engine builder step this way...
Discussion
Are there any must do's with an LS engine regards a rebuild?
I'm keeping the crank but swapping out the rods and pistons. Currently i'm looking at an assembly balance and de-glaze hone of the bores to freshen them up for the new rings.
ARP's all round with main and head studs.
Smaller engines (admitedley little honda type-r paperweights) have required line honing on the mains when ussing studs due to the extra torque distorting the caps, is this an issue here? (can't see it with recessed 6 bolt mains but never know).
Are the stock main and rod bearings usually good enough to keep (assuming no damage), or should I be replacing them anyway?
The lumps only done 10K so i'm not expecting any wear.
Any experience appreciated as always
I'm keeping the crank but swapping out the rods and pistons. Currently i'm looking at an assembly balance and de-glaze hone of the bores to freshen them up for the new rings.
ARP's all round with main and head studs.
Smaller engines (admitedley little honda type-r paperweights) have required line honing on the mains when ussing studs due to the extra torque distorting the caps, is this an issue here? (can't see it with recessed 6 bolt mains but never know).
Are the stock main and rod bearings usually good enough to keep (assuming no damage), or should I be replacing them anyway?
The lumps only done 10K so i'm not expecting any wear.
Any experience appreciated as always
If you're doing a rebalance then you may as well fit arp rod bolts. If you want to spend some more then fit arp main bolts as well. Stock head bolts are torque to yeld so can take quite a while to install with a digiguage. If you fit arp head studs then it's a simple matter to torque them up in the conventional way.
If the shells look good then you could re-use them but I always fit new ACl bearings. Don't forget to move the crank forwards/backwards to settle it into the thrust bearing. Pay particular attention to fitting the oil pick up into the pump housing, then once fitted you can bolt it down to the stud. Put the head gaskets on the correct way and make sure you use like for like. There are lots of torque settings to attend to, even the sumps a structural member so make sure you do it all by the book. Front pulley will be fun and use a new bolt. You'll need the old one to or some threaded bar. HTH.
If the shells look good then you could re-use them but I always fit new ACl bearings. Don't forget to move the crank forwards/backwards to settle it into the thrust bearing. Pay particular attention to fitting the oil pick up into the pump housing, then once fitted you can bolt it down to the stud. Put the head gaskets on the correct way and make sure you use like for like. There are lots of torque settings to attend to, even the sumps a structural member so make sure you do it all by the book. Front pulley will be fun and use a new bolt. You'll need the old one to or some threaded bar. HTH.
Why do rods and not shells... rods will be fine for what ever you throw at a NA lump from what (thats not alot TBH) I now know so I'd be tempted to keep them and throw new shells into the equation instead.
I'm sure there are others who are far more familair with the LS engines though.
I'm sure there are others who are far more familair with the LS engines though.
Cheers Rich, already have the rebuild book you speak of 
rod bearings assumed a given. Mains wasn't sure whether to bother as not changing or re-grinding the crank, but while its apart...
It'll be ARP bolts 'all' round, so rod, mains, heads, etc.
Guess thats pretty much it. These things are so simple compared to an M3 S52 or v6 cossie lump seen in the past. Quite refreshing really.
I picked up a full factory rebuild tool kit for peanuts which will ensure things like the engine covers will be aligned etc.
Will be a nice project looking forward to it
hopefully the fruits of my labour will be ready for show in May
rod bearings assumed a given. Mains wasn't sure whether to bother as not changing or re-grinding the crank, but while its apart...
It'll be ARP bolts 'all' round, so rod, mains, heads, etc.
Guess thats pretty much it. These things are so simple compared to an M3 S52 or v6 cossie lump seen in the past. Quite refreshing really.
I picked up a full factory rebuild tool kit for peanuts which will ensure things like the engine covers will be aligned etc.
Will be a nice project looking forward to it
hopefully the fruits of my labour will be ready for show in May
I reality though, if the bearings are fine, there probably is no point. After all, if he hadnt stripped the engine, they'd probably last over 100k anyway.
But generally, whilst its apart, its the done thing to replace them.
I would defo fit new rods though. If only to make the range of pistons available much greater.
ARP main studs definately not necessary unless aiming big. Some will say you need to line hone the block.....cant say Ive ever done it or needed to.
ARP head studs or head bolts would be fine. Studs generally preferred though. Although for a n/a bolts would be perfectly fine.
But generally, whilst its apart, its the done thing to replace them.
I would defo fit new rods though. If only to make the range of pistons available much greater.
ARP main studs definately not necessary unless aiming big. Some will say you need to line hone the block.....cant say Ive ever done it or needed to.
ARP head studs or head bolts would be fine. Studs generally preferred though. Although for a n/a bolts would be perfectly fine.
It will be supporting a blower so figured main studs would be good safety for the little extra cash.
Rods are on the list for changing with the pistons.
I'll maybe plastic the mains with the studs and see if a line hone is needed. Should hope not but might as well do it right first.
thanks all
Rods are on the list for changing with the pistons.
I'll maybe plastic the mains with the studs and see if a line hone is needed. Should hope not but might as well do it right first.
thanks all
Gassing Station | HSV & Monaro | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff