New owner questions, can anyone help please? :)
Discussion
Hi was wondering if I could get some advice? I recently bought my first TVR, a 2003 Tamora and I'm absolutely in love! But I have a few questions, I had her serviced when I bought her (1000 miles ago) and there were no problems according to Fernhurst (where I bought her from) but:
When I'm in traffic for more than 10 mins or so I get an oil pressure warning light because it’s dropping lower than 4 psi, is this normal? If not what could the problem be and what should the pressure be stabilising at? There’s plenty of oil in her and she doesn’t seem to have any leaks.
Again when I'm in traffic the engine heat gets up to 96 degrees, is this normal or could this be what’s causing the oil pressure to drop? And what should the temp be stabilising at?
Finally, I keep getting a rattling/grating noise that sounds like its coming from underneath the car but when I try to locate it outside the car I can't hear it, it doesn't sound like its the engine any ideas?
I'll probably take her for a check up at the garage anyway but any help from people in the know would be greatly appreciated, on that note can any one recomend a specialist near to docklands in London?
When I'm in traffic for more than 10 mins or so I get an oil pressure warning light because it’s dropping lower than 4 psi, is this normal? If not what could the problem be and what should the pressure be stabilising at? There’s plenty of oil in her and she doesn’t seem to have any leaks.
Again when I'm in traffic the engine heat gets up to 96 degrees, is this normal or could this be what’s causing the oil pressure to drop? And what should the temp be stabilising at?
Finally, I keep getting a rattling/grating noise that sounds like its coming from underneath the car but when I try to locate it outside the car I can't hear it, it doesn't sound like its the engine any ideas?
I'll probably take her for a check up at the garage anyway but any help from people in the know would be greatly appreciated, on that note can any one recomend a specialist near to docklands in London?
1. Had that! A replacement oil pressure sensor and/or using thicker Mobil 1, should keep the pressure up a bit during hot idle.
2. 96 water is pretty normal too, when you are stuck in traffic. As long as the fans are coming on, don't worry too much.
3. The noise might be the exhaust rattling ?
HTH.
2. 96 water is pretty normal too, when you are stuck in traffic. As long as the fans are coming on, don't worry too much.
3. The noise might be the exhaust rattling ?
HTH.
Yeah the fans are coming on ok, cheers for the reply! I don't suppose you have any advice on cold starting? The salesman at the garage told me that its easy to flood the engine if you don't keep the throttle well pumped and he also said once it fires up I should give it a blast of high revs. Then I heard today that under no circumstances should the engine be rev'd above 2000 rpm until the oil reaches 60 degrees! I'd never drive hard until the engines warm but I wasn't aware of this theory, any ideas?
Best advice seems to be avoid idling cold (low oil pressure to the head) but also avoid high revs until the oil is good and hot (50 deg min, 60 before you give it the beans). So I just start her, leave her to idle for as long as it takes to put on the stereo head-unit, and drive off gently (below 2000 revs).
I've heard some using the throttle to keep at 1500 revs for a minute or so, but I don't bother...
I've heard some using the throttle to keep at 1500 revs for a minute or so, but I don't bother...
Agree with the water temp, mine probably peaks a bit lower than 96, but as said if the fans are working and it doesnt get any hotter then you are good to go.
As for the warming up proceedure, DO NOT do what the salesman said! There are loads of posts on here about the subject, so might be worth a search, but as described, keep it below 2 to 2.5k until Oil temp is 60 plus. I do not leave it idling on cold, mainly because the other components do not warm up (brakes, gearbox etc) so as described, drive it straight away but keeping revs low. I dont use any throttle when I start from cold, just turn the key with foot on the clutch!
Dont know about the rattle I'm afraid.
As for the warming up proceedure, DO NOT do what the salesman said! There are loads of posts on here about the subject, so might be worth a search, but as described, keep it below 2 to 2.5k until Oil temp is 60 plus. I do not leave it idling on cold, mainly because the other components do not warm up (brakes, gearbox etc) so as described, drive it straight away but keeping revs low. I dont use any throttle when I start from cold, just turn the key with foot on the clutch!
Dont know about the rattle I'm afraid.
