Caring for Supercharged Cars
Discussion
Hi All,
Being supercharged virgin, I was keen to learn how to care for my car, especially in the light of recent piston failures experienced by a couple of other FI members. So, with the help of the forum's collective knowledge, I have compiled a list of DOs and DON'Ts to help people such as me and future FI owners to look after their engines. Usual disclaimers apply.
DOs AND DON'Ts:
Use good quality fuel (at least super unleaded, 98RON+ if possible).
Always allow the engine to warm up fully before giving it a work out, bearing in mind that it takes longer for the oil to reach operating temperature than the coolant.
Avoid driving hard with less than 1/4 tank of as there is a risk of the engine running lean through starvation.
Check your oil at least one a week.
Change your oil at least every 10K miles / 12 months with quality oil.
Don't drive your car hard immediately after leaving slow moving or stationary traffic as superchargers heat soak.
Don't drive your car hard immediately if you have been stopped for a short while (EG shops, fuelling etc).
If your car has an intercooler, regularly check its coolant fluid level.
ADDITIONAL CONSIDERATIONS:
Think carefully before using discount supermarket fuel: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2007_UK_
Consider fitting an intercooler if your car does not already have one. This will help keep inlet temperatures down.
Consider fitting a high performance plug such as the NGK BPR6EF.
Consider fitting a lower temperature thermostat.
Fitting forged internals such as pistons and conrods, especially over 9psi boost, will make for a much stronger engine.
I hope that helps,
B
Being supercharged virgin, I was keen to learn how to care for my car, especially in the light of recent piston failures experienced by a couple of other FI members. So, with the help of the forum's collective knowledge, I have compiled a list of DOs and DON'Ts to help people such as me and future FI owners to look after their engines. Usual disclaimers apply.
DOs AND DON'Ts:
Use good quality fuel (at least super unleaded, 98RON+ if possible).
Always allow the engine to warm up fully before giving it a work out, bearing in mind that it takes longer for the oil to reach operating temperature than the coolant.
Avoid driving hard with less than 1/4 tank of as there is a risk of the engine running lean through starvation.
Check your oil at least one a week.
Change your oil at least every 10K miles / 12 months with quality oil.
Don't drive your car hard immediately after leaving slow moving or stationary traffic as superchargers heat soak.
Don't drive your car hard immediately if you have been stopped for a short while (EG shops, fuelling etc).
If your car has an intercooler, regularly check its coolant fluid level.
ADDITIONAL CONSIDERATIONS:
Think carefully before using discount supermarket fuel: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2007_UK_
Consider fitting an intercooler if your car does not already have one. This will help keep inlet temperatures down.
Consider fitting a high performance plug such as the NGK BPR6EF.
Consider fitting a lower temperature thermostat.
Fitting forged internals such as pistons and conrods, especially over 9psi boost, will make for a much stronger engine.
I hope that helps,
B
Edited by Boggie on Friday 19th March 11:24
The criticality or otherwise is very dependant on how much boost you are running. A 112 at 6psi is nothing like a 122 (or a TVS2300) at 12psi.
For all the doom mongers out there, the cost of rebuilding an engine post piston failure is the same as building it before. Assuming no bore damage. Given the piston material, it is very rare to see anything that a light hone wont take care of.
Take into account the suggestions from boggie, and keep on enjoying your car. If you are unlucky, well so be it. The cost is very likely to be the same regardless.
Edited to add, the suggestions apply equally to any car, regardless of the state of tune. I never cease to be amazed how some people treat their cars!
For all the doom mongers out there, the cost of rebuilding an engine post piston failure is the same as building it before. Assuming no bore damage. Given the piston material, it is very rare to see anything that a light hone wont take care of.
Take into account the suggestions from boggie, and keep on enjoying your car. If you are unlucky, well so be it. The cost is very likely to be the same regardless.
Edited to add, the suggestions apply equally to any car, regardless of the state of tune. I never cease to be amazed how some people treat their cars!
Edited by monkfish1 on Thursday 18th March 15:45
Scangauge only reads factory stuff though ??
Aftermarket widebands are pretty damn cheap now. Probably isnt any real excuse for not having one. Although at the same time...it could also instill paranoia too.
Many Jap owners swear by detonation detection warning lights such as those by Link Knocklink, or Phormula's KS-3
Either of these devices may give a little warning of a problem to an unsuspecting driver.
Either way, the standard pistons are weak...tick tock.
Aftermarket widebands are pretty damn cheap now. Probably isnt any real excuse for not having one. Although at the same time...it could also instill paranoia too.
Many Jap owners swear by detonation detection warning lights such as those by Link Knocklink, or Phormula's KS-3
Either of these devices may give a little warning of a problem to an unsuspecting driver.
Either way, the standard pistons are weak...tick tock.
Here's one the temperature gauge is pretty useless, it moves up quickly to just over 1/4 when the engine is still cold, it moves to just below 1/2 (normal temp) when the coolant temp is about 190-192, only then will I drive it above 2,500rpm. Before that only below 2,500rpm and accelerate slowly (This is also because I am waiting for the crank drive belt to get the correct tension). It will also not move past the 1/2 until the engine has cooked itself and possible damage is being done. I know this as had a problem with my cooling system (now fixed) and got the scan gauges to monitor the fix and temps. First time this happened (pre scan gauges) it was my own fault, drifting too slow, too long and lost three pistons (was non-intercooler with a Vortech SC 6psi), second time was a fan failure and it cost me the air con compressor and a radiator.
The yanks still use 6's well into 6-7-800 USBhp..
So no way for most cars would I suggest using anything colder than a 7.
As for widebands, AEM are probabloy the cheapest at the minute, and easier to wire up and install than the Innovate.
As for revving the engine when cold. TBH, that wouldnt particularly bother me. In fact...less change of it detonating when cold lol
So no way for most cars would I suggest using anything colder than a 7.
As for widebands, AEM are probabloy the cheapest at the minute, and easier to wire up and install than the Innovate.
As for revving the engine when cold. TBH, that wouldnt particularly bother me. In fact...less change of it detonating when cold lol
007 VXR said:
VXR_Daz said:
Boggie said:
Think carefully before using discount supermarket fuel.
What am I supposed to be thinking about? I'm thinking Tesco 99 here.
tesco 99
or
v power
Indeed, just thought that was a very ambiguous statement, what does it actually mean?
Tesco 99 for average day, V-Power for days when I am feeling rich here
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