Has anyone fitted a battery isolator to their t350
Discussion
Hi.
Hoping to pick up car next week - YIPPEE
And now just trying to think ahead. I am assuming that the alarm immobiliser will drain the battery within 3 days if not used just like my Elise. On that i fitted a battey isolator (cut off switch). cheap to buy & relatively easy on the elise bar the backache.
Understand that the t350 battey is also hidden in the bowels of the car & wonderred how othes may have done this.
Oh yes & just to stop wasted posts yes i know it will turn off alarm etc but the car could still not be started so i am happy with this solution. eg after 4 months my elise still started.
Anyone please?
Regards
Mark
Hoping to pick up car next week - YIPPEE
And now just trying to think ahead. I am assuming that the alarm immobiliser will drain the battery within 3 days if not used just like my Elise. On that i fitted a battey isolator (cut off switch). cheap to buy & relatively easy on the elise bar the backache.
Understand that the t350 battey is also hidden in the bowels of the car & wonderred how othes may have done this.
Oh yes & just to stop wasted posts yes i know it will turn off alarm etc but the car could still not be started so i am happy with this solution. eg after 4 months my elise still started.
Anyone please?
Regards
Mark
There is a battery bypass connector (if that's what you call em) inside the passenger footwell where you could quite easily fit a switch. But then if the device is a simple switch you would have to use the secret method to enter the car. So you need a wireless switch, I think they call them battery brains or something.
The other thing to be careful off is whether disabling battery and hence the immobiliser and alarm also disables your insurance. Despite the fact that you are replacing one immobilising device with another and that the main immobiliser/Alarm returns to action as soon as the battery immobiliser is defeated. IMO this adds to the security but insurers will likely think otherwise.
If you do fit such a device please please make sure the key is nowhere near the ignition when you use it or you will definitely fry your dash ecu with the voltage spike.
I didn't have a problem with battery drain on my elise but it was a 2010 model, even after leaving it for a couple weeks. 3 days sounds like something else/more is buggered.
The other thing to be careful off is whether disabling battery and hence the immobiliser and alarm also disables your insurance. Despite the fact that you are replacing one immobilising device with another and that the main immobiliser/Alarm returns to action as soon as the battery immobiliser is defeated. IMO this adds to the security but insurers will likely think otherwise.
If you do fit such a device please please make sure the key is nowhere near the ignition when you use it or you will definitely fry your dash ecu with the voltage spike.
I didn't have a problem with battery drain on my elise but it was a 2010 model, even after leaving it for a couple weeks. 3 days sounds like something else/more is buggered.
Disconnecting the battery really isn't a good idea; something will always play up afterwards (doors, dashboard, windows...) and can be complicated to sort. You'd be much better advised to use an battery conditioner instead. If you have electric lighting in your garage, a qualified electrician may struggle to add power but an unqualified one should have no problem at all 

MOM said:
Is the 350 sensitive to battey connection?
Not as long as the car is switched Off. If the key is in the ignition and turned into the first On position, then a voltage spike from the battery suddenly coming online can reach and fry the sensitive dash ecu memory. I did mine in by mistake even though I knew its a no no... If it happens you have to send it away to be repaired and the mileage re-programmed back in. Mine is with the guy that designed the thing right now!

Just mentioning it again because a battery brain transmitter button thing might make it easier to make the mistake.
I wouldn't say this is a particular TVR issue, my made in Japan S2000 came with a warning saying not to jump the car with key in ignition. I suppose any other car is the same.
Cheers
S
jrb43 said:
Disconnecting the battery really isn't a good idea; something will always play up afterwards (doors, dashboard, windows...) and can be complicated to sort. You'd be much better advised to use an battery conditioner instead. If you have electric lighting in your garage, a qualified electrician may struggle to add power but an unqualified one should have no problem at all 
I wouldn't advise taking a power feed from a light socket - lack of earth being one reason, and the wiring generally isn't up to the same spec as a proper socket. You might be ok as long as you fitted a lower rated fuse into your plug that you plan to use - but that doesn't stop other people trying to put high loads through the socket and burning your house down.
Hi Mark - I have one on my 2005 T350C in the engine bay. Once you get your car, you will be able to work out how to pop open the bonnet from the outside. So the fact the electrics are all switched off and the doors don't work is not a problem. I would look at getting an accumate battery condition though.
TVRinBFG said:
Hi Mark - I have one on my 2005 T350C in the engine bay. Once you get your car, you will be able to work out how to pop open the bonnet from the outside. So the fact the electrics are all switched off and the doors don't work is not a problem. I would look at getting an accumate battery condition though.
I definitely agree with TVRinBFG an accumate is the way forward, you can wire the female socket end strait to the battery and just plug it in when you put her to bed.Donski
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