DIY oil change - what oil?
Discussion
Got the Monaro MOT'd today with no problems. Car is 5 years old with 32k miles on the clock. I usually have it serviced at the same time as the MOT, but Monkfish couldn't fit me in in time. Looking through the service schedule, as well as all the regular checks, and oil & filter change, it appears that the only 'extra' check at this mileage is the parking brake lining check (which I know is working fine) so I'm considering doing the oil change/service checks myself to save a few quid. I have an oil filter sitting on my desk ready to go on - AC Delco PF46 - the service book says for oil use SAE 0W-30, 5W-30, or 10W-30, so what's a recommended oil to use that is available in the high street - Mobil 1? Car has the Wortec Focus pack and is not used over winter. Also can someone post a photo of where the oil filter is, and do it need a sump plug ring? Couldn't seen anything on the FAQ's re-oil. Thanks!
GSE said:
Got the Monaro MOT'd today with no problems. Car is 5 years old with 32k miles on the clock. I usually have it serviced at the same time as the MOT, but Monkfish couldn't fit me in in time. Looking through the service schedule, as well as all the regular checks, and oil & filter change, it appears that the only 'extra' check at this mileage is the parking brake lining check (which I know is working fine) so I'm considering doing the oil change/service checks myself to save a few quid. I have an oil filter sitting on my desk ready to go on - AC Delco PF46 - the service book says for oil use SAE 0W-30, 5W-30, or 10W-30, so what's a recommended oil to use that is available in the high street - Mobil 1? Car has the Wortec Focus pack and is not used over winter. Also can someone post a photo of where the oil filter is, and do it need a sump plug ring? Couldn't seen anything on the FAQ's re-oil. Thanks!
i use 5w 30 fully synthetic castrol if u skip through this forum there are topics on what oils to use...
Oil changes on them are good fun, I normally have to use 7 litres as 1 litre of it ends up all over me! I do put in 6 litres to mine, but 5.2 to 5.5 is normally enough. Change the oil about 30 minutes to an hour after driving, oil should be warm not boiling though.
Jack up the car on ramps or blocks of wood. Make sure it is safe. Undo the oil filler cap (yellow) on top left of the engine. Undo the heavy metal bash plate, think the Monaros have them. 4x 12mm? bolts. It weighs a few kilos maybe 5kg.
Then you should easily be able to see the oil filter on the passenger side of the sump. Undo the sump plug first and let it drain, can't remember the size of that off hand. Normal socket set should be enough.
Undo oil filter and let that drain. Clean the sump plug. One problem I encountered recently was the old oil filter seal was left on the engine so when I went to put on the new filter it would not tighten properly. Make sure the old oil filter seal comes off the engine too. Put new filter on (smear oil on the seal)and do up the sump plug and add new oil. Make sure the car is level when you check the oil again, add some extra if needed.
the rubber washer should be ok to re-use unless the UK roads eat them?!
Oil to use.....choices choices choices. I have used loads of different ones but the climate is a bit different down here. 10W-50 lives in one and 10W-30 in the other. Full synthetic is not essential but if it is cheap then why not. Upwards of $80 dollars down here. Semi-synthetic is ok to use. Just make sure it has the right rating API SH or SJ or whatever it says in the owners manual.
Jack up the car on ramps or blocks of wood. Make sure it is safe. Undo the oil filler cap (yellow) on top left of the engine. Undo the heavy metal bash plate, think the Monaros have them. 4x 12mm? bolts. It weighs a few kilos maybe 5kg.
Then you should easily be able to see the oil filter on the passenger side of the sump. Undo the sump plug first and let it drain, can't remember the size of that off hand. Normal socket set should be enough.
Undo oil filter and let that drain. Clean the sump plug. One problem I encountered recently was the old oil filter seal was left on the engine so when I went to put on the new filter it would not tighten properly. Make sure the old oil filter seal comes off the engine too. Put new filter on (smear oil on the seal)and do up the sump plug and add new oil. Make sure the car is level when you check the oil again, add some extra if needed.
the rubber washer should be ok to re-use unless the UK roads eat them?!
Oil to use.....choices choices choices. I have used loads of different ones but the climate is a bit different down here. 10W-50 lives in one and 10W-30 in the other. Full synthetic is not essential but if it is cheap then why not. Upwards of $80 dollars down here. Semi-synthetic is ok to use. Just make sure it has the right rating API SH or SJ or whatever it says in the owners manual.
stevemj said:
So for an LS3 oil change I need an oil filter: 92142006 £4.68 + VAT
Plus some oil: Vauxhall's Prestige 5-40 Fully Synthetic £16.29 +VAT or Mob1 0w40 @ £48.29 + VAT.
Its a big jump for the Mobil; what is the benefit.
Cheers, Steve
Plus some oil: Vauxhall's Prestige 5-40 Fully Synthetic £16.29 +VAT or Mob1 0w40 @ £48.29 + VAT.
Its a big jump for the Mobil; what is the benefit.
Cheers, Steve
whats ur engine worth i guess each to there own on types of oils
A couple of comments:
I still have no idea what benefits Mobil has over Vauxhall's Prestige synthetic. The Vauxhall badged has the current oil standard approvals, that I understood was to demonstrate its compliance with certain standards. All I know at thsi stage is that its 3 times the price.
The engine's value is of little relevance IMO - I'm not proposing to change to used chip oil.
