Help! Lifeless Tamora...
Help! Lifeless Tamora...
Author
Discussion

JockyWilson

Original Poster:

49 posts

188 months

Thursday 10th November 2011
quotequote all
I have been an absolute muppett; being distracted by speaking to someone after getting out of the car on Saturday it seems I left the Tamora with the boot ajar so the interior light has completely drained the battery. There's not even enough charge left to get into the car (key fobs ineffective). Firstly, I'm going to replace the key fob batteries to double check it's not that, as the spare never worked since I bought the car and the other was weak. However, I don't think it's the key fob batteries.

Luckily, I have one of the battery jump start connectors bought from Racing Green:

http://www.thetvrshop.com/TVR/Parts_details/TVR%20...

and I also have a Clarke 4000 jump start (http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/jump-start-4000).

As it's the first time this has happened and electrics is not exactly my specialist subject, Id appreciate some advice on whether I'm doing the right thing or whether I'm risking further damage.

The Tamora manual says not to put more than 7 amps through the battery connector on the underside of the car. Do the wires from this connector go straight to the battery terminals or is there some sort of link into the cars wider electrical network? Obviously the battery is going to draw more than 7 amps when starting.

If I connect the jump start, give it 5 minutes for enough battery charge so I can get into the car, then turn the ignition; am I risking cooking the ECU?

Note: the car is in an enclosed garage / car park with no access to mains electrical power, so slowly trickle charging isn't an option.

Any advice / similar experience would be appreciated...

tamore

9,570 posts

307 months

Thursday 10th November 2011
quotequote all
JockyWilson said:
I have been an absolute muppett; being distracted by speaking to someone after getting out of the car on Saturday it seems I left the Tamora with the boot ajar so the interior light has completely drained the battery. There's not even enough charge left to get into the car (key fobs ineffective). Firstly, I'm going to replace the key fob batteries to double check it's not that, as the spare never worked since I bought the car and the other was weak. However, I don't think it's the key fob batteries.

Luckily, I have one of the battery jump start connectors bought from Racing Green:

http://www.thetvrshop.com/TVR/Parts_details/TVR%20...

and I also have a Clarke 4000 jump start (http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/jump-start-4000).

As it's the first time this has happened and electrics is not exactly my specialist subject, Id appreciate some advice on whether I'm doing the right thing or whether I'm risking further damage.

The Tamora manual says not to put more than 7 amps through the battery connector on the underside of the car. Do the wires from this connector go straight to the battery terminals or is there some sort of link into the cars wider electrical network? Obviously the battery is going to draw more than 7 amps when starting.

If I connect the jump start, give it 5 minutes for enough battery charge so I can get into the car, then turn the ignition; am I risking cooking the ECU?

Note: the car is in an enclosed garage / car park with no access to mains electrical power, so slowly trickle charging isn't an option.

Any advice / similar experience would be appreciated...
jump started my car dozens of times directly off other cars, and jump started a boxster from mine once! absolutely fine.

optimax sniffer

1,817 posts

238 months

Thursday 10th November 2011
quotequote all
Did exactly the same within the first few weeks of having our Tamora. Jumped it off the cerb via the Anderson connector, without any side effects for either car. Had to take the Tam for a drive for a check though winkdriving

cammy71

356 posts

221 months

Thursday 10th November 2011
quotequote all
Hi bought my motor with the interior lights switched off and have never changed it back for this very reason. Just plug in accumate after every run and no probs (so far!).

Getsis

1,547 posts

239 months

Friday 11th November 2011
quotequote all
I have my boot light disconnected, My car would loose battery charge quickly if left for over 3 weeks, tried to find out what would do this and after many hours searching I put the camera in the boot on a timer and shut the boot (flash off), sure enough the boot light was on!! I disconnected it and I haven't look into why it was staying on. Never had a problem with the battery draining since.

(I must look into this now you have reminded me.)

JockyWilson

Original Poster:

49 posts

188 months

Sunday 13th November 2011
quotequote all
On the second attempt it's back up and running smilesmile

10 minutes connected to the jump start battery then left until it was idling at normal temperature.... then a good 2 hour drive just to top up the battery wink

Think I'll do the same test on the boot light, good idea

NailedOn

3,118 posts

258 months

Thursday 8th December 2011
quotequote all
I have a flat battery on my T350c. I've located the Anderson connector but due to it's location (very close to the ground,) I cannot see what is in there when I take the cover off.
I have a jump starter, but how does it connect to the Anderson?
All guidance welcome. If this is on another thread that I've missed, please point me to it.

tamore

9,570 posts

307 months

Thursday 8th December 2011
quotequote all
NailedOn said:
I have a flat battery on my T350c. I've located the Anderson connector but due to it's location (very close to the ground,) I cannot see what is in there when I take the cover off.
I have a jump starter, but how does it connect to the Anderson?
All guidance welcome. If this is on another thread that I've missed, please point me to it.
http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-car-parts-detail.asp?CATID=7&SUBCATID=53&PROID=567

however, i had a set of jump leads with one knackered croc clip, so i bought an anderson connector off fleabay and made my own. used a fair bit and never let me down.

