Discussion
Just dont look at it. The disk will wear out before the rust becomes a problem.
You could brush it off and spray some high temp silver paint on the hat (not brake surface) but I dont see the point.
You need to spend more time thinking about how to reduce the bottlenecks to performance you have
You could brush it off and spray some high temp silver paint on the hat (not brake surface) but I dont see the point.
You need to spend more time thinking about how to reduce the bottlenecks to performance you have
snowwolf said:
Do NOT sand blast to remove rust, it will bugger up the disc
It will be fine providing you mask up the disc surface with a piece of rubber or tape it up with thick insulating tape and make sure the nozzle is never directed at the disc surface.ETA that sounds crap, I think you know what I mean. You blast the top hat only with the rest masked up.
Edited by MyM8V8 on Thursday 22 October 19:03
The disc will have found it's molecular construction with hot cold sequencies, sand blasting will alter his construction, I know it sounds odd but it will distort the disc, just to show how sand blasting effects metal, if you was to put a standard wood saw in a sand blaster and sand blasted one sid of the saw for just a short while, it would bend like a banana and stay like it.
BRAKE PAD BEDDING IN PROCEDURE
To ensure maximum performance and customer satisfaction, new brake pads must be bedded in upon installation. Correct bedding guarantees that new brake pads and new rotors work flawlessly together. In order to function optimally, organic brake pads must develop friction coal on its surface. This friction coal develops at a temperature of approximately 280°C (537°F). It is very important that this temperature is reached continuously and slowly. This gradual process generates temperatures that not only penetrate the surface of the brake discs and pads, but also distribute evenly through the whole disc and pad material. This is essential when using new brake discs, since the disc often shows signs of stress (due to the casting process and fast cooling) in the materials. A steady and careful warming and cooling process guarantees a good release of both materials.
The bedding in/break in procedure should be done as follows:
Drive at approx. 35 mph (60 kmh) for about 500 yards (solid front discs) to 800 yards (vented front discs) while slightly dragging the brakes (i.e. light brake pedal pressure). This process allows the brake temperature to slowly and evenly build up to 300°C (572°F).
Now, if possible, drive about 2200 yards maintaining the same speed without braking. This will allow the pads and discs to cool down evenly. After this cool-down, perform a normal brake application from 35 mph to 0. No panic stops!
Now, the friction surface has evenly developed friction coal, the pads have bonded with the disc surface, and tensions in the disc materials will have disappeared.
Only trained master mechanics should perform this procedure before delivering the vehicle to its owner. Do not expect your customer to properly finish your brake job!
This bedding process is only suitable for the front axle - not the rear. This is due to the brake force distribution of front and rear axles. In order to reach 300°C (527°F) on the rear pads you would have to drive several miles with dragging brakes. However, in that time the front brakes will be glowing red, overheating and thus destroying the front brakes.
Final note – don’t forget to clean hubs and check the wheel bearings. Also, the brake fluid should be replaced at least every 2 years.
To ensure maximum performance and customer satisfaction, new brake pads must be bedded in upon installation. Correct bedding guarantees that new brake pads and new rotors work flawlessly together. In order to function optimally, organic brake pads must develop friction coal on its surface. This friction coal develops at a temperature of approximately 280°C (537°F). It is very important that this temperature is reached continuously and slowly. This gradual process generates temperatures that not only penetrate the surface of the brake discs and pads, but also distribute evenly through the whole disc and pad material. This is essential when using new brake discs, since the disc often shows signs of stress (due to the casting process and fast cooling) in the materials. A steady and careful warming and cooling process guarantees a good release of both materials.
The bedding in/break in procedure should be done as follows:
Drive at approx. 35 mph (60 kmh) for about 500 yards (solid front discs) to 800 yards (vented front discs) while slightly dragging the brakes (i.e. light brake pedal pressure). This process allows the brake temperature to slowly and evenly build up to 300°C (572°F).
