4.3 owners - what are your water running temps like?
Discussion
Just out of curiosity really, I'm qtr way through running in my T350 4.3 rebuild and am seeing water temps on the move of around 92-94 (a couple of degrees higher than pre-rebuild) but hot idle sees this rise to 95-97, sometimes touching 100 - fans on but not cooling enough to trigger them off. Is this normal that the 4.3 runs that bit hotter? I plan to do a couple of Euro jaunts (S. France) where the air temp really will be hotter and thinner so want to ensure no problems arise when I do.
Could it just be a symptom of running it in and it'll sort itself out later? Probably daft questions but safer to check.
Could it just be a symptom of running it in and it'll sort itself out later? Probably daft questions but safer to check.
Tony, can't answer your question but I know that the dash readout can be different to the actual readout, about 4 to 5 degrees on mine as Dom told me the dash and ECU use different sensors apparantly.
If you want to pop over some time can quickly plug in the laptop and see what temps the ECU is showing.
Either way glad you have it back and hope you get to make good use of it now.
If you want to pop over some time can quickly plug in the laptop and see what temps the ECU is showing.
Either way glad you have it back and hope you get to make good use of it now.
Zippee said:
Just out of curiosity really, I'm qtr way through running in my T350 4.3 rebuild and am seeing water temps on the move of around 92-94 (a couple of degrees higher than pre-rebuild) but hot idle sees this rise to 95-97, sometimes touching 100 - fans on but not cooling enough to trigger them off. Is this normal that the 4.3 runs that bit hotter? I plan to do a couple of Euro jaunts (S. France) where the air temp really will be hotter and thinner so want to ensure no problems arise when I do.
Could it just be a symptom of running it in and it'll sort itself out later? Probably daft questions but safer to check.
Mine is about the same as what you're getting but doesn't get to 100 very often and the fans bring it down pretty quickly, the alloy rad helps too. I am planning to go down through France and Italy also but because the fans keep it under control I am not worried. The temp under in the engine bay is generally higher and this is giving me a bit of a hot start issue and misfire in traffic. Dom is taking a look at this when it's in for it's service. Thinking maybe decats which should reduce temps.Could it just be a symptom of running it in and it'll sort itself out later? Probably daft questions but safer to check.
There is a company, a direct competitor to the supplier and originator of this conversion, who have been playing with new fans. They keep the engine cooler than standard even if the radiator is totally blocked....apparently.
I do not have first hand experience of these, I'm only relaying what I have been told. I'm also not trying to rain on anyones parade - honest.
Just thought you should know! I know I'll be looking at this when the car is in for MOT/Service (etc).
I do not have first hand experience of these, I'm only relaying what I have been told. I'm also not trying to rain on anyones parade - honest.
Just thought you should know! I know I'll be looking at this when the car is in for MOT/Service (etc).
Don1 said:
There is a company, a direct competitor to the supplier and originator of this conversion, who have been playing with new fans. They keep the engine cooler than standard even if the radiator is totally blocked....apparently.
I can see how a more efficient/powerful fan can cool the water quicker by drawing more air through the rad, but with a blocked rad? How is that gong to work if water isn't circulating?sidpinup said:
I can see how a more efficient/powerful fan can cool the water quicker by drawing more air through the rad, but with a blocked rad? How is that gong to work if water isn't circulating?
I think Don is talking about my set up. As such, rather than saying 'blocked', 'blanked off' is maybe a better term. I'm running a set of ceramic, brushless fans that aren't yet on the open market but in test among a few rally and race car builders such as ProDrive.
They are controlled by the ECU which is programmed with a temp that you want to run the engine at and it then runs the fans at the rate requires to achieve this.
The fans themselves can draw up to 80 amps which I believe is double the standard SPALs in the Tivs and this extra capacity combined with the ECU controlling does appear to work amazingly well.
You can be running the car hard and then hit a Rouen style traffic queue and the temp climbs as you'd expect from suddenly stopping in hot conditions with a hot engine but the speed at which the fans then bring the temp back to the base level is entertaining to watch.
ProDrive are using a single fan of this type to cool all parts of their Mini rally car.
As the S6 engines produce more power then it was felt the traditional weak point of cooling in Tivs could be addressed by looking at more modern products. This particular solution was researched for the forced induction option and to deal with the massive heat produced that TVR never got to terms with following traditional paths.
There are also some non H2O coolants available which transfer heat out of the engine more efficiently than water as well as more modern rads that take the heat out of the coolant more efficiently.
So I think there are plenty of 21st century solutions available for Tivs and at varying costs and simplicities if needed.
Thanks all - I'll get Mat to have a look in a couple of weeks else Dom can take a look when it goes in for the 1k running in service. Only other problem I have is hot start, the engine does a half turn, almost as if the battery is dead before a couple of hard thumps and then it catches. A tad embarassing when everyone is looking at you expecting a roar on start. Again, I'll mention to Dom as it now has the new heavy duty starter on it.
Kev - are you about Saturday?
Kev - are you about Saturday?
I have a different hot start issue but still embarrassing, cheering bikers at one pub when it went third try!. Cranks no problem and starts but dies imidiately and will only run over 3000 rpm and lumpy. Goes away after a minute or so but still takes a few starts to catch it. I wonder if it's vapour lock?
ChrisPap said:
Zipee, Sounds like you need a new battery. I had exactly the same thing with my car (not 4.3 or HD starter), but the battery, although it seemed fine, it just coudn't deliver the cranking amps.
I used to get this on the Griff, but the battery was mint, could it also be a poor earth or an issue with the 100A fuse?DonkeyApple said:
ChrisPap said:
Zipee, Sounds like you need a new battery. I had exactly the same thing with my car (not 4.3 or HD starter), but the battery, although it seemed fine, it just coudn't deliver the cranking amps.
I used to get this on the Griff, but the battery was mint, could it also be a poor earth or an issue with the 100A fuse?Zippee said:
Only other problem I have is hot start, the engine does a half turn, almost as if the battery is dead before a couple of hard thumps and then it catches.
Hello Tony,please keep us up to date with this issue. I have the same since the 4.3 rebuild and wanted to buy the HD starter Motor from Dom although the last Sagaris including mine should have the more powerful motor. I have the problem with around 1 of 20 starts, but most times when the engine is hot.
Oliver
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