Discussion
Hi, my speedo stopped working. It seemed to follow the classic signs of gradual deterioration as reported in other threads here. It started flickering up and down until it eventually stopped after a few days. The needle still works as in it goes up and down on startup.
I tested the sensor plug for a power feed and it reads 12.4v, so I thought the sensor was caput and went ahead and ordered RG's "newer/better" version, after much nuckle bleeding I managed to replace it, but it still did not work, some more nuckle bleeding to set the gap closer (~0.3 mm), and it still does not work.
The sensor is on the same fuse as the heater led and mirror ecu, it was ok but I replaced it anyway. I know the sensor signal wire goes to door ecus for locking when moving, but everything seems ok there... did the disconnect/reconnect routine.
Any ideas? I've run out of those and have already spent £100 on a sensor I probably didn't need.
Suspecting the dash ecu now, but I'd rather not have it make second pricey trip for repair.
The good news is that while investigating I elliminated my wacky dash sensor readings by tightening the earth in the pass footwel.
I tested the sensor plug for a power feed and it reads 12.4v, so I thought the sensor was caput and went ahead and ordered RG's "newer/better" version, after much nuckle bleeding I managed to replace it, but it still did not work, some more nuckle bleeding to set the gap closer (~0.3 mm), and it still does not work.
The sensor is on the same fuse as the heater led and mirror ecu, it was ok but I replaced it anyway. I know the sensor signal wire goes to door ecus for locking when moving, but everything seems ok there... did the disconnect/reconnect routine.
Any ideas? I've run out of those and have already spent £100 on a sensor I probably didn't need.
Suspecting the dash ecu now, but I'd rather not have it make second pricey trip for repair.
The good news is that while investigating I elliminated my wacky dash sensor readings by tightening the earth in the pass footwel.
SergSC said:
Hi, my speedo stopped working. It seemed to follow the classic signs of gradual deterioration as reported in other threads here. It started flickering up and down until it eventually stopped after a few days. The needle still works as in it goes up and down on startup.
I tested the sensor plug for a power feed and it reads 12.4v, so I thought the sensor was caput and went ahead and ordered RG's "newer/better" version, after much nuckle bleeding I managed to replace it, but it still did not work, some more nuckle bleeding to set the gap closer (~0.3 mm), and it still does not work.
The sensor is on the same fuse as the heater led and mirror ecu, it was ok but I replaced it anyway. I know the sensor signal wire goes to door ecus for locking when moving, but everything seems ok there... did the disconnect/reconnect routine.
Any ideas? I've run out of those and have already spent £100 on a sensor I probably didn't need.
Suspecting the dash ecu now, but I'd rather not have it make second pricey trip for repair.
The good news is that while investigating I elliminated my wacky dash sensor readings by tightening the earth in the pass footwel.
I would check that the 2 ribbon cables are securely attached to the clock pack and the ECU. If you have a spare pair of 25pin cables its worth swapping these for the ribbon cables in case they are damaged, even buying them for a £10 is cheaper than sending off the dash & ECU only to find out the problem is with your ribbon cables :roll eyes:. Lastly are you sure you have re-wired the connector correctly OR that the supplied connector was wired correctly as a direct replacement? - diagram & part number here for reference: I tested the sensor plug for a power feed and it reads 12.4v, so I thought the sensor was caput and went ahead and ordered RG's "newer/better" version, after much nuckle bleeding I managed to replace it, but it still did not work, some more nuckle bleeding to set the gap closer (~0.3 mm), and it still does not work.
The sensor is on the same fuse as the heater led and mirror ecu, it was ok but I replaced it anyway. I know the sensor signal wire goes to door ecus for locking when moving, but everything seems ok there... did the disconnect/reconnect routine.
Any ideas? I've run out of those and have already spent £100 on a sensor I probably didn't need.
Suspecting the dash ecu now, but I'd rather not have it make second pricey trip for repair.
The good news is that while investigating I elliminated my wacky dash sensor readings by tightening the earth in the pass footwel.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
If the dials sweep OK is less likely to be a fault with the clock pack. Does the digital speedo work? if not it might be a dodgy sensor?
Shep
Edited by shep1001 on Sunday 2nd March 18:02
I have an intermittent problem with mine, too. The digital and analogue displays are working (as the digital shows 0mph when the speedo stops working - quite disconcerting when travelling at speed...).
