Uprating cooling system

[Mattt]

Never had a problem in the UK, but since moving it to Australia the car is running a little warm (easily will hit 100+ degrees).

I'm looking to upgrade the cooling system to stop any potential problems in future, so normally I'd look to an uprated radiator - but I recall hearing before that the standard radiator is fine and there are no gains from a new ally one?

I also remember reading about someone fitting uprated fans (brushless?), so any info would be appreciated.

[Diablos-666]

Not sure about space but a larger radiator will help due to increased surface area.

Maybe someone has done it before?

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

[Zippee]

I have uprated fans in my T350 following my rebuild earlier this year, supplied by Dom at TVR Power. The difference in draw of air is very noticeable and you can suck a sheet of paper into the intake fairly easily. May be worth a chat to him to see how much he can supply a pair to Oz for?

[NTEL]

This is a really cool upgrade developed by Trackvroad. Sorts out all the air locking and circulation issues. Well made and well thought out....

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=35764979098...

[D14 AYS]

I have also had Powers upgraded fans fitted to my Sag, very good they are to, They give twice the airflow over the originals.

[Don1]

Racing Green have produced some brushless fans, which will still keep an engine cool, even if the front of the radiator is completely covered (apparently).

[Robertjp]

Dom has the uprated fans on his site....

http://www.tvrpower.co.uk/store/slug/upgrade-cooli...

wonder if they fit Tuscans....

[TVR_owner]

Change the thermostat to one that opens at around 70 deg C, get an alloy rad built, if you can improve the area of the rad, this will also help. Look at alternate cooling mediums. These will all help.

Fans will help for when the car is stationary or moving slowly, not when travelling at fun speeds.

[TOV!E]

The new waterless system is what you need, not cheap but will never boil over

[ChrisPap]

A little while ago I spent 4 years developing the motorsport cooling systems. The application is bit different but I've also been playing with cars (mostly in Sydney) so I can offer you my experience.

First step is to check the health of your current radiator. Life in the UK is hard on steel or brass cored rads. So check out your current health. Assuming your rad was in the car for a few years before you exported it).

If that's ok, drain, flush, drain and then refill the colling system with fresh new coolant. Water with Redline water weter can offer benefits to cooling performance.

If you're still in trouble you need to figur out- is it a problem when stuck in traffic or when moving at speeed. If it's at speed, intake flow vanes (like a sag) should help a bit, but the main thing will be to get a radiator with more heat rejection capacity. In this case, you won't fit a bigger Rad in a T350 without major fibreglass work to the car, so the solution to go for a thicker core.

If it's a traffic issue, still refresh the coolant and the Rad if it's perished, but then you're looking at new high flow fans, and a lower thermostat in conjunction with always on/manual overide fans as a last resort.

hth,
Chris

Edited by ChrisPap on Friday 16th November 20:38

[yanmar]

Tovie mentioned a waterless system I was going to use this in my engine (cost around £200 for water removal chemical and new coolant ) but it does not boil till 150 degree and has freezing point of minus 40 degree. still might go for it as it would solve alot of problems when it gets warm . A friend has it in his MGB V8 and a E Type and recons it works really well. Think he is at the classic car show this weekend with Clayton Classics. Going back to orignal post , if I lived in a hot climate , it would be my choice for coolant

[Geoff Ashcroft]

Yes, the waterless stuff is from Evans Coolants - not cheap, but looks interesting. The prep liquid is hygroscopic, which collects any remaining water from the coolant system and allows you a clean fill of the new coolant. Was looking at the bumf on it yesterday at the classic car show. It seems to avoid generating system pressure too, which should help to save hoses. Bloke on their stand did tell me it runs 4-5 degs C warmer than water-based coolants as it is not quite as efficient at transfering heat as water, but its formulation seems to avoid boiling and as a result, doesn't create any steam or pressure in the head. And I am told this also helps to eliminate detonation and localised hot spots. Anyone on here been brave enough to try it?

[gacksen]

as for the fans are those SPAL ones ?