My First TVR Problem. Slow Crank = No Start
Discussion
Hi All,
well I've had my new Tamora for 2 hours now, and I can't get it to crank over fast enough to start!
It was delivered on a flat bed with a flat battery. OK. I should add that this is a project car so I won't be driving it straight away anyway.
Original battery dead. So I've tried jumping it off of a jump battery I have, disconnected the flat battery and then off another car with a very strong batt and the engine running. Either way it shows 13.6-14 volts on the dash, but as soon as I turn the key it has 2-3 very slow cranks and then stops, dash goes out and then tries to re-boot when I stop the key.
I've checked the 125A fuse and it's fine, the battery contacts to the jump leads seem very good, so I'm starting to suspect a dodgy starter motor.
Anyone got a suggestion? Please?!
I knew it's be emotional but I thought there would be some grace period!
well I've had my new Tamora for 2 hours now, and I can't get it to crank over fast enough to start!
It was delivered on a flat bed with a flat battery. OK. I should add that this is a project car so I won't be driving it straight away anyway.
Original battery dead. So I've tried jumping it off of a jump battery I have, disconnected the flat battery and then off another car with a very strong batt and the engine running. Either way it shows 13.6-14 volts on the dash, but as soon as I turn the key it has 2-3 very slow cranks and then stops, dash goes out and then tries to re-boot when I stop the key.
I've checked the 125A fuse and it's fine, the battery contacts to the jump leads seem very good, so I'm starting to suspect a dodgy starter motor.
Anyone got a suggestion? Please?!
I knew it's be emotional but I thought there would be some grace period!
ChrisPap said:
Hi All,
well I've had my new Tamora for 2 hours now, and I can't get it to crank over fast enough to start!
It was delivered on a flat bed with a flat battery. OK. I should add that this is a project car so I won't be driving it straight away anyway.
Original battery dead. So I've tried jumping it off of a jump battery I have, disconnected the flat battery and then off another car with a very strong batt and the engine running. Either way it shows 13.6-14 volts on the dash, but as soon as I turn the key it has 2-3 very slow cranks and then stops, dash goes out and then tries to re-boot when I stop the key.
I've checked the 125A fuse and it's fine, the battery contacts to the jump leads seem very good, so I'm starting to suspect a dodgy starter motor.
Anyone got a suggestion? Please?!
I knew it's be emotional but I thought there would be some grace period!
Think there are two 100amp fuses...have you checkd both? Not sure it would be a fuse issue if you are getting 'some' power though.well I've had my new Tamora for 2 hours now, and I can't get it to crank over fast enough to start!
It was delivered on a flat bed with a flat battery. OK. I should add that this is a project car so I won't be driving it straight away anyway.
Original battery dead. So I've tried jumping it off of a jump battery I have, disconnected the flat battery and then off another car with a very strong batt and the engine running. Either way it shows 13.6-14 volts on the dash, but as soon as I turn the key it has 2-3 very slow cranks and then stops, dash goes out and then tries to re-boot when I stop the key.
I've checked the 125A fuse and it's fine, the battery contacts to the jump leads seem very good, so I'm starting to suspect a dodgy starter motor.
Anyone got a suggestion? Please?!
I knew it's be emotional but I thought there would be some grace period!
From what you are describing it sounds like a faulty battery - sometimes they can show the right voltage but mis-behave under load? When you jump it can you read the voltage reading at the starter motor connections?
Good luck with by the way...sounds like it will be an interesting project.
ChrisPap said:
Hi All,
well I've had my new Tamora for 2 hours now, and I can't get it to crank over fast enough to start!
It was delivered on a flat bed with a flat battery. OK. I should add that this is a project car so I won't be driving it straight away anyway.
Original battery dead. So I've tried jumping it off of a jump battery I have, disconnected the flat battery and then off another car with a very strong batt and the engine running. Either way it shows 13.6-14 volts on the dash, but as soon as I turn the key it has 2-3 very slow cranks and then stops, dash goes out and then tries to re-boot when I stop the key.