You shouldn't need to give it much gas at all when starting. When it does catch then just hold it at about 1200rpm for a few seconds or until it settles down. Then just drive off. I never take the engine over 2500rpm until it reaches 60 degC. If the engine is still cold but I'm stuck in traffic I tend to increase the idle to 1100 rpm just to make sure there is sufficient oil flow around the engine. Seems to work for me, but everybody will do it differently. One thing for sure though, NEVER rev it hard until it is up to temperature.
Oh, and regarding the grating noise. Have the near side engine mount checked. When they go, the engine drops slightly causing the cat to sit on the under plate. the rest of the exhaust system will also drop slightly .
Oh, and regarding the grating noise. Have the near side engine mount checked. When they go, the engine drops slightly causing the cat to sit on the under plate. the rest of the exhaust system will also drop slightly .
Not that I wish to disagree with anyone, and I'm sure there are many opinions on here but I was told a slightly different story on the warming up...
Same start up proceedure - turn key with no throttle and foot on clutch. Some cars need to be caught with the throttle, but most will start OK (if a little lumpy!) and then give it up to 1500 rpm for a few seconds. Then drive straight away (or as near to that as you can).
Now I was told by the dealer I bought from, no more than 3000 rpm until 30 deg, no more than 4000 rpm til 40 deg and so on. And then don't give it full beans until temp at 60 deg plus. Oh and that's oil temp, not water temp.
So, there we go - maybe some will say I'm destroying my engine, only time will tell I guess. (15000 miles and all ok so far - he says touching a large piece of wood!) But i would say only 2000 rpm until up to 60 deg is a little over cautious.
Ropey
Same start up proceedure - turn key with no throttle and foot on clutch. Some cars need to be caught with the throttle, but most will start OK (if a little lumpy!) and then give it up to 1500 rpm for a few seconds. Then drive straight away (or as near to that as you can).
Now I was told by the dealer I bought from, no more than 3000 rpm until 30 deg, no more than 4000 rpm til 40 deg and so on. And then don't give it full beans until temp at 60 deg plus. Oh and that's oil temp, not water temp.
So, there we go - maybe some will say I'm destroying my engine, only time will tell I guess. (15000 miles and all ok so far - he says touching a large piece of wood!) But i would say only 2000 rpm until up to 60 deg is a little over cautious.
Ropey
What you have quoted is pretty much what it says in the manual. Yes you are probably right about it being over protective, but rather that than severe engine damage. In reality, I carefully watch the oil temp, and will probably stretch it over 2500k as it increases. I personally never give it the full welly until probably 70 to 80 deg..
There are lots of opinions, but I think we all agree that keeping revs low on start up and shortly afterwards is key to minimising engine damage.
There are lots of opinions, but I think we all agree that keeping revs low on start up and shortly afterwards is key to minimising engine damage.
Max 2500 till 40 deg C and try and stay above 1500 rpm
3000 till 50 deg C
4000 till 60 Deg C
Push the revs after this, but I would wait till its the other side of 70 Deg C before letting the satble door open.
All temperatures are oil.
Start up - no throttle to start quick blip to 1500 rpm for a few secs then drive off ASAP.
3000 till 50 deg C
4000 till 60 Deg C
Push the revs after this, but I would wait till its the other side of 70 Deg C before letting the satble door open.
All temperatures are oil.
Start up - no throttle to start quick blip to 1500 rpm for a few secs then drive off ASAP.
Daftlad said:
Max 2500 till 40 deg C and try and stay above 1500 rpm
3000 till 50 deg C
4000 till 60 Deg C
Push the revs after this, but I would wait till its the other side of 70 Deg C before letting the satble door open.
All temperatures are oil.
Start up - no throttle to start quick blip to 1500 rpm for a few secs then drive off ASAP.
I'm with the DaftLad on this (albeit I hold <3000 until as close to 60degrees as my patience will allow).3000 till 50 deg C
4000 till 60 Deg C
Push the revs after this, but I would wait till its the other side of 70 Deg C before letting the satble door open.
All temperatures are oil.
Start up - no throttle to start quick blip to 1500 rpm for a few secs then drive off ASAP.
One more thing, though, re startup procedure..... I heard that you shouldn't depress the clutch when starting. So I don't.
In general, I'd recommend going with the "better safe than sorry" mentality.
