmare TBH. What you need to do is get the bleed bar inside the housing swapped for a braided line which then allows the bleed point to be located somewhere easy to access so you can regularly bleed the fluid all the way through. There are kits you can buy to do this but you need to split the g box/engine to gain access so again a PITA! I think the large release bearing holds heat alot and fast changes develope more heat and as such any fluid with water in it just gives up totally. Sounds like the garage in yr case have addressed all the areas in question apart from the fluid and release bearing. Get them to properly bleed it through and see what its like. Mind you id be amazed if a YTS mechanic can actually get it bleed with the stock bleed point!

thesfg

39 posts

223 months

Thursday 12th February 2009
quotequote all
Thanks for all the replies. Most useful and somewhat disheartening TBH. When I first got the ripshifter, I could shoot through the gears and back again. I hope that that will be the case one day soon. I shall take these notes into the garage to help them along as this is the first Monaro they've worked on. Hmmmmmmm. The new clutch (not under warranty - I wish) has a new flywheel and slave cylinder. Apparently they bled the slave to master several times to clear it, but also noted about the closed housing in relation to changing the box fluids.

I'll let you know if it ever becomes the car it once was again. I do hope so.

monkfish1

12,245 posts

247 months

Thursday 12th February 2009
quotequote all
S600VXR said:
I have the same probelem developing when I try to change gear at high rpm although no noises just the clutch peddle dies. Its all to do with the fluid needing flushing through and to do this is a nightmare TBH. What you need to do is get the bleed bar inside the housing swapped for a braided line which then allows the bleed point to be located somewhere easy to access so you can regularly bleed the fluid all the way through. There are kits you can buy to do this but you need to split the g box/engine to gain access so again a PITA! I think the large release bearing holds heat alot and fast changes develope more heat and as such any fluid with water in it just gives up totally. Sounds like the garage in yr case have addressed all the areas in question apart from the fluid and release bearing. Get them to properly bleed it through and see what its like. Mind you id be amazed if a YTS mechanic can actually get it bleed with the stock bleed point!


There is no doubt they are a pain to bleed. We use a pressure bleeder to assist, but its not an ideal design. If its not bled correctly, you should be able to feel this through the pedal. Im starting to get the impression there may be gearbox issues involved here.