Clutch problem?
Discussion
I took the car to Newqyuay for the weekend and apart from the tappets still a little noisy the car was fine. However I got back and as I was parking the car the clutch started getting heavier. The clutch was still working fine, the pedle just seemed stiffer. After spending so much on the engine I'm paranoid. Can anyone suggest what it might be? Has anyone had this happen?
mine went stiffer / heavier while back some of the teeth had snapped off the clutch assembly. I had difficulty getting it into 1st gear though, had to go into 2nd first then 1st. It finally died after too many of the teeth had snapped off and the clutch wouldn't ingage. If it really is geting heavier i'd get it seen to soon as when mine went it took the clutch hydraulic piston and cylinder with it spining the piston inside the cylinder and scoring it badly.
Yup it sounds like you need a new clutch.It's a real pain and seems a bit unfair in that often the fingers on the clutch plate go before you get any significant wear on the clutch .It happened to me at 19k.Clutch plate surfaces looked fine and wear was slight but around 40% of the fingers had gone.
Setting up the clutch is a bit of an art,there is more on this site if you do a search.
Mind you,if it was a Ferry a new clutch would cost you way more,and your car is way better than a Ferrari
Setting up the clutch is a bit of an art,there is more on this site if you do a search.
Mind you,if it was a Ferry a new clutch would cost you way more,and your car is way better than a Ferrari
FrancoTam said:
I took the car to Newqyuay for the weekend and apart from the tappets still a little noisy the car was fine. However I got back and as I was parking the car the clutch started getting heavier. The clutch was still working fine, the pedle just seemed stiffer. After spending so much on the engine I'm paranoid. Can anyone suggest what it might be? Has anyone had this happen?
Noisey tappets after spending so much money on the engine and a clutch that seems to be on its way out soon after the engine and box have been split - or have I missed something??If I have interpreted the situtaion correctly, it seems very odd if you dont mind me saying. Tappets should not be noisy on the car, and anyone worth their salt would at least recomend replacing the clutch when this much work was being done.
Thanks for the replies guys. The confusing thing is the clutch seems fine, it disenguages and goes into gear fine, it doesnt slip attall. The only simpton is that it is slightly heavier but only when the engine is on. If it is that the clutch needs replacing can any of you recomend an upgrade as I can't be arsed to replace the clutch every 20k?
Daftlad said:
FrancoTam said:
I took the car to Newqyuay for the weekend and apart from the tappets still a little noisy the car was fine. However I got back and as I was parking the car the clutch started getting heavier. The clutch was still working fine, the pedle just seemed stiffer. After spending so much on the engine I'm paranoid. Can anyone suggest what it might be? Has anyone had this happen?
Noisey tappets after spending so much money on the engine and a clutch that seems to be on its way out soon after the engine and box have been split - or have I missed something??If I have interpreted the situtaion correctly, it seems very odd if you dont mind me saying. Tappets should not be noisy on the car, and anyone worth their salt would at least recomend replacing the clutch when this much work was being done.
FrancoTam said:
Thanks for the replies guys. The confusing thing is the clutch seems fine, it disenguages and goes into gear fine, it doesnt slip attall. The only simpton is that it is slightly heavier but only when the engine is on. If it is that the clutch needs replacing can any of you recomend an upgrade as I can't be arsed to replace the clutch every 20k?
Franco, my clutch has got progressively heavier over the past 12 months (now 16k miles), and has just been diagnosed with a slight leak on the bell housing. In this case think it's heavy due to scoring in the master/slave cylinders rather than fingers going, the seals not coping very well with the heat from the engine. If yours is not leaking yet, I think it might well last a good bit longer. Many seem to go depending on age rather than on mileage. Dr D
Just replaced all my Sagaris clutch bits;
Hope this info helps
Slave leaked at 2k miles, stopped leaking at 4k miles.
First & reverse always akward from 0 miles
Getting difficult when cold at 3k miles to double clutching at 5k miles
Got the lot out and found:-
Clutch friction plate- not worn.
Slave leaking and thrust bearing noisy and without lubrication.

Spring fingers intact but worn on ends on thrust bearing contact points; reduced spring load found with test equipment.

Clutch fork/yolke worn in base

Thrust faces- few hot spots but OK

THE REPLACEMENTS
New Clutch Assembly ;Spring properly heat treated with larger contact area and induction hardened to stop wear

Raceproved Clutch Assembly

Raceproved lightweight aluminium slave with PTFE coated sliding surfaces

RESULT:
All the above bits along with a fantastic TVR main dealer and a few hours later:-
Silky smooth changes including 1st, & reverse just settling in.
No slave leaks and don't expect any.
Drives like a dfferent car
WHY couldn't the originals be like this?
G
Hope this info helps
Slave leaked at 2k miles, stopped leaking at 4k miles.
First & reverse always akward from 0 miles
Getting difficult when cold at 3k miles to double clutching at 5k miles
Got the lot out and found:-
Clutch friction plate- not worn.
Slave leaking and thrust bearing noisy and without lubrication.