The website www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm states that there is NO benefit to frequent oil changes - this is contrary to what I have heard and read over the years. I have historically changed oil much more frequently than the manufacturer's service interval.
Regards
Steve
I still have no idea what benefits Mobil has over Vauxhall's Prestige synthetic. The Vauxhall badged has the current oil standard approvals, that I understood was to demonstrate its compliance with certain standards. All I know at thsi stage is that its 3 times the price.
The engine's value is of little relevance IMO - I'm not proposing to change to used chip oil.
The website www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm states that there is NO benefit to frequent oil changes - this is contrary to what I have heard and read over the years. I have historically changed oil much more frequently than the manufacturer's service interval.
Regards
Steve
I would have thought a fully synthetic is a must. Beyond that and you get into talk about 'film strength'. Some oils (one example Royal Purple) are Ester based and claim better film strength which some would argue is the most important thing about an oil.
Regards oil changes, the only problem with frequent changes is technically you are potentially subjecting the engine to low oil condition on every change as it can take longer for the oil pressure to build, which can cause wear. So it can be the case that excessive frequent changes are worse for the engine.
Either way always fill up the filter with oil before fitting to help pressure get up as soon as possible. It can be scary watching for the oil pressure warning light to go out when it takes a lot longer than expected.
Regards oil changes, the only problem with frequent changes is technically you are potentially subjecting the engine to low oil condition on every change as it can take longer for the oil pressure to build, which can cause wear. So it can be the case that excessive frequent changes are worse for the engine.
Either way always fill up the filter with oil before fitting to help pressure get up as soon as possible. It can be scary watching for the oil pressure warning light to go out when it takes a lot longer than expected.
stevemj said:
The website www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm states that there is NO benefit to frequent oil changes - this is contrary to what I have heard and read over the years. I have historically changed oil much more frequently than the manufacturer's service interval.
Well what benefit did you believe you were giving by changing more often? Manufacturers do a lot of arduos and long-term testing on their engines, with a great deal of scientific testing and checking of both wear patterns and how the oil is standing up. The most important aspect of motor oils these days is unarguably holding it's viscosity and ability to maintain correct pressure under the range of heat and load a modern engine exerts on it. Clearences are so exact, small and true with modern metals and machining that having the oil keep these correct is the biggest challenge and most important thing the oil does. Better to keep the pieces of metal that move around away from each other with a thickness of fluid than to give a film that prevents them siezing if they do... Pretty much any modern oil will provide enough of a residue film coating to prevent any wear occuring at startup before oil pressure is attained. In fact, if you take a junker engine and drain the oil then run it on tickover with the cooling system intact and working, you'd be very surprised how long it will happily run before signs of seizure begin to become apparent.
For the record, I run Comma semi-synth 10W 40 in my 1998 Volvo 2.3 high-pressure turbo motor and change it every 10k miles along with a Fram filter. I bought the car with 130k on the clock and it's now hit 186k, and purrs like a kitten. I'm also an independant drilling consultant in the oil business, so I know a thing or two eh
I've found some photos on the net of where the oil filter is so I know where to look. It looks like it's mounted vertical so it won't piss oil all over the place when unscrewed? However, couldn't get the car up in the air as the ramps I have are too steep and the front spoiler catches. So this weekend I have to do a cut and shut welding job on 4 steep ramps that i have to make 2 long shallow ones. Think I'm going to use the Vauxhall oil.
MadMaxHSV said:
I would have thought a fully synthetic is a must. Beyond that and you get into talk about 'film strength'. Some oils (one example Royal Purple) are Ester based and claim better film strength which some would argue is the most important thing about an oil.
Regards oil changes, the only problem with frequent changes is technically you are potentially subjecting the engine to low oil condition on every change as it can take longer for the oil pressure to build, which can cause wear. So it can be the case that excessive frequent changes are worse for the engine.
Either way always fill up the filter with oil before fitting to help pressure get up as soon as possible. It can be scary watching for the oil pressure warning light to go out when it takes a lot longer than expected.
Regards oil changes, the only problem with frequent changes is technically you are potentially subjecting the engine to low oil condition on every change as it can take longer for the oil pressure to build, which can cause wear. So it can be the case that excessive frequent changes are worse for the engine.
Either way always fill up the filter with oil before fitting to help pressure get up as soon as possible. It can be scary watching for the oil pressure warning light to go out when it takes a lot longer than expected.
You really believe a modern engine will suffer any kind of wear, bearing or hard metal, in the 3 seconds or so that it takes the pump to fill the filter and put the oil pressure light out while the engine is on idle with no load...? Filling the filter does no harm, but it's really an unnecessary potentially messy business and a good way to drop an oily new filter in the dirt when it slips out your hand as you lie under your car in the dirty driveway...
FinallyVXRed said:
Did a DIY Oil & Oil Filter change but still see a Oil Change warning on the dash. I assume this is just an indicator needs resetting? Is this something you can do yourself or do I have to take it to the dealer to reset?
check the FAQ's and look for a service reset option. that should clear it it believe.Just been through this myself and put Royal Purple in mine.
Got it from The Fish so must be good.
Noticed a small drop in running temps and if the website is to be believed a slight improvement in power.
http://www.royalpurple.com/
Got it from The Fish so must be good.
Noticed a small drop in running temps and if the website is to be believed a slight improvement in power.
http://www.royalpurple.com/
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