Neil
neilboyd said:
Daftlad said:
Max 2500 till 40 deg C and try and stay above 1500 rpm
3000 till 50 deg C
4000 till 60 Deg C
Push the revs after this, but I would wait till its the other side of 70 Deg C before letting the satble door open.
All temperatures are oil.
Start up - no throttle to start quick blip to 1500 rpm for a few secs then drive off ASAP.
I'm with the DaftLad on this (albeit I hold <3000 until as close to 60degrees as my patience will allow).3000 till 50 deg C
4000 till 60 Deg C
Push the revs after this, but I would wait till its the other side of 70 Deg C before letting the satble door open.
All temperatures are oil.
Start up - no throttle to start quick blip to 1500 rpm for a few secs then drive off ASAP.
One more thing, though, re startup procedure..... I heard that you shouldn't depress the clutch when starting. So I don't.
In general, I'd recommend going with the "better safe than sorry" mentality.
Neil
Edited because I'm a tw@t
Edited by T40ORA on Saturday 20th October 17:06
neeko99 said:
Yeah the fans are coming on ok, cheers for the reply! I don't suppose you have any advice on cold starting? The salesman at the garage told me that its easy to flood the engine if you don't keep the throttle well pumped and he also said once it fires up I should give it a blast of high revs. Then I heard today that under no circumstances should the engine be rev'd above 2000 rpm until the oil reaches 60 degrees! I'd never drive hard until the engines warm but I wasn't aware of this theory, any ideas?
i keep it at 1200-1500 until 70 degrees.
high revs when cold
its the oil temp you want to bring up as well before higher rev.
your choice though.
Edited by X8 Saggy on Saturday 20th October 19:24
X8 Saggy said:
neeko99 said:
Yeah the fans are coming on ok, cheers for the reply! I don't suppose you have any advice on cold starting? The salesman at the garage told me that its easy to flood the engine if you don't keep the throttle well pumped and he also said once it fires up I should give it a blast of high revs. Then I heard today that under no circumstances should the engine be rev'd above 2000 rpm until the oil reaches 60 degrees! I'd never drive hard until the engines warm but I wasn't aware of this theory, any ideas?
i keep it at 1200-1500 until 70 degrees.
How on earth do you manage to drive it/change gear without labouring it?....which is just as bad as over revving it ? i keep it at 1200-1500 until 70 degrees.
Edited by Paxo1 on Saturday 20th October 21:57
TVRs really are shit aren't they?
That's just a complete load of bo
ocks spouted about the art of warming up.
Don't you lot realise that the first thing that manufacturers do when they have designed a crap engine is blame the warm-up procedure and put some hokey-cokey magic in place so that owners blame themselves?
It's pathetic really. I saw a Tamora on the M25 the other day and had a few fealings of remorse. Didn't last long. I am so glad I got rid of it. I can't imagine what I was thinking of when I bought it.
Bert
That's just a complete load of bo
ocks spouted about the art of warming up.Don't you lot realise that the first thing that manufacturers do when they have designed a crap engine is blame the warm-up procedure and put some hokey-cokey magic in place so that owners blame themselves?
It's pathetic really. I saw a Tamora on the M25 the other day and had a few fealings of remorse. Didn't last long. I am so glad I got rid of it. I can't imagine what I was thinking of when I bought it.
Bert
BertBert said:
TVRs really are shit aren't they?
That's just a complete load of boocks spouted about the art of warming up.
Don't you lot realise that the first thing that manufacturers do when they have designed a crap engine is blame the warm-up procedure and put some hokey-cokey magic in place so that owners blame themselves?
It's pathetic really. I saw a Tamora on the M25 the other day and had a few fealings of remorse. Didn't last long. I am so glad I got rid of it. I can't imagine what I was thinking of when I bought it.
Bert
Have another drink, Bert.That's just a complete load of bo
ocks spouted about the art of warming up.Don't you lot realise that the first thing that manufacturers do when they have designed a crap engine is blame the warm-up procedure and put some hokey-cokey magic in place so that owners blame themselves?
It's pathetic really. I saw a Tamora on the M25 the other day and had a few fealings of remorse. Didn't last long. I am so glad I got rid of it. I can't imagine what I was thinking of when I bought it.
Bert
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