My Speed 6 clutch: are these sure signs of wear?

[hairyaardvark]

Hi All,

a quick search revealed loads of talk about clutches and various signs/superstitions etc about what to look out for. But I have a definite set of reproducable symptoms which I'd appreciate your opinions on - are these definite signs that my clutch is on the way out? If so, how long do you reckon I've got?

The car is a '55 Sagaris with nearly 12K on the clock, and this is the first clutch (AFAIK).

1.) when cold it is very difficult to get the gearknob into first. I usually have to lean on it for 5 or 6 seconds before it reluctantly slots home. When warm, it is much easier. Not a massive problem - if this was the only clutch symptom, I probably wouldn't even be mentioning it.

2.) it is impossible for me to get the box into reverse without crunching! This is the same hot or cold, and it seems to make no difference if I put it into 5th or 4th first. Is there a knack to the 4th or 5th trick (ie. do I have to raise the clutch as well and get some 'bite', or should just the gearstick movement be enough?)

3.) when the car is cold I can regularly 'beat' the gearbox when changing gear. I don't have to be pushing hard to do this! I can be trundling along in 2nd, go for 3rd, depress the clutch, push the gearknob and get a very slight 'crunch' before it finds home, almost as if I'm moving my hand too quickly for the clutch.

any opinions welcome . .... and if you do think it is on the way out, any suggestions for replacement would be welcomed (happy to shell out for an upgraded clutch if you think it could be worth it with standard 4.0l power).

cheers
David

[Targarama]

Sounds like the plate and mech are not completely releasing when you push the pedal. Not sure if there is any adjustment though.

[Don1]

As for getting it into gear (1st and Reverse), I rock the car slightly to get it smoothly into first (if it doesn't go first time), and reverse, I always put it into 5th, before bringing it down into reverse.

[tail slide]

3rd is a better bet than 5th before selecting reverse (after using various TVR's with these gearboxes for 15 years)

I had a new clutch last week, that failed but was not worn, and helped (a little!) the TVR garage do the work so asked many questions of the experienced mechanic who did it.

Unfortunately, these are the symptoms of a clutch not disengaging properly, esp no. 3. If lucky, the fluid may just need bleeding or a leak fixing (any signs of fluid under car or under driver's carpet?) Is the reservoir full (behind pedals)?

Otherwise will be problem with broken release 'fingers', worn clutch plates (can happen at low mileages if clutch has often been held down at junctions rather than put into neutral) or a few other causes.

Advice from TVR specialists is now that the current AP clutch is actually better than the claimed uprated ones. If you can see no leaks, suggest needs investigating properly before it fails completely, which can sometimes be sudden.

Edited by tail slide on Tuesday 7th October 19:02

[hairyaardvark]

ok guys thanks - great stuff, although the news isn't that great I suppose ;0(

Oh well I will be visiting RG TVR quite soon after all then ... will ask them to look it over.

cheers again
David

[tail slide]

Good luck, hope it's one the minor probs.

[Targarama]

Mine was changed for an AP (TVR std) friction plate with a Clever-Trevor modified release bearing. It feels much meatier than the original clutch and I can get reverse without any crunching with no need to reselect a forward gear beforehand.

[Barry Ashcroft]

It sounds like your problem is broken fingers on the pressure plate not allowing the clutch to fully disengage or the slave cylinder failing both require the gearbox being removed and while it's apart it will pay to replace the whole thing.
Same thing happened to mine at 17k

Edited by Barry Ashcroft on Tuesday 7th October 22:37

[hairyaardvark]

Thanks for all the replies guys ... sounds like the concensus is that the thing is on the way out. Bugger.

Funny that the problems only occur when the car is cold though? (apart from the reverse crunching, which happens every time)

[WorAl]

Could it not be the clutch slave cylinder, mine is in the garage now with the same symptoms as you describe and it needs at least the piston seals on the cylinder replaced, possibly the cylinder itself if scored

[Neil20]

I had virtually the same sypmtons,took into RG for service they said they slave cylider was leaking slightly and needs replacing.
while they did the work i had the clutch changed and it completely transformed the drive.
Virtually no crunching (thats me i think)



best of luck

[KillerJim]

Hi,

You have exactly the same problems as what I`m having at the moment!

Its the clutch not clearing correctly (i.e. even with your foot on the floor the clutch is still not disengaged fully)

The "trick" until you have it sorted is to start the car in 1st or reverse first, also when needing to put it into 1st (i.e. coming to traffic lights) attempt to put it into first (she won`t go in) when you are around 10mph and she will 'fall in' as your breaking to a halt..

I should have mine fixed in a week or 2

J

[hairyaardvark]

Yep - that sounds exactly like it, thanks for the tip.
Let me know how your 'fix' goes ... and what was required.

cheers!
DaveR

[KillerJim]

hairyaardvark said:

Yep - that sounds exactly like it, thanks for the tip.
Let me know how your 'fix' goes ... and what was required.

cheers!
DaveR

New clutch - covered by AutoProtect

My servier says that some of the clutches on the Sagaris and late T350's had an issue with clearing as the miles racked up.. The surface on my clutch is fine (at 15k miles) it's just not clearing correctly.

J