Clutch number 3 please.

[rfisher]

Had a new clutch fitted at 10k miles under warranty following the infamous broken release fingers fault.

This clutch has been in for 15k miles and now it's just starting to stick when I change gear with the gearbox warmed up.

Last time I couldn't get into gear when stationary, but now it's sticking when I change gear on the move.

Anyone had this problem?

[KillerJim]

I`ve just started to get the can`t get a gear problem when stationary problem - first is a bh and reverse (even with 5th) is a grinding job (I just make sure she's in gear before starting)

I`ve been told by the servicer that the clutch isn`t clearing correctly as the finger are fine, but maybe yours is the slave cylinder problem - tbh, I`m not really sure I`m sure some guru will be about soon

Btw.. Anyone any recommendations on how to approach this with AutoProtect? I`ve full wear+tear and I hear its a hassle to claim with them any advice appreciated!

J

[Targarama]

KillerJim said:

I`ve just started to get the can`t get a gear problem when stationary problem - first is a bh and reverse (even with 5th) is a grinding job (I just make sure she's in gear before starting)

I`ve been told by the servicer that the clutch isn`t clearing correctly as the finger are fine, but maybe yours is the slave cylinder problem - tbh, I`m not really sure I`m sure some guru will be about soon

Btw.. Anyone any recommendations on how to approach this with AutoProtect? I`ve full wear+tear and I hear its a hassle to claim with them any advice appreciated!

J

Hendry's got my complete clutch paid for under this warranty.

[Barry Ashcroft]

Going thorugh the paperwork on my new car it had the clutch replaced in January by Trimar under the auto protect warrenty for broken fingers.

[VARLEYHYD]

KillerJim said:

I`ve been told by the servicer that the clutch isn`t clearing correctly as the finger are fine:
Btw.. Anyone any recommendations on how to approach this with AutoProtect? I`ve full wear+tear and I hear its a hassle to claim with them any advice appreciated!
J

Heres the SP6/AJP twin plate clutch bits chaps:- Clutch number 4 please!(with an extra basket)




There are two sets of three butterfly style springs(not the fingers)that push each clutch plate away from the driven plate and flywheel when released by the slave.

The release movement of the clutch plate is limited from the thrust plate side by a star lock washer on a location pillar, should the washer bend or break, as there are two rates of spring there is a tendancy the stronger spring to push the clutch plate onto the flywhel causing the dragging/not clearing issue.




Star lock washer failure in photo that caused severe dragging



Also some poor quality flywheels can get gouged by the butterfly spring action causing dragging


IMO Clutch dragging =

Manufacturing fault-Butterfly release springs incorrect heat treatment?

Star lock washer fault- damaged/broken incorrect heat treatment? causing release mechanism to jam

Assembly fault

Flywheel- If it's this just rotate the clutch position by 60degrees for a clean surface.

(guess clutch plate its self should last 20-40K)

OR

Slave leaking- you will see this on the bellhousing though
Low fliud level- Reservoir shared with brakes (indpendant supplies don't affect brakes)

OR

Spring fingers failing on older cars; (most of them broken by now if they are going to)

Solution

1. DIY Remove rubber off clutch pedal stop for possible improvement for 1-2k miles

2. DIY Re-set butterfly spring tension (G special this one is the best fix! and it works fantastic, some will not like it though!)

3. DIY Refurbish clutch assy as long as plates are 6.5mm min thick

4. Replace clutch assy with Raceproved(eliminates slave & finger issues), or TVR part


G

edited to add OR slave faults

Edited by VARLEYHYD on Saturday 13th September 15:49

[KillerJim]

• blinks* wow.. your going to be a legend in TVR circles (if your not there already..)

I swear now more than ever I need a garage and a 4 point lift..

Good luck with sorting the rest of the manual!

J

[grumbledoak]

I am just past 15k and starting to get similar symptoms in 2nd and 3rd (only); thanks for the info!

A few questions, in case mine turns out to be the same:
how long before this gets ugly?
any real choice in the 'cure', or is it basically engine out and new clutch time?
what is currently the recommended clutch and are they available?

Any advice appreciated.

[KillerJim]

I used a trick supplied by Graham to get another 1000 miles from mine (before it got really bad)..

Take off the rubber stopper that under the clutch pedal, gives it a little more travel to disengage

J

[grumbledoak]

I shall have a look. An extra 1k would we welcome, especially if I don't have a "stitch in time" option.

[Aowhs102]

I had this, then I came out to a large yellow stain on the drive, all the hydrolic (how do you spell that?) fluid had leaked out. A shed load of cash later and the seal was replaced.


On the plus side I did find out that both the clutch and the flywheel are basiclly perfect.

[rfisher]

The brake and clutch use the same reservoir behind the brake pedal don't they?

Don't fancy losing my brakes and clutch at 70 on the A1 if it's the slave seal that's going.

I have noticed a very small leak of yellow / brown fluid about 2/3rds of the way towards the front of the car in the middle. Thought it may be a propshaft or gearbox seal going.

Looks like it's an early (between services) trip to my local TVR man.

[grumbledoak]

rfisher said:

Looks like it's an early (between services) trip to my local TVR man.

Certainly looks like a few sheets of newspaper under the car overnight!