Rattle when clutch partly depressed - advice please

[LaserTam]

My Tamora has developed a strange noise. Only happens when the clutch is partly depressed, doesnt happen when clutch right out, or right down. I can hear a metalic rattle, which seems to come from under the gear stick area, not the engine bay. Any ideas?

[Targarama]

Thrust bearing. Shouldn't affect the operation of the clutch itself.

[LaserTam]

That sounds serious, is it? Confirm the clutch all seems to working fine. Trip to the specialists by the sound of it...

[Targarama]

No it is not serious. The bearing just rattles on the shaft a bit sometimes. If it is this then the clutch isn't about to stop working (assuming its a normal light rattle - obviously I've not heard your car).

Of course getting someone in the know to check is the best thing to do just in case..

[Toady1]

id second that, probably just a dry clutch release bearing, it shouldnt go until it gets really bad. But if it worries you then take it to someone.

[LaserTam]

Thanks chaps. I will get someone to have look/listen. Suprised this wasnt picked up on the service just over a month ago, but hey. Awaiting delivery of a sports exhaust (hopefully today!!) so will get them to check this when they fit the pipes...

[cptsideways]

Are'nt these a plate type clutch? in which case its just the friction plate/s rattling around. I know on mine (its an HKS clutch btw) that there are assister springs that stop it doing it too much.

[VARLEYHYD]

Just for those not seen earlier post;
Thank you trackcar & CT for a luvelly set of parts

Replaced all my Sagaris clutch bits;

Hope this info helps all

TVR Original Slave leaked at 2k miles, stopped leaking at 4k miles.

First & reverse always akward from 0 miles
Getting difficult when cold at 3k miles to double clutching at 5k miles
1 ,2 ,3 nearly impossible to get.

Thrust bearing noisy when pedal part depressed

Got the lot out and found:-

Clutch friction plate- not worn.

Original TVR slave leaking and thrust bearing noisy and without lubrication.



Original spring fingers intact but worn on ends on thrust bearing contact points; reduced spring load found with CT raceproved test equipment.




Original Clutch fork/yolke worn in base




Thrust faces- few hot spots but OK




THE CT RACEPROVED REPLACEMENTS

New CT Raceproved Clutch Assembly ;Spring properly heat treated with larger contact area and induction hardened to stop wear



Raceproved CT Clutch Assembly




Raceproved lightweight aluminium CT slave with PTFE coated sliding surfaces




RESULT:

Silky smooth changes including 1st, & reverse.

No slave leaks and don't expect any.

Drives like a different car; no missed gears now

5 Hours labour

Graham V

[LaserTam]

Had someone have a look, and been advised that its the bearing that needs replacing. Bad news is the labour to replace it, as gearbox needs to come out etc. Advice I have receiced is that right now its no major problem, but in time, the bearing will cease up, which will then wear the clutch.

Does this sound right, and therefore would it make sense to lay out the money now?

Thanks.

[Daftlad]

LaserTam said:

Had someone have a look, and been advised that its the bearing that needs replacing. Bad news is the labour to replace it, as gearbox needs to come out etc. Advice I have receiced is that right now its no major problem, but in time, the bearing will cease up, which will then wear the clutch.

Does this sound right, and therefore would it make sense to lay out the money now?

Thanks.

Depends on the severity of the rattle. All 4 of our S6 cars make/have made this noise - not had a clutch changed yet!. If the noise changes when the clutch is depressed, it should be fine IMO.

[LaserTam]

Ah, thanks for that DL. Yes the noise doesnt happen when clutch fully out, or fully depressed, just when I am somewhere close to the bite point. Interesting that you have had no issues with this. Interestingly, when they were looking at the car, they could not re-create the 'noise' when the car was at all warm. They had to wait until this morning, so stone cold before they could hear it. Does this just confirm what you say, or change your view?

Perhaps I will hang on to the 600 quid that they have quoted then!

[Targarama]

I'd hang on for now. When you do get it done, have the whole clutch replaced.

In my car it became impossible to get gears sometimes (no leaks). Dealer replaced the complete clutch/componenets. I now have a TVR Power (so TVR) clutch plate, but with a RaceProved release mechanism. The clutch is now much better than it ever has been (I've had the car from new). First and reverse can be selected without any crunching either.

Interestingly, mine wasn't right since the engine came back from TVR in summer 2006 (HGF, took the factory 2 tries to get it right). Dealer told me the friction plate was completely worn out and that he suspected TVR had bolted someone else's clutch to my engine before shipping it back on the pallet. I'd only done 13k miles, and my rear tyres lasted 14k miles, I'm mr gentle when it comes to clutches so it must have been swapped.

The TVR extended 'Autoprotect' warranty paid for all costs.

[LaserTam]

Thanks for the advice, anyone else experienced this rattly metalic noise?

[LaserTam]

Purely selfish bump... anyone else experienced this?