Discussion
You really need to be careful here. You should be checking that you have proper clearance (say 5mm) on full bump. The only way to properly check this is to remove the springs and lower the car onto the bumpstops. If it clears all is well, if it doesn't you will likely find out when going through a subsidence dip on a motorway at high speed!!! the result of tyre v wheelarch is obvious.
The rear of a stock monaro is tight, really tight.
The rear of a stock monaro is tight, really tight.
If my memory serves me, on a stock VXR that i measured on full bump with standard tyres the clearance to the outer arch was 8mm, but that will vary dependant on camber and subframe placement. Go up 10mm on tyre and thats 5mm each side. Now down to 3mm. Dont forget you need a working clearance for cornering etc.
gsd2000 said:
If you trip the inner lip to the spot welds how much extra room can be gained?
How much extra negative chamber can you run on the rear without wearing the tyres down too quick?
If both of the above were done how much extra room could be gained?
How much extra negative chamber can you run on the rear without wearing the tyres down too quick?
If both of the above were done how much extra room could be gained?
You dont want more negative camber! You are already at 1.5 degress-ish. If you do you will lose straight line grip anyway.
The extra you gain will be however much you chop off! the contact area is towards the rear of the arch, where the factory have already slimmed the arch lip down. but in answer to your question, probably not enough to counter an 8mm offset inaccuracy and have a working clearance.
However, if you fit some pedder camber/toe adjusting bushes and spin them round you could find another 2-3mm on top of what you gain with the angle grinder.
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