Round off bolt!
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Discussion

maxmc2

Original Poster:

2,063 posts

216 months

Sunday 10th January 2010
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What's the best way of removing a rounded off bolt without ruining the thread don't really want to retap the whole as this could prove rather difficult.

drew ss

2,683 posts

215 months

Sunday 10th January 2010
quotequote all
maxmc2 said:
What's the best way of removing a rounded off bolt without ruining the thread don't really want to retap the whole as this could prove rather difficult.



multi grips if u can get on to it...

gsd2000

11,515 posts

214 months

Sunday 10th January 2010
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weld another nut ontop and remove
Get the closet socket, smack it on with a hammer and remove
You could try this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Irwin-Bolt-Grip-Remover-39...

Nigel Worc's

8,121 posts

219 months

Sunday 10th January 2010
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You're a little too far away to easily borrow them, but I have a set of four tools (same tool,different sizes), that I'm struggling to describe to you, that are good for that, providing you can get them into the space.

The tool has a longish handle with one fixed serrated jaw, and one sprung loaded serrated jaw.

maxmc2

Original Poster:

2,063 posts

216 months

Sunday 10th January 2010
quotequote all
It's a bolt inside a crankshaft pulley tried grips but no space to turn it's an allen key bolt so no actual head so annoying.

Nigel Worc's

8,121 posts

219 months

Sunday 10th January 2010
quotequote all
maxmc2 said:
It's a bolt inside a crankshaft pulley tried grips but no space to turn it's an allen key bolt so no actual head so annoying.
I can imagine how annoying it is, most of us have been there at some time.

Can you get a dremmel type tool anywhere near, to take the rest of the head off ? Hopefully allowing you to remove the pulley, and then use the exposed bolt shaft to remove the rest of the bolt

Nigel Worc's

8,121 posts

219 months

Sunday 10th January 2010
quotequote all
Or, use the dremmel type tool to creat a slot in the remaining head, and use an impact driver ?

maxmc2

Original Poster:

2,063 posts

216 months

Sunday 10th January 2010
quotequote all
I suppose I could drill the head that's about all that would fit in the gap then when the pulley is off try and get grips in there, all to change a timing belt.

crisisjez

9,209 posts

236 months

Sunday 10th January 2010
quotequote all
maxmc2 said:
I suppose I could drill the head that's about all that would fit in the gap then when the pulley is off try and get grips in there, all to change a timing belt.
Weld the allen key to the head.

Nigel Worc's

8,121 posts

219 months

Sunday 10th January 2010
quotequote all
maxmc2 said:
I suppose I could drill the head that's about all that would fit in the gap then when the pulley is off try and get grips in there, all to change a timing belt.
I've been there mate, several times.

I will take a picture of the tools I was trying to explain to you, they are australian, I bought them from QVC, of all places, years ago, they have been very useful many times, although no good for your particular challenge this time.

maxmc2

Original Poster:

2,063 posts

216 months

Sunday 10th January 2010
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Would be useful for future reference thanks

It seems weird that they use allen key bolts for this sort if thing you would have thought they use bolts with heads.

snowwolf

11,503 posts

206 months

Sunday 10th January 2010
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What size allen key is it?

stevieturbo

18,103 posts

278 months

Sunday 10th January 2010
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What engine ?

It might just be as handy to drill it, depending on access. Or if you can get something welded to the stuck bolt, head the st out of it first with a high temperature torch ( oxy/acet or mapp gas would do ) before trying to undo.

Or you might be lucky and the heat from weldiong might be enough, but probably not.

If drilling, get some cobalt bits. They'll drill through hardened steel with ease.

S800VXR

5,877 posts

231 months

Sunday 10th January 2010
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If you can drill down the centre then you can use some Easyouts... tried and tested engineering solution... just make sure you get a decent set! Alternatively you could get it spark eroded out but theres not to many of them around.
A picture would help alot...

maxmc2

Original Poster:

2,063 posts

216 months

Sunday 10th January 2010
quotequote all
I think it's a size 10 allen key.

It's on my golf will probably opt for the drilling as I don't have access to a welder!

The annoying thing is when you try and undo the bolts the pulley keeps moving hense rounding off.

S800VXR

5,877 posts

231 months

Sunday 10th January 2010
quotequote all
maxmc2 said:
I think it's a size 10 allen key.

It's on my golf will probably opt for the drilling as I don't have access to a welder!

The annoying thing is when you try and undo the bolts the pulley keeps moving hense rounding off.
If you can drill it then the easiest and quickest method is using an easyout. Halfrauds sell them and their OK for a few uses before their shot. Just use the biggest one possible and dont be affraid to lean on the wrench when undoing it as they are very strong!

H15HSV

42 posts

225 months

Sunday 10th January 2010
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This is always happens on these bolts I use a torx drive socket which is a fraction smaller you hammer it in it always works for me. We always call these the chocolate bolts I think VAG do it for a laugh.

stevieturbo

18,103 posts

278 months

Sunday 10th January 2010
quotequote all
maxmc2 said:
I think it's a size 10 allen key.

It's on my golf will probably opt for the drilling as I don't have access to a welder!

The annoying thing is when you try and undo the bolts the pulley keeps moving hense rounding off.
Then lock the engine from rotating !!!!!

And when you say bolts...how many ? Arent you just referring to the central bolt ?

And easy outs wont work, most of the time they break. Especially if its so tight, that the normal method didnt work.

Drill the head off the bolt, and the pulley will just come off, giving you access to the remains, which should then come out easily. Or if flush, an easy out could be used at that point.

Cobalt drill bits.

snowwolf

11,503 posts

206 months

Sunday 10th January 2010
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Was just going to say, if they are cap head bolts then they will be EN8 steel which is very hard to drill, drill slowly with drill cutting compound, if you can get a good hard hit on the end of the screw, that normally releases it, or heat up the area with a small blow torch and see if that works.

You say size 10? it cn't be the bolt that holds the pully on, if its a single bolt it will be about a 17mm allen key but never heard of allen bolts being used to hold on a pully?

Edited by snowwolf on Sunday 10th January 22:53

Wolfracer

2,074 posts

237 months

Sunday 10th January 2010
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Just as an aside, its sometime easier to "free" a sticky bolt by tightening it slightly to break the seal before undoing it. Does seem to work. I know its not applicable here, but might be of use to someone....