Sagaris Temperature question
Discussion
Another basic question i guess. I was stuck in a 5 mile jam on the M11 yesterday. This took an hour to clear. While crawling along the water temp topped 100 degrees and the oil temp 90. Near the end of the jam i heard some thumps from the engine.
Are the thumps anything to worry about ?
What temp does the water and oil have to get to for me to worry ?
Thanks in advance.
Are the thumps anything to worry about ?
What temp does the water and oil have to get to for me to worry ?
Thanks in advance.
One radiator fan should come on around 92 and the other around 98 so water temp may reach 100 but should come down with the two fans on and once moving.
Oil temp will rise also if in traffic for so long, and should again cool as once on the move.
As for the thumping ! that shouldn't happen and cannot advise what may be!
Transmistion tunnel gets very hot and gear stick holds a lot of heat, thats normal in hot weather.
Regards
Paul
Oil temp will rise also if in traffic for so long, and should again cool as once on the move.
As for the thumping ! that shouldn't happen and cannot advise what may be!
Transmistion tunnel gets very hot and gear stick holds a lot of heat, thats normal in hot weather.
Regards
Paul
Edited by deders on Sunday 27th July 13:23
A little tip for heat in slow moving traffic I've found during 'development' (or 'messing about with it', according to wife)
There's surprisingly little flow thro' rad below about 900rpm (my idle speed is lower than this with a/c on) so engine runs near 100C even though the water in the rad is a lot cooler.
So if stationary in traffic for a minute, try running it at 1000rpm+ & I'm pretty sure you'll see temp drop rapidly by 5C or more. Sounds odd, but works
There's surprisingly little flow thro' rad below about 900rpm (my idle speed is lower than this with a/c on) so engine runs near 100C even though the water in the rad is a lot cooler.
So if stationary in traffic for a minute, try running it at 1000rpm+ & I'm pretty sure you'll see temp drop rapidly by 5C or more. Sounds odd, but works

My display runs 6 degress hotter than it actually is, I also turn the heater onto hot and full blast, that lowers the temp by 10 degrees.
I was once stuck in London traffic and hit an indicated 116 degrees, as soon as I could I got the bonnet off and checked the water, it had boiled dry, a good few litres later (start up and let it flush through) she was back to normal.
My interior being painted and not covered gets incredibly hot, so much so I cannot rest my arm on the transmission tunnel.
A quick run on a clear road usually brings the temp right back down to about 80 degrees in about 5 mins. The gearstick and handbrake take a LOT longer to cool.
My fans kick in at 82 degrees (they all should) so on the disply that will read 88.
Claire
I was once stuck in London traffic and hit an indicated 116 degrees, as soon as I could I got the bonnet off and checked the water, it had boiled dry, a good few litres later (start up and let it flush through) she was back to normal.
My interior being painted and not covered gets incredibly hot, so much so I cannot rest my arm on the transmission tunnel.
A quick run on a clear road usually brings the temp right back down to about 80 degrees in about 5 mins. The gearstick and handbrake take a LOT longer to cool.
My fans kick in at 82 degrees (they all should) so on the disply that will read 88.
Claire
Edited by Gaffer on Sunday 27th July 17:37
Gaffer said:
My display runs 6 degress hotter than it actually is, ......
My fans kick in at 82 degrees (they all should) so on the disply that will read 88.
Claire
Hi Gaffer,My fans kick in at 82 degrees (they all should) so on the disply that will read 88.
Claire
Edited by Gaffer on Sunday 27th July 17:37
(Sorry to hear your about your clutch prob!). Appreciate your history with the cars, but most T-series cars are set in 2 stages; mine have always been at 92 & 94 which I queried once & was told by factory that the engine's optimum temp is 85-90C.
Interested that you feel that the temp reading's not right. Is your sensor ok? You may know that the display runs from the back sensor in the engine(as does the engine ecu I think) but fans run from the front sensor.

tail slide said:
Gaffer said:
My display runs 6 degress hotter than it actually is, ......
My fans kick in at 82 degrees (they all should) so on the disply that will read 88.
Claire
Hi Gaffer,My fans kick in at 82 degrees (they all should) so on the disply that will read 88.
Claire
Edited by Gaffer on Sunday 27th July 17:37
(Sorry to hear your about your clutch prob!). Appreciate your history with the cars, but most T-series cars are set in 2 stages; mine have always been at 92 & 94 which I queried once & was told by factory that the engine's optimum temp is 85-90C.
Interested that you feel that the temp reading's not right. Is your sensor ok? You may know that the display runs from the back sensor in the engine(as does the engine ecu I think) but fans run from the front sensor.

