Where is the infamous 100Amp located
Where is the infamous 100Amp located
Author
Discussion

chris watton

Original Poster:

22,545 posts

280 months

Friday 20th June 2014
quotequote all
I have a 125 Amp fuse, as it seems this is a good (and cheap) upgrade to replace the 100Amp.

Does anyone know where this is located, and is it a straight forward job to change it?

TVRWazzock

1,653 posts

243 months

Friday 20th June 2014
quotequote all
Under the air box.

You have to take the air box off to get at the fuse.

I had the fuse holder moved from under the air box to the side of my engine bay so that it is an easy job to change the fuse.

Zippee

13,891 posts

254 months

Friday 20th June 2014
quotequote all
As per Mr Wazzock it's tucked under the airbox so the whole thing needs to be removed. Personally I'd leave it, they don't fail that often and why uprate to a 125 - if the 100 blows it's for a reason.

chris watton

Original Poster:

22,545 posts

280 months

Friday 20th June 2014
quotequote all
OK, cheers, that's put paid to that idea then! smile

m4tti

5,482 posts

175 months

Friday 20th June 2014
quotequote all
And the plate it mounts to has the live feed.. so if your not careful when removing the nuts that hold it on and accidentally earth the ratchet you get a nice spark display biggrin

peteA

2,757 posts

254 months

Friday 20th June 2014
quotequote all
Isn't there one in passenger footwell too?

Adrian@

4,496 posts

302 months

Friday 20th June 2014
quotequote all
These should be considered as service items, IF you do not know it's history ..as in you cannot see a time that it has been replaced then, change it, so that you do. There are ceramic versions that have better in use life.
Adrian@

shep1001

4,616 posts

209 months

Friday 20th June 2014
quotequote all
peteA said:
Isn't there one in passenger footwell too?
Yes 80A feed for the fuse board

TVRWazzock

1,653 posts

243 months

Friday 20th June 2014
quotequote all
Zippee said:
As per Mr Wazzock it's tucked under the airbox so the whole thing needs to be removed. Personally I'd leave it, they don't fail that often and why uprate to a 125 - if the 100 blows it's for a reason.
Oi zippy, you don't know me, you've never met me, I don't know you, so don't call me Mr Wazzock furious OK !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!




Zippee

13,891 posts

254 months

Saturday 21st June 2014
quotequote all
TVRWazzock said:
Zippee said:
As per Mr Wazzock it's tucked under the airbox so the whole thing needs to be removed. Personally I'd leave it, they don't fail that often and why uprate to a 125 - if the 100 blows it's for a reason.
Oi zippy, you don't know me, you've never met me, I don't know you, so don't call me Mr Wazzock furious OK !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Riiight!!! I'll take that as tongue in cheek for now!

chris watton

Original Poster:

22,545 posts

280 months

Saturday 21st June 2014
quotequote all
Surreal.....

Mattt

16,664 posts

238 months

Sunday 22nd June 2014
quotequote all
TVRWazzock said:
Zippee said:
As per Mr Wazzock it's tucked under the airbox so the whole thing needs to be removed. Personally I'd leave it, they don't fail that often and why uprate to a 125 - if the 100 blows it's for a reason.
Oi zippy, you don't know me, you've never met me, I don't know you, so don't call me Mr Wazzock furious OK !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Errr...

monty quick

230 posts

256 months

Monday 23rd June 2014
quotequote all
I would recommend that you do change the fuse.
It is true that they do not fail often but it is one of TVRs known problems and if it fails out on the road it is a right pain (battery goes dead and the car stops).
The problem with the original flat plate fuse is that it mechanically fatigues and often cracks in the middle. If it does crack it can cause a hotspot which has been known to melt the carrier.
The fuse is easy to change:- remove the airbox (don't forget the fiddly hidden catch underneath - slide your arm under the airbox from the front and the clip comes to hand).
The fuse carrier is just above the alternator. Either disconnect the battery or insulate your socket spanner to avoid shorting to earth.
Undo the two nylock nuts (the fuse usually has open ended mounting slots so you can slide it out - however your new fuse may have holes so you will have to completely remove the nuts). Fit the new fuse - do not overtighten the nuts - the screws are only interference fit into the plastic carrier and if you get too heavy handed you will damage the carrier. Close the carrier, re-fit the airbox. Job done. I did it in 20minutes and I am fairly useless!

chris watton

Original Poster:

22,545 posts

280 months

Monday 23rd June 2014
quotequote all
I'll leave it for when I get that CF airbox.

At the moment, with my luck, I am sure I would only have to open my bonnet and the car would inexplicably explode!

Laser Sag

2,860 posts

263 months

Monday 23rd June 2014
quotequote all
As Mr Monty Quick says the original 100Amp can crack in normal use, first you will usually know is that you will get a low voltage warning come. Depending on electrical load you can have between 10 and 30 minutes of driving before the voltage gets too low for the ecu to operate and then you are forced into changing it at the side of the road.
It is a worthwhile use of 30 minutes to change it for the ceramic version (they don't crack) in the comfort of your garage.

Zippee

13,891 posts

254 months

Monday 23rd June 2014
quotequote all
Mattt said:
TVRWazzock said:
Zippee said:
As per Mr Wazzock it's tucked under the airbox so the whole thing needs to be removed. Personally I'd leave it, they don't fail that often and why uprate to a 125 - if the 100 blows it's for a reason.
Oi zippy, you don't know me, you've never met me, I don't know you, so don't call me Mr Wazzock furious OK !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Errr...
I'm just glad he's not representative of all TVR owners smile