I was hoping it was the transducer, but after reading this, perhaps it's something else.
I was hoping it was the transducer, but after reading this, perhaps it's something else.
The digital doesnt work either.
I got the pod out and re-seated all connectors, everything looks like brand new in there. I also looked for the plug with the grey wire going into the dash ecu and reseated, but no change.
I got sensor from here:
http://www.thetvrshop.com/TVR/Parts_details/TVR%20...
Wired as it says in the item description.
I was just watching a great youtube video from scanner danner, I believe this sensor is the type that generates a low voltage square wave, I guess I need to tap into that wire and see if it is alive when the wheels are moving (I'm using a jack and stands so huge faff...) dont think I can use my crappy multimeter for that as its way too slow.
I got the pod out and re-seated all connectors, everything looks like brand new in there. I also looked for the plug with the grey wire going into the dash ecu and reseated, but no change.
I got sensor from here:
http://www.thetvrshop.com/TVR/Parts_details/TVR%20...
Wired as it says in the item description.
I was just watching a great youtube video from scanner danner, I believe this sensor is the type that generates a low voltage square wave, I guess I need to tap into that wire and see if it is alive when the wheels are moving (I'm using a jack and stands so huge faff...) dont think I can use my crappy multimeter for that as its way too slow.
[quote=SergSC]The digital doesnt work either.
I got the pod out and re-seated all connectors, everything looks like brand new in there. I also looked for the plug with the grey wire going into the dash ecu and reseated, but no change.
I got sensor from here:
http://www.thetvrshop.com/TVR/Parts_details/TVR%20...
Wired as it says in the item description.
I was just watching a great youtube video from scanner danner, I believe this sensor is the type that generates a low voltage square wave, I guess I need to tap into that wire and see if it is alive when the wheels are moving (I'm using a jack and stands so huge faff...) dont think I can use my crappy multimeter for that as its way too slow.
Seems all a bit too much trouble to me, the old Ford part works just fine. Neither speedo reading would suggest the problem is the sender.
I got the pod out and re-seated all connectors, everything looks like brand new in there. I also looked for the plug with the grey wire going into the dash ecu and reseated, but no change.
I got sensor from here:
http://www.thetvrshop.com/TVR/Parts_details/TVR%20...
Wired as it says in the item description.
I was just watching a great youtube video from scanner danner, I believe this sensor is the type that generates a low voltage square wave, I guess I need to tap into that wire and see if it is alive when the wheels are moving (I'm using a jack and stands so huge faff...) dont think I can use my crappy multimeter for that as its way too slow.
Seems all a bit too much trouble to me, the old Ford part works just fine. Neither speedo reading would suggest the problem is the sender.
As far as I can tell these are the possibilities:
- dud replacement, I got this "better" one because there are others reports of multiple failures with the standard part. I'm always inclined to put in "better" components in their place. The original did not look water proof, it can enter the sensor through the little not quite tight cable grommet at the rear of the sensor... anyway thats what I told myself....
- grey wire signal not reaching the dash ecu.
- dash ecu buggered again... If I can see a signal on the grey this would point toward the ecu.
- maybe gap is too close now, maybe started too close already on the first attempt... but I would have expected to see some sign of life.
Need to have it on a lift so I can turn the wheels
But I think l've bled enough for what is supposed to be a simple job, so I'll be taking it to someone who knows what they are doing... and report back with what it actually was. Hate all those no finish threads with a passion...
- dud replacement, I got this "better" one because there are others reports of multiple failures with the standard part. I'm always inclined to put in "better" components in their place. The original did not look water proof, it can enter the sensor through the little not quite tight cable grommet at the rear of the sensor... anyway thats what I told myself....
- grey wire signal not reaching the dash ecu.
- dash ecu buggered again... If I can see a signal on the grey this would point toward the ecu.
- maybe gap is too close now, maybe started too close already on the first attempt... but I would have expected to see some sign of life.
Need to have it on a lift so I can turn the wheels
But I think l've bled enough for what is supposed to be a simple job, so I'll be taking it to someone who knows what they are doing... and report back with what it actually was. Hate all those no finish threads with a passion...
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