coolant again
Author
Discussion

milu

Original Poster:

2,482 posts

288 months

Monday 3rd April 2006
quotequote all
ive tried searching for this info(is it me or is the search function not playing?).

im concerned by the running temps of my 350:

driving around im at about 90

fans seem to come on at about 95 but the temp keeps rising up to about 112 and then i get a high temp warning,luckily ive been able to move off at this stage,but what if im still in a jam?

it does cool quickly when i move off but also gets hot quickly when stationary,quicker than my tuscan.

ive had a couple of steam moments but have put this down to a overfilled system.

thing is were not even at summer yet so what do you guys think?

one more thing,because of the slow approach i make to my house,invariably by the time im on my drive way the fans are on,so should i let it run till the fans have done there job or just turn off?

sorry for the questions but this is bugging me!!

mike.

kmpowell

3,427 posts

250 months

Monday 3rd April 2006
quotequote all
Something isn't right. Water temp shouldn't go over about 95 degs at this time of year and you shouldnd defo not be getting steam! Could be a temp sensor gone or fan switch not kicking in early enough. Best get her looked at IIWY.

Cheers

milu

Original Poster:

2,482 posts

288 months

Monday 3rd April 2006
quotequote all
where is the water temp sensor situated?
mike

Mats

252 posts

264 months

Monday 3rd April 2006
quotequote all
This sounds like a classic case of water temp sensor gone up the swanny. There are 2 of them one on the engine and one in the ECU. Yours sounds very similar to what happened to my Tuscan last month (Hey it's still a speed 6 ) My water temp sensor on the engine went and the fans were not kicking in on time. They came on too late at which point they could not get the heat out of the engine quick enough and my temp was 120C with Steam. Shut right down and then let it cool down. A quick trip to the local indie and £30 quid later it was good as new. Get it booked in before you do some heat damage. Good Luck...

rolex

3,119 posts

280 months

Monday 3rd April 2006
quotequote all
Alternatively, a pinhole leak in the radiator causing an airlock in the system leading to poor coolant circulation. You can test this out
by leaving your car on tickover on your driveway. When the temp rises above 100c start revving the engine gently and note if the temp reading starts to drop which would be an indication of poor coolant circulation. Your symptoms are very similar to mine which resulted in a new radiator in my case. If your lucky it may just be an airlock which just requires bleeding.I would closely monitor the coolant level in the expansion tank for just the slightest drop in level. I now use a kids wooden ruler with a cross piece glued on rather then the wooden spoon method. This may help here
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=237198&r=3099417&hm=19567#3099417

milu

Original Poster:

2,482 posts

288 months

Tuesday 4th April 2006
quotequote all
cheers guys,better do some thorough investigating.
mike.

julianc

1,984 posts

281 months

Tuesday 4th April 2006
quotequote all
I had a similar problem on the Tamora a couple of years ago. The temperature sensor is underneath the black air filter box, and because of the configuration of sensor/cable, condensation runs down the cable and can corrode the electrical terminal. The guys at Henley Heritage did an excellent job of replacing the sensor and putting a shrink-wrap sleeve over the cable/terminal to prevent it happening again. So far, so good!

Julian

steve11

522 posts

267 months

Friday 14th April 2006
quotequote all
Mike... All sorted now?

jimmyt

332 posts

267 months

Sunday 16th April 2006
quotequote all
This has just happened to me last night after a long motorway journey. Got into slow traffic, got a water sensor warning, then the temps went right upto 115 with the associated steam coming out of the bonnet!

The fans were on for about 30 minutes but only getting moving again could bring the temperature down.

Sounds like a faulty sensor but think I need to top up the coolant.

Had loads of different info regarding coolant levels. Should it be below or above the level of the pipe which disappears off into the engine - ie. about 5 or 6cm's from the top.

Also, which coolant do people use or do they use a combo of water and coolant?

Cheers, James

targarama

14,715 posts

305 months

Sunday 16th April 2006
quotequote all
On 'average' the level seems to be around halfway up the tank, just at or above where the side pipe exits into the engine. Don't fill to the brim. I'd suggest a good 3/4 full and it will spit out what it doesn't need and get to the right level. Obviously, you've got another problem - sensor or whatever which will affect the checking of the right level when the cooling system/sensors are healthy.

Chim/Griff owners fit a fan override switch sometimes. Maybe we should too since the car seems to cook very quickly if the fans don't come on when they're supposed to.

steve11

522 posts

267 months

Sunday 16th April 2006
quotequote all
Had the same problem this weekend.

Got a good tip from TVR Castle (cheers Rob), the Water sensor sometimes gets corroded from moisture so give it a good clean (used girlfriends Nail file to clean the 2 metal pins - PS Deny all knowledge when asked if you have seen said item ) stick on a bit of Vaseline.

Good as new

steve11

522 posts

267 months

Sunday 16th April 2006
quotequote all
jimmyt said:

Had loads of different info regarding coolant levels. Should it be below or above the level of the pipe which disappears off into the engine - ie. about 5 or 6cm's from the top.

Also, which coolant do people use or do they use a combo of water and coolant?

Cheers, James


I have the 2nd expansion tank fitted which I keep approx 1/3 full

Use Mobil 1 50/50 Coolant/Water (Evian)

SP

253 posts

262 months

Monday 17th April 2006
quotequote all
If the fans are cutting in ok, it's likely that there is a bit of an air lock in the cooling system (quite common since they are a b*gger to bleed). Having said that, the "header tank mod" (the addition of a second expansion tank) is generally a bullet-proof solution for hot running - it's standard on factory cars now and costs about £200 all in, but it's not available under warranty

steve11

522 posts

267 months

Monday 17th April 2006
quotequote all
SP said:
but it's not available under warranty


Mine was

SP

253 posts

262 months

Monday 17th April 2006
quotequote all
steve11 said:
SP said:
but it's not available under warranty


Mine was


The dealer will have paid! We fitted them FOC for our customers (when we were Silverstone TVR) but the factory would not re-imburse us. It's great to hear you've got a good dealer

milu

Original Poster:

2,482 posts

288 months

Tuesday 18th April 2006
quotequote all
well im sort of sorted.
i bled the system which seemed to help(although i got conflicting advice on how to do this)and the car has generally been running cooler although i haven't got caught up in any really bad jams.

i tried to get the car hot near to home but as always with these things it didnt want to play and remained quite cool.

anyway as mentioned im pretty sure it was a air lock,making fans fairly ineffective.

thing is i have a leak,its only small and doesnt appear to be from the radiator,its further back but im buggered if i can find where its coming from!!

any suggestions?
mike.

targarama

14,715 posts

305 months

Tuesday 18th April 2006
quotequote all
When you say further back do you mean in/on/around the engine or one of the pipes leading from the radiator to the engine? Several people have posted about needing to tighten up various jubilee clips in the past, maybe your leak is this simple?

milu

Original Poster:

2,482 posts

288 months

Tuesday 18th April 2006
quotequote all
yeah,between radiator area and engine,ive tightened quite a few clips but haven,t yet got 'the one' if thats all it is.
thing is without a ramp its difficult to see.
mike.