Now, if possible, drive about 2200 yards maintaining the same speed without braking. This will allow the pads and discs to cool down evenly. After this cool-down, perform a normal brake application from 35 mph to 0. No panic stops!
Now, the friction surface has evenly developed friction coal, the pads have bonded with the disc surface, and tensions in the disc materials will have disappeared.
Only trained master mechanics should perform this procedure before delivering the vehicle to its owner. Do not expect your customer to properly finish your brake job!
This bedding process is only suitable for the front axle - not the rear. This is due to the brake force distribution of front and rear axles. In order to reach 300°C (527°F) on the rear pads you would have to drive several miles with dragging brakes. However, in that time the front brakes will be glowing red, overheating and thus destroying the front brakes.
Final note – don’t forget to clean hubs and check the wheel bearings. Also, the brake fluid should be replaced at least every 2 years.
wolfracer said:
doleboy said:
So one radical approach would be to drive quickly then brake hard. A lot. Let me know how you go.
....and that gets rid of rust?
Now it makes sense why they drive so fast in Salt Lake City.......
Sorry. Was on the crackberry when I replied. Thought the poster meant the friction surface was rusty - I see now what he meant.....
snowwolf said:
The disc will have found it's molecular construction with hot cold sequencies, sand blasting will alter his construction, I know it sounds odd but it will distort the disc, just to show how sand blasting effects metal, if you was to put a standard wood saw in a sand blaster and sand blasted one sid of the saw for just a short while, it would bend like a banana and stay like it.
How do you explain the shot peening process to normalise metals after welding then. Similar process/ heat cycle/stress relief?I can well understand your hacksaw blade example, but we are talking about a cast item with lots of meat on it, so I doubt very much your analogy would apply.
Anyway. I have a nice low pressure (30 p.s.i) blast cabinet which uses glass beads, which cleans and polishes the surface rather than abrade it.
ATEOTD There's nothing wrong with an old fashioned wire brush and emery cloth to clean the top hats. Then paint em with a suitable weather resistant coating.
MyM8V8 said:
snowwolf said:
The disc will have found it's molecular construction with hot cold sequencies, sand blasting will alter his construction, I know it sounds odd but it will distort the disc, just to show how sand blasting effects metal, if you was to put a standard wood saw in a sand blaster and sand blasted one sid of the saw for just a short while, it would bend like a banana and stay like it.
How do you explain the shot peening process to normalise metals after welding then. Similar process/ heat cycle/stress relief?I can well understand your hacksaw blade example, but we are talking about a cast item with lots of meat on it, so I doubt very much your analogy would apply.
Anyway. I have a nice low pressure (30 p.s.i) blast cabinet which uses glass beads, which cleans and polishes the surface rather than abrade it.
ATEOTD There's nothing wrong with an old fashioned wire brush and emery cloth to clean the top hats. Then paint em with a suitable weather resistant coating.
I am not totally sure it will cause a problem, but I was just giving my opinion to his question, I would not sand/beed blast any of my discs, just emery cloth and paint up will do.
snowwolf said:
MyM8V8 said:
snowwolf said:
The disc will have found it's molecular construction with hot cold sequencies, sand blasting will alter his construction, I know it sounds odd but it will distort the disc, just to show how sand blasting effects metal, if you was to put a standard wood saw in a sand blaster and sand blasted one sid of the saw for just a short while, it would bend like a banana and stay like it.
How do you explain the shot peening process to normalise metals after welding then. Similar process/ heat cycle/stress relief?I can well understand your hacksaw blade example, but we are talking about a cast item with lots of meat on it, so I doubt very much your analogy would apply.
Anyway. I have a nice low pressure (30 p.s.i) blast cabinet which uses glass beads, which cleans and polishes the surface rather than abrade it.
ATEOTD There's nothing wrong with an old fashioned wire brush and emery cloth to clean the top hats. Then paint em with a suitable weather resistant coating.
I am not totally sure it will cause a problem, but I was just giving my opinion to his question, I would not sand/beed blast any of my discs, just emery cloth and paint up will do.
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