NailedOn

3,118 posts

258 months

Thursday 8th December 2011
quotequote all
Thanks for the replies. My order is on its way!

Buzz Billsberry

1,306 posts

254 months

Friday 9th December 2011
quotequote all
JockyWilson said:
I have been an absolute muppett; being distracted by speaking to someone after getting out of the car on Saturday it seems I left the Tamora with the boot ajar so the interior light has completely drained the battery. There's not even enough charge left to get into the car (key fobs ineffective). Firstly, I'm going to replace the key fob batteries to double check it's not that, as the spare never worked since I bought the car and the other was weak. However, I don't think it's the key fob batteries.

Luckily, I have one of the battery jump start connectors bought from Racing Green:

http://www.thetvrshop.com/TVR/Parts_details/TVR%20...

and I also have a Clarke 4000 jump start (http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/jump-start-4000).

Wow £42 for an Anderson connector gulp! Just for future info these are really, really simple to make up and put together:

Anderson connector incl. Handle £8.99( Genuine Anderson) Autosport show but can buy them from most kit car suppliers
Rubber cover to protect Anderson under car (if required) £4.99
Cable 1m correct gadget £6.00 local auto supplier
Battery end connector x 2 £1.25 local supplier

Total cost £21.23 inc. or £16.24 w/o rubber Anderson protector
Crimped in the vice and covered each end with shrink tube & slotted the relevant cable into the right orientation +/-...making sure at the Anderson end the metal connector inset is the right way up!

Simples

Buzz


Edited by Buzz Billsberry on Friday 9th December 11:25

Targarama

14,717 posts

306 months

Friday 9th December 2011
quotequote all
Buzz Billsberry said:
Wow £42 for an Anderson connector gulp! Just for future info these are really, really simple to make up and put together:

Anderson connector incl. Handle £8.99( Genuine Anderson) Autosport show but can buy them from most kit car suppliers
Rubber cover to protect Anderson under car (if required) £4.99
Cable 1m correct gadget £6.00 local auto supplier
Battery end connector x 2 £1.25 local supplier

Total cost £21.23 inc. or £16.24 w/o rubber Anderson protector
Crimped in the vice and covered each end with shrink tube & slotted the relevant cable into the right orientation +/-...making sure at the Anderson end the metal connector inset is the right way up!

Simples

Buzz


Edited by Buzz Billsberry on Friday 9th December 11:25
So 50% of the price is component parts, then you need the tools, bill the time to find and obtain the parts, and skill and knowledge to fit the parts together. The price makes sense to me.

Moulder

1,648 posts

235 months

Friday 9th December 2011
quotequote all
.

Edited by Moulder on Friday 9th December 23:30

pringli

313 posts

297 months

Saturday 10th December 2011
quotequote all
Pete, which ampage connector is the match for the t350? Been meaning to convert spare leads to a T350 specific set for a while.

shep1001

4,619 posts

212 months

Saturday 10th December 2011
quotequote all
pringli said:
Pete, which ampage connector is the match for the t350? Been meaning to convert spare leads to a T350 specific set for a while.
Grey one. 175A


Shep

pringli

313 posts

297 months

Saturday 10th December 2011
quotequote all
Thanks Shep , will order now
ETA Would If I knew whether 6 or 8mm terms(both options grey) confused

Edited by pringli on Saturday 10th December 17:45

shep1001

4,619 posts

212 months

Sunday 11th December 2011
quotequote all
pringli said:
Thanks Shep , will order now
ETA Would If I knew whether 6 or 8mm terms(both options grey) confused

Edited by pringli on Saturday 10th December 17:45
I measured my spare and they are larger than that (about 12mm). If you can check it by part number its 0-431-75, I got mine from the shop below.

http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/0-431-75-175a-grey-d...



Shep

Edited by shep1001 on Sunday 11th December 13:32

pringli

313 posts

297 months

Sunday 11th December 2011
quotequote all
Thanks Shep

Buzz Billsberry

1,306 posts

254 months

Sunday 11th December 2011
quotequote all
Targarama said:
So 50% of the price is component parts, then you need the tools, bill the time to find and obtain the parts, and skill and knowledge to fit the parts together. The price makes sense to me.
Yep and I have all those,The Anderson & the cable are spares to jump the race car.So for those who like the mech side rather than the posing and polishing then it is the alternative and sorted in no more that 20 mins if you have the ability and tools of course.........Mechanicing in the TVR kitcar world is a rarity I know but someone's got to step away from the micro fibres and wax!

Buzz

NailedOn

3,118 posts

258 months

Tuesday 13th December 2011
quotequote all

How do I connect the lead to the connection point on the underside of the car?

Is this just brute strength and ignorance?
Do I have to jack the car up as there is not much room underneath to manipulate the leads?
Have I got the right leads? (The connector cover is red so I ordered for red.)
Thanks.

brogenville

941 posts

224 months

Tuesday 13th December 2011
quotequote all
Assuming its the right size and orientated the right way, the connector will just push on. Man up! wink