Discussion
LaserTam said:
I am no expert, but was told before that you should always top up with the same oil as the oil already in there! Its a rule I always follow, have I been misinformed?
So long as you're not using vegetable cooking oil and its a very similar oil type then I see no issue here if only a litre or so for topping up etc. Otherwise there would be lots of lawsuits against oil companies where their two oils didnt mix and caused problems etc.Toobin said:
Off to the classics next week and thought it may be semi organised of me to pack some oil...I've got some GTX Magnatec 10w/40 sitting on the floor here..will that do? (been here a while mind)
Should do just fine. 10W better than 0W as it doens't fall out of the engine so fast :-)As long as the cannister you have hasn't been opened for very long that is...
Of course any semi or synthetic oil is better than no oil if you've run short. Don't forget that you can buy oil in Europe at petrol stations too.
Check the opie oils thread in the general tvr section for some advice and further info.
It's a long thread but to summarise, the S6 should be run on 0w-40 or 5w-40 fully synthetic oil such as mobil1. The chap recommends Silokolene and Motul oils as they are polar (esther-based?) which means they tend to stick to engine surfaces when the engine is not in use, resulting in less engine wear when starting.
Lower cold viscosity also means that they are easier to pump at lower temperatures again resulting in less wear at start up.
For hotter climes or extended fast road / trackday use a higher hot viscosity seems to be recommended.
There also seems to be some leeway around the term 'synthetic' - seemingly you get what you pay for when it comes to oil: a cheap fully synthetic oil may not actually be truly synthetic.
Again - go through the thread for full details or contact them - they seem pretty knowledgable guys.
Cheers,
Mark
It's a long thread but to summarise, the S6 should be run on 0w-40 or 5w-40 fully synthetic oil such as mobil1. The chap recommends Silokolene and Motul oils as they are polar (esther-based?) which means they tend to stick to engine surfaces when the engine is not in use, resulting in less engine wear when starting.
Lower cold viscosity also means that they are easier to pump at lower temperatures again resulting in less wear at start up.
For hotter climes or extended fast road / trackday use a higher hot viscosity seems to be recommended.
There also seems to be some leeway around the term 'synthetic' - seemingly you get what you pay for when it comes to oil: a cheap fully synthetic oil may not actually be truly synthetic.
Again - go through the thread for full details or contact them - they seem pretty knowledgable guys.
Cheers,
Mark
Edited by darkmark07 on Tuesday 1st July 16:49
Targarama said:
short. Don't forget that you can buy oil in Europe at petrol stations too.
And Castrol 10/60 is probably the most common oil in foriegn service stations. Castrol RS or Castrol edge.The oilmans advice normally appears very good, but how generic is advice? Is he aware of all the engines foibles, that the engine is in a fibreglass car (heat) etc.
I would run a mile from 0/40 in a S6 TVR unless it was for top-up and its all I could get in a synthetic oil.
Targarama said:
The oilmans advice normally appears very good, but how generic is advice? Is he aware of all the engines foibles, that the engine is in a fibreglass car (heat) etc.
I would run a mile from 0/40 in a S6 TVR unless it was for top-up and its all I could get in a synthetic oil.
I hear what you're saying about generic advice and it is a valid point (although I think that the owner's manual states 0w-40).I would run a mile from 0/40 in a S6 TVR unless it was for top-up and its all I could get in a synthetic oil.
Without wishing to be confrontational (and being that I've only managed to drive my T350 about 100 miles so with no basis in fact for starting an argument
) on what basis would you avoid that grade?darkmark07 said:
Targarama said:
The oilmans advice normally appears very good, but how generic is advice? Is he aware of all the engines foibles, that the engine is in a fibreglass car (heat) etc.
I would run a mile from 0/40 in a S6 TVR unless it was for top-up and its all I could get in a synthetic oil.
I hear what you're saying about generic advice and it is a valid point (although I think that the owner's manual states 0w-40).I would run a mile from 0/40 in a S6 TVR unless it was for top-up and its all I could get in a synthetic oil.
Without wishing to be confrontational (and being that I've only managed to drive my T350 about 100 miles so with no basis in fact for starting an argument
) on what basis would you avoid that grade?I dont like the cold 0 grade IMO its too thin when cold and runs too easily. Benefits to getting to the top of the engine quickly, but I've no confidence it will stay there when the engine is turned off and left for a while. The 40 does not give me the upper (hot) range protection I want either.
Oil is also quite expensive and I know my oil cunsumption would be greater on 0/40 - can't see the point of throwing it out of the exhausts.
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