power steering suddenly gone...
power steering suddenly gone...
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Discussion

Jonahhex

Original Poster:

16 posts

148 months

Friday 27th September 2013
quotequote all
Hi,
Sorry for my Swedish English...
The power steering on my T350C doesnt work. The fuse (the same as for the lambda) was broken so I replaced it. When I started the fuse broka again. Any idea on what cause it? I am completely new to this car so please explain in a "for dummies" way...

Best regards Daniel

shep1001

4,617 posts

210 months

Friday 27th September 2013
quotequote all

The relay (in the grey holder in the engine bay by the oil tank) may be faulty or the electric pump may be broken. Unplug the pump at the connector which is near the relay and try changing the fuse again and see if it blows. I guess it it also possible there is a wiring fault causing the fuse to blow if there is a short circuit somewhere.

Not very easy to diagnose without seeing it sorry.

Andrew

S6OOH

1,068 posts

278 months

Friday 27th September 2013
quotequote all
Hi

When mine went it was the 100 amp fuse located in the battery box (Tamora)

Richard

sascha

270 posts

270 months

Friday 27th September 2013
quotequote all
.. power steering is for girls only biglaugh

Jonahhex

Original Poster:

16 posts

148 months

Friday 27th September 2013
quotequote all
Is it ok to drive the car without? I realize that it takes som muscles but does it damage the car?

SteveSPG

2,120 posts

223 months

Friday 27th September 2013
quotequote all
on your car the steering is a seperate electric pump. you can drive without it, but you need to see if it is a short as there must be a reason for the fuse to blow.

Walford

2,259 posts

187 months

Friday 27th September 2013
quotequote all
Citroen saxo/Peugeot 106

geoffphead

637 posts

222 months

Friday 27th September 2013
quotequote all
Jonahhex said:
Is it ok to drive the car without? I realize that it takes som muscles but does it damage the car?
I drove my Tam for about 8months with power steering off and no damage, it was great work out too

Jonahhex

Original Poster:

16 posts

148 months

Saturday 28th September 2013
quotequote all
Hi again and thanks for your inoput. No luck yet...
I checked the fuse by the battery (100amps) and I disconnected the pump just below the relay. The fuse (no 36)still blows as I start the car. How do I check the relay? Could it possibly be the lambda that is casuing the fuse to blow? It is the same fuse...

Is the relay from some old french car?

Keep on trying...


shep1001

4,617 posts

210 months

Saturday 28th September 2013
quotequote all
Jonahhex said:
Hi again and thanks for your inoput. No luck yet...
I checked the fuse by the battery (100amps) and I disconnected the pump just below the relay. The fuse (no 36)still blows as I start the car. How do I check the relay? Could it possibly be the lambda that is casuing the fuse to blow? It is the same fuse...

Is the relay from some old french car?

Keep on trying...
Eliminate the Lambda's (there are 2, one on each bank of cylinders) by unplugging them. It will run like a rattly bag of spanners but you only need to start and stop the engine to see if they are the fault or if you have a loom issue.

Shep

Jonahhex

Original Poster:

16 posts

148 months

Saturday 28th September 2013
quotequote all
Thanks,

How do I find the Lambda sensors? I assume that I only have to unplug the power supply. not remove the actual sensor?

Just bought my TVR so I will probably spend some time here...

shep1001

4,617 posts

210 months

Saturday 28th September 2013
quotequote all
Jonahhex said:
Thanks,

How do I find the Lambda sensors? I assume that I only have to unplug the power supply. not remove the actual sensor?

Just bought my TVR so I will probably spend some time here...
Open the bonnet. 2 black plugs on the passenger side of the engine bay kind of near the front of the engine where the cam cover ends. 4 wires in them. Just squeeze the plug clip and pull it apart.

Jonahhex

Original Poster:

16 posts

148 months

Sunday 29th September 2013
quotequote all
Thanks,
When i disconnected the one with blue cable nothing happened oter than that the fuse blew. The engine didnt seem to be affected (just a few seconds on idle). When I disconnected the other one, with the yellow cable the car barely started and was running really poorly but the fuse didnt blow. I dont get it...
If the lambda with the yellow cable is broken it shouldnt be affected when I disconnect it?

Any ideas?

shep1001

4,617 posts

210 months

Sunday 29th September 2013
quotequote all
Jonahhex said:
Thanks,
When i disconnected the one with blue cable nothing happened oter than that the fuse blew. The engine didnt seem to be affected (just a few seconds on idle). When I disconnected the other one, with the yellow cable the car barely started and was running really poorly but the fuse didnt blow. I dont get it...
If the lambda with the yellow cable is broken it shouldnt be affected when I disconnect it?

Any ideas?
Garage time I think unless you are confident changing the lambda yourself. Whatever the problem it would appear to be linked to a lambda. The fuse that keeps blowing is the lambda heater fuse. I would do them both as other than the cost of the part, there is very little labour in the installation as they are next to each other on the manifolds.

Shep

Jonahhex

Original Poster:

16 posts

148 months

Sunday 29th September 2013
quotequote all
I agree,

Can I drive it to the garage or is there risk of other damages than the lambdas?

Thanks alot for your help!


shep1001

4,617 posts

210 months

Sunday 29th September 2013
quotequote all
Jonahhex said:
I agree,

Can I drive it to the garage or is there risk of other damages than the lambdas?

Thanks alot for your help!
The honest answer is I don't know. Does it run OK without the fuse in place and the PS not running? If its the lambda heater circuit that has failed, my limited understanding is that this is used to achieve the full operating temperature of the sensor sooner. When at the correct temperature the heater serves no additional function as the switching of the voltage that ultimately controls the air/fuel mix is on a separate circuit.