I think I've broke my handbrake
Discussion
Not having much luck lately.
I wanted to remove the centre tunnel in order to have a quick look why my reverse switch isn't working. As I did before, I clamped the handbrake button with a pair of mole grips, with cloth in-between to protect the button, then snap! The thread sheared off, leaving it in the button, revealing the end cap and spring!
Is this a whole new handbrake swap, and how hard is it to change?
Dammit!
ETA:

On the plus side, I fixed my reverse switch problem - grub screw for the plate that touched the switch was loose!
Look at this mess - but everything works now - apart from handbrake:

I wanted to remove the centre tunnel in order to have a quick look why my reverse switch isn't working. As I did before, I clamped the handbrake button with a pair of mole grips, with cloth in-between to protect the button, then snap! The thread sheared off, leaving it in the button, revealing the end cap and spring!
Is this a whole new handbrake swap, and how hard is it to change?
Dammit!
ETA:

On the plus side, I fixed my reverse switch problem - grub screw for the plate that touched the switch was loose!
Look at this mess - but everything works now - apart from handbrake:

Edited by chris watton on Sunday 22 June 14:08
slimtater said:
I almost feel heartbroken reading your threads/posts Chris. After watching all the work in progress when your car was away, its tragic to hear you have so many issues or things to do. 
Cheers 

Upon reflection though, I think I am deserving of ridicule.
It wasn't until an hour afterwards that I realised that I didn't have to touch the handbrake release button, it was the handbrake on my wife's MG I had to take the button off, and I must have gone into auto pilot!
I tried to take out the handbrake, but it seems I need to get at it from underneath, something I cannot do

If you can still get to the grub screw take it out and replace it with a bolt. The problem with the grub screw is you can't do it up tight without risk of stripping it hence why once they have been moved the first time there is a good chance it will need doing again unless you come up with a better fix. I will have a look in my manual about the handbrake. If you have a fax message me the number and I will fax the pages over.
Andrew
shep1001 said:
If you can still get to the grub screw take it out and replace it with a bolt. The problem with the grub screw is you can't do it up tight without risk of stripping it hence why once they have been moved the first time there is a good chance it will need doing again unless you come up with a better fix. I will have a look in my manual about the handbrake. If you have a fax message me the number and I will fax the pages over.
Andrew
Andrew, thank you again. I wonder if I should used some thread lock on the grub screw (I do have quite a selection of them that I bought the last time the grub screw was threaded). I can still get to it as there's no point in putting the centre tunnel parts back until the handbrake is fixed/replaced.Andrew
I don't have a fax machine, unfortunately.
All done - all fixed. Took the Tam to David Gerald in Redditch, and for an extra 20 minutes labour, put on my new horns, too, so they're no longer sliding around in the front!
I managed to have a good look under the car as well, it looks great!
One thing I did notice was the inner callipers - I thought I had paid £299+VAT to have them "removed and heat painted" - but they are not painted on the opposite side! Hmmmmmm
I managed to have a good look under the car as well, it looks great!
One thing I did notice was the inner callipers - I thought I had paid £299+VAT to have them "removed and heat painted" - but they are not painted on the opposite side! Hmmmmmm
chris watton said:
All done - all fixed. Took the Tam to David Gerald in Redditch, and for an extra 20 minutes labour, put on my new horns, too, so they're no longer sliding around in the front!
I managed to have a good look under the car as well, it looks great!
One thing I did notice was the inner callipers - I thought I had paid £299+VAT to have them "removed and heat painted" - but they are not painted on the opposite side! Hmmmmmm
Mine are similar, they were masked off with the pads out and painted in situ - although they are painted all round. I thought it was odd when you mentioned at Burghley they were being stripped and painted. I did not think that was possible because of all the seals etc.I managed to have a good look under the car as well, it looks great!
One thing I did notice was the inner callipers - I thought I had paid £299+VAT to have them "removed and heat painted" - but they are not painted on the opposite side! Hmmmmmm
shep1001 said:
Mine are similar, they were masked off with the pads out and painted in situ - although they are painted all round. I thought it was odd when you mentioned at Burghley they were being stripped and painted. I did not think that was possible because of all the seals etc.
I just assumed that for £360, they were taken off, stripped, painted and then baked in an oven (I have had similar done in the past).TBH, if I had known they were to be painted in situ, I would have bought a £20 can of calliper paint from Halfords and done a similar job myself!
Gassing Station | Tamora, T350 & Sagaris | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


