Wheel arch colouring black stuff
Wheel arch colouring black stuff
Author
Discussion

sagaris22

Original Poster:

167 posts

261 months

Tuesday 21st March 2006
quotequote all
Ive noticed the black crap inside my wheel arches is flaking in some areas

how do u sort this? any ideas?

someone said shutz or something like that can u just paint it on inside the wheel arch?

any ideas thanks

rodger



purpleperil

1,221 posts

306 months

Wednesday 22nd March 2006
quotequote all
Its covered by your warranty - get it back to the dealers. Search on this board for the problem - the reason for it is given.

kmpowell

3,424 posts

250 months

Wednesday 22nd March 2006
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Mine flaked within the first 200 miles. Had it all fixed at the 1000 mile service. Apparantly it's a common problem and nothing to worry about.

targarama

14,713 posts

305 months

Wednesday 22nd March 2006
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Out of interest chaps, do you pressure wash your wheel arches? I guess TVR use crap paint in the wheel arches (no different to the bodywork then )

Mine hasn't flaked but I hear of cars of all ages doing this - maybe its something to do with the atmospheric conditions on the day when TVR apply the 'paint'?

kmpowell

3,424 posts

250 months

Wednesday 22nd March 2006
quotequote all
targarama said:
Out of interest chaps, do you pressure wash your wheel arches?

Nope never, always handwash mine, and only use a hose on the inner arches. Since I had them re-done by the dealers they have been fine.

targarama said:
Mine hasn't flaked but I hear of cars of all ages doing this - maybe its something to do with the atmospheric conditions on the day when TVR apply the 'paint'?

Sounds plausable. I think it's a case of as soon as it goes in one small place that it will flake away easily in pieces elsewhere. That was the case with mine, i could have literally pulled huge whole flakes of paint off.

sagaris22

Original Poster:

167 posts

261 months

Wednesday 22nd March 2006
quotequote all
i had wash also and never thought botu warranty covering it !! silly ole me

rodger

purpleperil

1,221 posts

306 months

Wednesday 22nd March 2006
quotequote all
kmpowell said:
I think it's a case of as soon as it goes in one small place that it will flake away easily in pieces elsewhere. That was the case with mine, i could have literally pulled huge whole flakes of paint off.


I think its to do with TVR not removing the mould release agent before they sprayed the wheel arches!!

chris watton

22,545 posts

282 months

Wednesday 22nd March 2006
quotequote all
purpleperil said:
kmpowell said:
I think it's a case of as soon as it goes in one small place that it will flake away easily in pieces elsewhere. That was the case with mine, i could have literally pulled huge whole flakes of paint off.


I think its to do with TVR not removing the mould release agent before they sprayed the wheel arches!!


I think you're right - this has been a brob with some of the 'T' cars from the beginning - in some cases, the actual bodywork paint would flake off just inside the wheel arch, has happened to quite a few cars ASAIK.

lundinoir

633 posts

247 months

Wednesday 22nd March 2006
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I've not heard of this problem before and haven't notice anything but then again I've not really been looking at my inner wheel arches. Now I will...

_deejay_

5,047 posts

276 months

Wednesday 22nd March 2006
quotequote all
Happened on mine, but I had all 4 sorted by a dealer and it's been much better since.
I also had the black strip at the front redone as that'd started to fade/peal too. Looks much nicer now, and definately worth considering if you're doing the arches.

valhalla

2,246 posts

278 months

Wednesday 22nd March 2006
quotequote all
I totally agree with Chris Watton, As a fibre glass laminator for twenty five years, here is the reason(probably IMHO).
And some of the reason that it don't happen to all new T*R's
A Fibreglass mold don't need polishing every time its used, in some cases if your mold is realy well polished and sealed well before the application of any polish layers, But if the mold is dull in places some molders wax every time, after every 'pull' By Pull i mean every time a molding is taken out of the mold.
So if a mold is a good one, then you should be able to pull at least 5 out before requiring repolishing again.
And the first couple out of the mold tend to take with it some of the new release wax, and they will be the ones that flake off!!
The reason i'm passionate about this subject is my T350c did it bad,and its still coming off, and its nearly 3 years old now.
If only T*R would wipe over the area with accetone before blacking, then they would not gets this annoying fault. They could help the situation by lightly sanding the arches.
I also know that the arches are covered in dust from the body prep stage, and blowing it off won't make the paint stick.
When i visited the factory i saw preped up cars waiting for the spray booth, and because my paint had flaked off, i run my finger along the inside of the arches, and it was covered in fine dust, and realy shiny under the dust.so no paint is going to stick to that!!
OK rant over...Dave

targarama

14,713 posts

305 months

Wednesday 22nd March 2006
quotequote all
valhalla said:
I totally agree with Chris Watton, As a fibre glass laminator for twenty five years, here is the reason(probably IMHO).
And some of the reason that it don't happen to all new T*R's
A Fibreglass mold don't need polishing every time its used, in some cases if your mold is realy well polished and sealed well before the application of any polish layers, But if the mold is dull in places some molders wax every time, after every 'pull' By Pull i mean every time a molding is taken out of the mold.
So if a mold is a good one, then you should be able to pull at least 5 out before requiring repolishing again.
And the first couple out of the mold tend to take with it some of the new release wax, and they will be the ones that flake off!!
The reason i'm passionate about this subject is my T350c did it bad,and its still coming off, and its nearly 3 years old now.
If only T*R would wipe over the area with accetone before blacking, then they would not gets this annoying fault. They could help the situation by lightly sanding the arches.
I also know that the arches are covered in dust from the body prep stage, and blowing it off won't make the paint stick.
When i visited the factory i saw preped up cars waiting for the spray booth, and because my paint had flaked off, i run my finger along the inside of the arches, and it was covered in fine dust, and realy shiny under the dust.so no paint is going to stick to that!!
OK rant over...Dave


So maybe if a bodyshell has been through the factory paintshop more quickly and not been stood around for a day or three, then the paint kind of sticks. Leave it sitting (maybe while they wait for certain paint) and getting dusty and hey presto, peel central.

valhalla

2,246 posts

278 months

Wednesday 22nd March 2006
quotequote all
The reason that the dust sticks is because of the static electricity which is very large. I have seen a spark jump 4" when the molding is broken away from the mold And this can stay in a moulding for days.
So the only way for the paint to stick is to sand the shine off the molding before painting.
Dave

JR

14,020 posts

280 months

Thursday 23rd March 2006
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valhalla said:
If only T*R would wipe over the area with accetone before blacking, then they would not gets this annoying fault. They could help the situation by lightly sanding the arches.

Or mix some black colouring pigment into the fibreglass.

sagaris22

Original Poster:

167 posts

261 months

Thursday 23rd March 2006
quotequote all
Thanks guys, i didnt mean to start a massive debate however would appear a lot of cars suffer same problem

The warranty aspect is one id never even thought off but will be addressed at next service hopefully

many thanks

rodger