Passenger door won't open/close electronically - solenoid?
Discussion
I have been away to Italy and not long got back, so I thought I'd give the Tamora a run, picking my step-son up from work.
The passenger door opened and he got in, but realised his seatbelt was stuck, so tried opening the door again - but nothing, no noise from the solenoid at all.
Is this a simple case of buying another solenoid and changing it, if yes, is it difficult? I have a non functioning passenger door at the moment....
Cheers,
Chris
The passenger door opened and he got in, but realised his seatbelt was stuck, so tried opening the door again - but nothing, no noise from the solenoid at all.
Is this a simple case of buying another solenoid and changing it, if yes, is it difficult? I have a non functioning passenger door at the moment....
Cheers,
Chris
MartH70 said:
Don't know about the solenoids but the first thing you need to check is that one of the buttons isn't stuck in the made position ie stuck in. Had this on ours and only realised when everything was in pieces. Used wd40 to clean it up and fine after that.
Cheers
Martin
Cheers for that. I'm not sure that is the case with mine, as I can press the button in and can hear a slight click. Do they come apart easily, BTW?Cheers
Martin
Hi Chris
Is the door stuck because the seat belt is trapped in the door?
I would try opening the door via the Red lever, be careful the window wont drop so needs to opened slowly and gently or remove roof first?
Then cycle the switch a few times to see if the solenoid is just a bit sticky.
Is the door stuck because the seat belt is trapped in the door?
I would try opening the door via the Red lever, be careful the window wont drop so needs to opened slowly and gently or remove roof first?
Then cycle the switch a few times to see if the solenoid is just a bit sticky.
T66ORA said:
Hi Chris
Is the door stuck because the seat belt is trapped in the door?
I would try opening the door via the Red lever, be careful the window wont drop so needs to opened slowly and gently or remove roof first?
Then cycle the switch a few times to see if the solenoid is just a bit sticky.
Hiya Is the door stuck because the seat belt is trapped in the door?
I would try opening the door via the Red lever, be careful the window wont drop so needs to opened slowly and gently or remove roof first?
Then cycle the switch a few times to see if the solenoid is just a bit sticky.

Yes, we opened the door using the emergency lever - the door won't open using the wing mirror or internal button - there's just nothing there! This is why I assumed it is the solenoid at fault.
chris watton said:
Hiya 
Yes, we opened the door using the emergency lever - the door won't open using the wing mirror or internal button - there's just nothing there! This is why I assumed it is the solenoid at fault.

Yes, we opened the door using the emergency lever - the door won't open using the wing mirror or internal button - there's just nothing there! This is why I assumed it is the solenoid at fault.
Don`t think the doors are individually fused so solenoid is likely?Still try cycling the door manually and see if you car hear the solenoid move via the cable.
The only other thing you could try is, disconnect the door ECU for 5 minutes or so, and retry?
Good luck
Cheers, I shall try the fuse first, after trying the switches again. failing that, I guess I'll have to buy another solenoid. Hope it's not too difficult to replace....
Assuming this is the fella:
http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-car-part-m1253...
Assuming this is the fella:
http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-car-part-m1253...
chris watton said:
Cheers, I shall try the fuse first, after trying the switches again. failing that, I guess I'll have to buy another solenoid. Hope it's not too difficult to replace....
Assuming this is the fella:
http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-car-part-m1253...
It is abit of a pain in the arse, at least it is on the T350. However the part is available from Maplins, you just need the two wire version.Assuming this is the fella:
http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-car-part-m1253...
I've just checked the price on that link, Maplins are £8.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/2-wire-door-lock-motor-123...
Edited by NWTony on Sunday 10th November 20:36
NWTony said:
It is abit of a pain in the arse, at least it is on the T350. However the part is available from Maplins, you just need the two wire version.
I've just checked the price on that link, Maplins are £8.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/2-wire-door-lock-motor-123...
Thanks for that, have ordered two of those solenoids from Maplin, quite a difference in price!I've just checked the price on that link, Maplins are £8.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/2-wire-door-lock-motor-123...
Edited by NWTony on Sunday 10th November 20:36
I shall also check the button connections in the door loom - I managed to completely strip and re-upholster my wife's MG, so I kind of know what to expect...
Just out of interest, is there a good website listing (and selling) the various fuses?
chris watton said:
Can you still buy them? (If that is the problem)
The ECU's yes, usually on an exchange basis but I would send it off to Paul Smith TVR electronics guru and have him repair it I suspect it would be cheaper. ME0593 is the part about £100 exchange if you decide to go that route if its busted.Edited by shep1001 on Sunday 10th November 21:11
I'd swap sides on the ecu's first like shep says, easiest first step.
But you said "slight" click, does it feel different to other buttons?
I managed to get myself locked out shortly after buying the car, eventually found it to be the central locking button stuck On. The button still had some spring but wouldnt click, got at it through the glove box, undid the nasty rare size small bolts, took it apart, checked for clickyness, put it back together and lubed the button, fine ever since... then again the button hasnt been pressed since
But you said "slight" click, does it feel different to other buttons?
I managed to get myself locked out shortly after buying the car, eventually found it to be the central locking button stuck On. The button still had some spring but wouldnt click, got at it through the glove box, undid the nasty rare size small bolts, took it apart, checked for clickyness, put it back together and lubed the button, fine ever since... then again the button hasnt been pressed since