I've checked the 125A fuse and it's fine, the battery contacts to the jump leads seem very good, so I'm starting to suspect a dodgy starter motor.
Anyone got a suggestion? Please?!
I knew it's be emotional but I thought there would be some grace period!
When you say you checked the fuse was that visually or with a meter? they fracture internally so look ok even when they are fooked. As others have said earths (behind the battery & off the alternator for starters) are worth checking too.well I've had my new Tamora for 2 hours now, and I can't get it to crank over fast enough to start!
It was delivered on a flat bed with a flat battery. OK. I should add that this is a project car so I won't be driving it straight away anyway.
Original battery dead. So I've tried jumping it off of a jump battery I have, disconnected the flat battery and then off another car with a very strong batt and the engine running. Either way it shows 13.6-14 volts on the dash, but as soon as I turn the key it has 2-3 very slow cranks and then stops, dash goes out and then tries to re-boot when I stop the key.
I've checked the 125A fuse and it's fine, the battery contacts to the jump leads seem very good, so I'm starting to suspect a dodgy starter motor.
Anyone got a suggestion? Please?!
I knew it's be emotional but I thought there would be some grace period!
Out of interest where did the car come from? Not seen the car you describe anywhere for sale?
Shep
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I read it and thought of course! The earth doesn't have good contact! I kid you not, I've had good Alfas for so long that I fear I've lost my touch for these gremlins! So I got home from work and started stripping, cleaning, copperslipping and re-assembling all earth contact points. Nothing! Still the same.
I was on the verge of pulling the spark plugs out and turning the engine over to see if 1. the starter motor was faulty or 2. the engine had some sort of hydro lock, because that's what it felt like. But I noticed whilst the airbox was off that the butterflies looked very closed. I know they are supposed to be, but I thought, what if they are fully closed and there is no air idle bypass, so causing a massive vacuum in the intake and so difficulty turning over.
Tried again with the throttle cracked open slightly and it was a bit more encouraging. Tried a few more times, but it took cranking with full throttle to get it to fire. Obviously I let off the gas as soon as it started to catch to (successfully) avoid revving it cold and without oil pressure. But idle was terrible on the verge of stalling and had to hold a crack on to get it to idle at 1000rpm until it warmed up a bit and then it's idle ok on its own.
Once it's back on the road I think it'll need to head off to TVR Power for a fettle!
I was on the verge of pulling the spark plugs out and turning the engine over to see if 1. the starter motor was faulty or 2. the engine had some sort of hydro lock, because that's what it felt like. But I noticed whilst the airbox was off that the butterflies looked very closed. I know they are supposed to be, but I thought, what if they are fully closed and there is no air idle bypass, so causing a massive vacuum in the intake and so difficulty turning over.
Tried again with the throttle cracked open slightly and it was a bit more encouraging. Tried a few more times, but it took cranking with full throttle to get it to fire. Obviously I let off the gas as soon as it started to catch to (successfully) avoid revving it cold and without oil pressure. But idle was terrible on the verge of stalling and had to hold a crack on to get it to idle at 1000rpm until it warmed up a bit and then it's idle ok on its own.
Once it's back on the road I think it'll need to head off to TVR Power for a fettle!
Edited by ChrisPap on Wednesday 11th July 22:41
shep1001 said:
When you say you checked the fuse was that visually or with a meter? they fracture internally so look ok even when they are fooked. As others have said earths (behind the battery & off the alternator for starters) are worth checking too.
Out of interest where did the car come from? Not seen the car you describe anywhere for sale?
Shep
Hi Shep, Out of interest where did the car come from? Not seen the car you describe anywhere for sale?
Shep
Checked with a meter, all was fine.
The car came from a salvage yard in Ashington, I think the guy is well known on here! Bu I was happy with the deal I struck and the car was exactly what I was after. Very clean example, interior is mint, no rust I can see in the chassis and outriggers, obvious signs of waxoiling, and the chassis and all the suspension was straight except for the LF track rod, to be replaced tomorrow for 20 quid.
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