Wheel arch colouring black stuff
Discussion
Out of interest chaps, do you pressure wash your wheel arches? I guess TVR use crap paint in the wheel arches (no different to the bodywork then
)
Mine hasn't flaked but I hear of cars of all ages doing this - maybe its something to do with the atmospheric conditions on the day when TVR apply the 'paint'?
) Mine hasn't flaked but I hear of cars of all ages doing this - maybe its something to do with the atmospheric conditions on the day when TVR apply the 'paint'?
targarama said:
Out of interest chaps, do you pressure wash your wheel arches?
Nope never, always handwash mine, and only use a hose on the inner arches. Since I had them re-done by the dealers they have been fine.
targarama said:
Mine hasn't flaked but I hear of cars of all ages doing this - maybe its something to do with the atmospheric conditions on the day when TVR apply the 'paint'?
Sounds plausable. I think it's a case of as soon as it goes in one small place that it will flake away easily in pieces elsewhere. That was the case with mine, i could have literally pulled huge whole flakes of paint off.
kmpowell said:
I think it's a case of as soon as it goes in one small place that it will flake away easily in pieces elsewhere. That was the case with mine, i could have literally pulled huge whole flakes of paint off.
I think its to do with TVR not removing the mould release agent before they sprayed the wheel arches!!
purpleperil said:
kmpowell said:
I think it's a case of as soon as it goes in one small place that it will flake away easily in pieces elsewhere. That was the case with mine, i could have literally pulled huge whole flakes of paint off.
I think its to do with TVR not removing the mould release agent before they sprayed the wheel arches!!
I think you're right - this has been a brob with some of the 'T' cars from the beginning - in some cases, the actual bodywork paint would flake off just inside the wheel arch, has happened to quite a few cars ASAIK.
I totally agree with Chris Watton, As a fibre glass laminator for twenty five years, here is the reason(probably IMHO).
And some of the reason that it don't happen to all new T*R's
A Fibreglass mold don't need polishing every time its used, in some cases if your mold is realy well polished and sealed well before the application of any polish layers, But if the mold is dull in places some molders wax every time, after every 'pull' By Pull i mean every time a molding is taken out of the mold.
So if a mold is a good one, then you should be able to pull at least 5 out before requiring repolishing again.
And the first couple out of the mold tend to take with it some of the new release wax, and they will be the ones that flake off!!
The reason i'm passionate about this subject is my T350c did it bad,and its still coming off, and its nearly 3 years old now.
If only T*R would wipe over the area with accetone before blacking, then they would not gets this annoying fault. They could help the situation by lightly sanding the arches.
I also know that the arches are covered in dust from the body prep stage, and blowing it off won't make the paint stick.
When i visited the factory i saw preped up cars waiting for the spray booth, and because my paint had flaked off, i run my finger along the inside of the arches, and it was covered in fine dust, and realy shiny under the dust.so no paint is going to stick to that!!
OK rant over...Dave
And some of the reason that it don't happen to all new T*R's
A Fibreglass mold don't need polishing every time its used, in some cases if your mold is realy well polished and sealed well before the application of any polish layers, But if the mold is dull in places some molders wax every time, after every 'pull' By Pull i mean every time a molding is taken out of the mold.
So if a mold is a good one, then you should be able to pull at least 5 out before requiring repolishing again.
And the first couple out of the mold tend to take with it some of the new release wax, and they will be the ones that flake off!!
The reason i'm passionate about this subject is my T350c did it bad,and its still coming off, and its nearly 3 years old now.
If only T*R would wipe over the area with accetone before blacking, then they would not gets this annoying fault. They could help the situation by lightly sanding the arches.
I also know that the arches are covered in dust from the body prep stage, and blowing it off won't make the paint stick.
When i visited the factory i saw preped up cars waiting for the spray booth, and because my paint had flaked off, i run my finger along the inside of the arches, and it was covered in fine dust, and realy shiny under the dust.so no paint is going to stick to that!!
OK rant over...Dave
valhalla said:
I totally agree with Chris Watton, As a fibre glass laminator for twenty five years, here is the reason(probably IMHO).
And some of the reason that it don't happen to all new T*R's
A Fibreglass mold don't need polishing every time its used, in some cases if your mold is realy well polished and sealed well before the application of any polish layers, But if the mold is dull in places some molders wax every time, after every 'pull' By Pull i mean every time a molding is taken out of the mold.
So if a mold is a good one, then you should be able to pull at least 5 out before requiring repolishing again.
And the first couple out of the mold tend to take with it some of the new release wax, and they will be the ones that flake off!!
The reason i'm passionate about this subject is my T350c did it bad,and its still coming off, and its nearly 3 years old now.
If only T*R would wipe over the area with accetone before blacking, then they would not gets this annoying fault. They could help the situation by lightly sanding the arches.
I also know that the arches are covered in dust from the body prep stage, and blowing it off won't make the paint stick.
When i visited the factory i saw preped up cars waiting for the spray booth, and because my paint had flaked off, i run my finger along the inside of the arches, and it was covered in fine dust, and realy shiny under the dust.so no paint is going to stick to that!!
OK rant over...Dave
So maybe if a bodyshell has been through the factory paintshop more quickly and not been stood around for a day or three, then the paint kind of sticks. Leave it sitting (maybe while they wait for certain paint) and getting dusty and hey presto, peel central.
The reason that the dust sticks is because of the static electricity which is very large. I have seen a spark jump 4" when the molding is broken away from the mold And this can stay in a moulding for days.
So the only way for the paint to stick is to sand the shine off the molding before painting.
Dave
So the only way for the paint to stick is to sand the shine off the molding before painting.
Dave
Gassing Station | Tamora, T350 & Sagaris | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff




