Discussion
Driving home tonight in Tamora & thought I heard the engine miss once or twice then engine cut out completely with a dash warning "NO POWER SUPPLY". Loads of abuse from all the tintops I'd previuously overtaken! Voltage showed less than 11 volts so wouldn't restart. Connected to another car via Andersen socket & car fired up immediately, ran for a few minutes connected then disconnected & was able to limp the mile home using plenty revs to stop stalling. As soon as voltage dropped below about 10.5 it naturally cut. I believe there is a 100 amp fuse for the alternator which could well be the problem but where is it? Any info or suggestions gratefully received.
Looking at the below should give you most of the info that you need....
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Thanks guys. It was indeed the dreaded 100A fuse. I hope it doesn't fail aagain until my knuckles are healed! Must look for details of the remote fuse conversion I've seen on here in the past. Definitely should be an annual change in my opinion as I certainly would not like it to happen mid-overtake again.
Hi, Willtvr had the same problem as you back in Feb I moved the fuse holder up onto the top of the iner wing got longer leads from the starter and alternator from Lucas fit a 150amp fuse and a new fuse holder then put it inside a electical water tight box had no problem since & if it goes again will able to repair it at the road side. Car has been to main dealer for somthing else and when they saw what I had done they thought it was a good idea!
j3gme said:
Hi, Willtvr had the same problem as you back in Feb I moved the fuse holder up onto the top of the iner wing got longer leads from the starter and alternator from Lucas fit a 150amp fuse and a new fuse holder then put it inside a electical water tight box had no problem since & if it goes again will able to repair it at the road side. Car has been to main dealer for somthing else and when they saw what I had done they thought it was a good idea!
Sounds like a good idea to me, pity TVR couldn't have managed it!The 100 Amp fuse will be fine.
It is mainly bad positioning which not only makes it difficult to get to, but also causes the fuse holder to break up. That along with corrosion and the chance of the Anderson connector filling with water and crap which may cause shorting of the battery.
While your looking at fuses and holders it maybe worth checking the main power steering one aswell.
It is mainly bad positioning which not only makes it difficult to get to, but also causes the fuse holder to break up. That along with corrosion and the chance of the Anderson connector filling with water and crap which may cause shorting of the battery.
While your looking at fuses and holders it maybe worth checking the main power steering one aswell.
jamie g said:
The 100 Amp fuse will be fine.
It is mainly bad positioning which not only makes it difficult to get to, but also causes the fuse holder to break up. That along with corrosion and the chance of the Anderson connector filling with water and crap which may cause shorting of the battery.
While your looking at fuses and holders it maybe worth checking the main power steering one aswell.
Is this the one in the N/S wheel arch battery compartment? My PAS gave up the ghost and I'm going to check fuses and relays in the week. RG advised me that one is the most probably culprit.It is mainly bad positioning which not only makes it difficult to get to, but also causes the fuse holder to break up. That along with corrosion and the chance of the Anderson connector filling with water and crap which may cause shorting of the battery.
While your looking at fuses and holders it maybe worth checking the main power steering one aswell.
Ian, I changed the 100amp fuse a while ago and it took me bloody ages and I still have knuckle scras too.
Sadly, my fuse was fine - it was the figgin' alternator that had gone! Oh, and mine was actually fitted with a 125amp fuse.
Here we go,
All three fuses in their black holders for the Sagaris
Alternator Fuse 100A- Battery not charging, under airbox

Main Fuse 80A passenger footwell- Lights flicker/burning smell

Power Steer Fuse 100A Battery box-
Also the green to green/yellow plug connector gets full of water, try that first.

Then if not that the relay under bonnet

Hope this helps
G
All three fuses in their black holders for the Sagaris
Alternator Fuse 100A- Battery not charging, under airbox

Main Fuse 80A passenger footwell- Lights flicker/burning smell

Power Steer Fuse 100A Battery box-
Also the green to green/yellow plug connector gets full of water, try that first.

Then if not that the relay under bonnet

Hope this helps
G

T40ORA said:
Sadly, my fuse was fine - it was the figgin' alternator that had gone! Oh, and mine was actually fitted with a 125amp fuse.
Hi Lee, yeah often wondered where the alternator was! BTW car now going like stink but will need to do something about silencing for Zolder now its de-catted as its somewhat LOUD!willtvr said:
T40ORA said:
Sadly, my fuse was fine - it was the figgin' alternator that had gone! Oh, and mine was actually fitted with a 125amp fuse.
Hi Lee, yeah often wondered where the alternator was! BTW car now going like stink but will need to do something about silencing for Zolder now its de-catted as its somewhat LOUD!Glad you've got it back Ian, and even gladder that it's beter than before.
Definitely no Zolder for me this year; rebuild will have to wait until I have some funds, too. Also, Mum's been in hospital for the last 5 weeks and has just been diagnosed as having a type of dementia. So all thoughts of things motoring, or even fun, related have drifted away.
But when I DO get the rebuild..... I'm also thinking of a trick diff like yours.
DO you know if Mike and SUe are going?
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