chris watton said:
Thank you 
Am sure I have heard of Paul Smith before, but can't seem to find a website or contact details when searching his name....
Oh yes, where is the solenoid located, BTW?..
Behind the door lock. paul@smith101.freeserve.co.uk. Not sure if his mobile is his business one or not but you should get him on the email, sorry can't remember his website address.
Am sure I have heard of Paul Smith before, but can't seem to find a website or contact details when searching his name....
Oh yes, where is the solenoid located, BTW?..
OK, had a fiddle with the switches, still nothing, just a click (presumably coming from the relay, so that and the switches must be OK)
Just checked the wires, all look in place:

My problem now is replacing the solenoid, I assume it's behind the metal latch plate:

I tried to remove the silver plate, but that's never coming off! So, I am assuming the solenoid can only be got at by taking the seat out and getting to it via the inside. Is that right?
Just checked the wires, all look in place:

My problem now is replacing the solenoid, I assume it's behind the metal latch plate:

I tried to remove the silver plate, but that's never coming off! So, I am assuming the solenoid can only be got at by taking the seat out and getting to it via the inside. Is that right?
Chris , I misunderstood, I presumed you meant the door mirror button, does the door open from the outside??
To get the solenoid out you have to remove that chrome trim plate, that exposes the M6 cap screws that hold the lock mechanism to the B post, undo those.
THEN, inside the car, you have to remove the trim around the seat belt, this will gain you access to the void within the B post where you can pull the lock plate assembly out and get at the solenoid.
To get the solenoid out you have to remove that chrome trim plate, that exposes the M6 cap screws that hold the lock mechanism to the B post, undo those.
THEN, inside the car, you have to remove the trim around the seat belt, this will gain you access to the void within the B post where you can pull the lock plate assembly out and get at the solenoid.
Edited by Ant. on Monday 11th November 14:16
chris watton said:
OK, had a fiddle with the switches, still nothing, just a click (presumably coming from the relay, so that and the switches must be OK)
Just checked the wires, all look in place:

My problem now is replacing the solenoid, I assume it's behind the metal latch plate:

I tried to remove the silver plate, but that's never coming off! So, I am assuming the solenoid can only be got at by taking the seat out and getting to it via the inside. Is that right?
At some point you will need to remove that plate as you can't access the door micro switch or the bolts that hold the lock in place . Carefully drill the heads off the screws and prize the plate off (its normally siliconed in place) use a pair of needle nose pliers or wire cutters (yes really) to wind out the thread stumps left behind. You might be able to swap the motor with the seat in place but the panel where the seat belt real is housed needs to be removed.Just checked the wires, all look in place:

My problem now is replacing the solenoid, I assume it's behind the metal latch plate:

I tried to remove the silver plate, but that's never coming off! So, I am assuming the solenoid can only be got at by taking the seat out and getting to it via the inside. Is that right?
Edited by shep1001 on Monday 11th November 14:17
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