Spring fingers intact but worn on ends on thrust bearing contact points; reduced spring load found with test equipment.

Clutch fork/yolke worn in base

Thrust faces- few hot spots but OK

THE REPLACEMENTS
New Clutch Assembly ;Spring properly heat treated with larger contact area and induction hardened to stop wear

Raceproved Clutch Assembly

Raceproved lightweight aluminium slave with PTFE coated sliding surfaces

RESULT:
All the above bits along with a fantastic TVR main dealer and a few hours later:-
Silky smooth changes including 1st, & reverse just settling in.
No slave leaks and don't expect any.
Drives like a dfferent car
WHY couldn't the originals be like this?
G

Great post Graham, excellent pics as always!
I too saw the Raceproved clutch at Diamond Rock, and on paper it looks to be a great update, but a few folks I've spoken with suggested it was too early to tell how well these components will fair. Having just had a leaking bell housing diagnosed, I'm now the in the market for one and was planning to replace with the standard one. Would be interested to hear how this compared cost wise to a standard clutch and whether you know if it's available to any main dealer - did they source the clutch for you or vice versa? Feel free to PM me as appropriate.
Dr D
I too saw the Raceproved clutch at Diamond Rock, and on paper it looks to be a great update, but a few folks I've spoken with suggested it was too early to tell how well these components will fair. Having just had a leaking bell housing diagnosed, I'm now the in the market for one and was planning to replace with the standard one. Would be interested to hear how this compared cost wise to a standard clutch and whether you know if it's available to any main dealer - did they source the clutch for you or vice versa? Feel free to PM me as appropriate.
Dr D
I had my clutch replaced with the Raceproved release & slave, but a std friction plate (I think I got that right - my dealer found this the best combination). It feels so much better than the original. Never crunches into reverse now either.
Best thing was it was covered by my extended warranty
Best thing was it was covered by my extended warranty

Targarama said:
I had my clutch replaced with the Raceproved release & slave, but a std friction plate (I think I got that right - my dealer found this the best combination). It feels so much better than the original. Never crunches into reverse now either.
Best thing was it was covered by my extended warranty
Thanks Trefor, just want I wanted to hear when I've been quoted 1,200-1,350 for a standard replacement, when it's not quite even got to 16k! Best thing was it was covered by my extended warranty


Dr D
Darren,
Sorry to hear your clutch is getting heavier..
Mine was always a heavy clutch and yours was nice and light in comparison..
If you don't already have one - get an AA part and labour warranty (£65) - they paid £500 of my bill.
Only stipulation with the policy - is the car must be undrivable and broken down..
Dream Machines did mine for a little over £1000 and this included a new slave cylinder. RG was a little more if I remember.
I have heard of TVR dealers being willing to fit any clutch - as these are hard parts to get hold sometimes.
Sorry to hear your clutch is getting heavier..
Mine was always a heavy clutch and yours was nice and light in comparison..
If you don't already have one - get an AA part and labour warranty (£65) - they paid £500 of my bill.
Only stipulation with the policy - is the car must be undrivable and broken down..
Dream Machines did mine for a little over £1000 and this included a new slave cylinder. RG was a little more if I remember.
I have heard of TVR dealers being willing to fit any clutch - as these are hard parts to get hold sometimes.
Thanks for the replies guys!
I took the car for a run down to West Bay on Sunday with the TVR club and for some unknown reason the clutch seems fine again. It was a bit tempremental in the morning but by the afternoon it was fine. I'm not going to replace it until it needs doing but am doing research and reading advise carfully as I'm sure it will go relatively soon (done 21k).
I took the car for a run down to West Bay on Sunday with the TVR club and for some unknown reason the clutch seems fine again. It was a bit tempremental in the morning but by the afternoon it was fine. I'm not going to replace it until it needs doing but am doing research and reading advise carfully as I'm sure it will go relatively soon (done 21k).
VARLEYHYD said:
I got the parts from Clever Trevor
Dealer only charged me 5 hours labour to fit new clutch assy & slave;
but nice man at Peter Smith Sportscars fitted gear box mountings, rear brake pads and replacement cats at the same time with no extra charge
G
Replacement cats? Do you means sports cats, or straight through cat pipe replacements? Dealer only charged me 5 hours labour to fit new clutch assy & slave;
but nice man at Peter Smith Sportscars fitted gear box mountings, rear brake pads and replacement cats at the same time with no extra charge
G


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