I am in a slightly different situation wiht the sagaris being the prototype, a lot of things I am finding are different on her, but both Dom @ TVR Power and Ian @ Torque RVT both say my display is over-reading by 6 degrees and my fans are kicking in at 82 degrees, I have the 82 deg thermostat from Power on as well wich may explain a lot. I also have different fans to the normal sag's wich I am going to change at some point as mine arent too effective at moving the heat.
Claire
tail slide said:
A little tip for heat in slow moving traffic I've found during 'development' (or 'messing about with it', according to wife)
There's surprisingly little flow thro' rad below about 900rpm (my idle speed is lower than this with a/c on) so engine runs near 100C even though the water in the rad is a lot cooler.
So if stationary in traffic for a minute, try running it at 1000rpm+ & I'm pretty sure you'll see temp drop rapidly by 5C or more. Sounds odd, but works
I've noticed this - circulates the water a bit more than at tickover. Only a few degrees difference - but might be enough to stop it cooking one day...There's surprisingly little flow thro' rad below about 900rpm (my idle speed is lower than this with a/c on) so engine runs near 100C even though the water in the rad is a lot cooler.
So if stationary in traffic for a minute, try running it at 1000rpm+ & I'm pretty sure you'll see temp drop rapidly by 5C or more. Sounds odd, but works

Temp didn't get about 91 today in traffic. No major jams though. (Went to Mercedes Benz World - very well run place - I'll take a new SL Convertible please).
Gaffer said:
I am in a slightly different situation wiht the sagaris being the prototype, a lot of things I am finding are different on her, but both Dom @ TVR Power and Ian @ Torque RVT both say my display is over-reading by 6 degrees and my fans are kicking in at 82 degrees, I have the 82 deg thermostat from Power on as well wich may explain a lot. I also have different fans to the normal sag's wich I am going to change at some point as mine arent too effective at moving the heat.
Claire
Ah that explains it! Good to see you're obviously enjoying putting a fair few miles under Candy's wheels Claire

Targarama said:
I've noticed this - circulates the water a bit more than at tickover. Only a few degrees difference - but might be enough to stop it cooking one day...
Temp didn't get about 91 today in traffic. No major jams though. (Went to Mercedes Benz World - very well run place - I'll take a new SL Convertible please).
Temp didn't get about 91 today in traffic. No major jams though. (Went to Mercedes Benz World - very well run place - I'll take a new SL Convertible please).
Some very tempting AMG fare these days..... SL65 Black 
Anti- tail slide devices obviously ruled me out before, but they've seen sense.
Edited by tail slide on Sunday 27th July 21:37
tail slide said:
A little tip for heat in slow moving traffic I've found during 'development' (or 'messing about with it', according to wife)
There's surprisingly little flow thro' rad below about 900rpm (my idle speed is lower than this with a/c on) so engine runs near 100C even though the water in the rad is a lot cooler.
So if stationary in traffic for a minute, try running it at 1000rpm+ & I'm pretty sure you'll see temp drop rapidly by 5C or more. Sounds odd, but works
I used this method a while back to get the temp down but in my case the overheat was due to a small airlock which was cured by bleedingThere's surprisingly little flow thro' rad below about 900rpm (my idle speed is lower than this with a/c on) so engine runs near 100C even though the water in the rad is a lot cooler.
So if stationary in traffic for a minute, try running it at 1000rpm+ & I'm pretty sure you'll see temp drop rapidly by 5C or more. Sounds odd, but works

tail slide said:
Ah that explains it! Good to see you're obviously enjoying putting a fair few miles under Candy's wheels 
That I am
Manchester to London and back again each week, plus the Le Mans Classic trip and general running round...should ease it off a bit I guess but am having too much fun.The milage will drop when I get Daisy back from the re-spray though.
Claire
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