Few T350 questions
Discussion
I'm viewing my first 350 this weekend and have a few questions;
Stone chips - I know this is pretty common on most TVRs but how badly are the 350s affected and what level is acceptable? I know the one I'm going to see has what has been described as minor chips above the armourfend. Also, it's a reflex/flip paint so how easy are these to touch up/respray? If I wanted a basic front end respray is this a feasible job on these?
Clutch - the car is a 2005, 54 plate with 12.8k on the clock and on the original clutch. IIRC they tend to wear around this mileage - is that correct and I should budget for a new clutch every 12000 miles? Also whats the best way to test for this?
Engine mounts - common IIRC but whats the best way to check them?
I'm not too fussed about a few cosmetic bits and pieces (it has a tear in the seat bolster, stone chips etc) as long as the mechanicals are sound and the price is right but are there any other areas/points to check?
Stone chips - I know this is pretty common on most TVRs but how badly are the 350s affected and what level is acceptable? I know the one I'm going to see has what has been described as minor chips above the armourfend. Also, it's a reflex/flip paint so how easy are these to touch up/respray? If I wanted a basic front end respray is this a feasible job on these?
Clutch - the car is a 2005, 54 plate with 12.8k on the clock and on the original clutch. IIRC they tend to wear around this mileage - is that correct and I should budget for a new clutch every 12000 miles? Also whats the best way to test for this?
Engine mounts - common IIRC but whats the best way to check them?
I'm not too fussed about a few cosmetic bits and pieces (it has a tear in the seat bolster, stone chips etc) as long as the mechanicals are sound and the price is right but are there any other areas/points to check?
I think you will find minor chips on most T350's, they do attract chips even with out sitting up someones arse. My front end is about 550gbp to re-spray but a flip paint would cost more i should imagine.
My car is the same age as the one you're going to look at with a couple of k's more mileage and the clutch is fine, touch wood! Obviously if selecting a gear is crunching the gear box or it's difficult to select a gear that would be a pretty good indication that it's on the way out;). Selecting 3rd or 5th before reverse is always recommended aswell and try not to sit idling with the clutch de-pressed.
Engine mounts can be a problem and i've had to replace mine on the near side as the engine had dropped slightly. You should be able to see if they've cracked and if they do need replacing it would be an idea to get some sort of extra heat shielding around them to prevent this in future.
As for tips your best bet is to try and track down the previous owner, they could more than likely be on here and ask them some questions.
HTH
My car is the same age as the one you're going to look at with a couple of k's more mileage and the clutch is fine, touch wood! Obviously if selecting a gear is crunching the gear box or it's difficult to select a gear that would be a pretty good indication that it's on the way out;). Selecting 3rd or 5th before reverse is always recommended aswell and try not to sit idling with the clutch de-pressed.
Engine mounts can be a problem and i've had to replace mine on the near side as the engine had dropped slightly. You should be able to see if they've cracked and if they do need replacing it would be an idea to get some sort of extra heat shielding around them to prevent this in future.
As for tips your best bet is to try and track down the previous owner, they could more than likely be on here and ask them some questions.
HTH
Mine (54reg) has got just one or two stonechips on the nose, but quite a few on the wing mirrors! Maybe my wheels are too wide!
It's is on its third clutch, though first two were standard (fragile?) TVR ones, and perhaps the car was not driven so sympathetically by former owners (it lived in London for a while, which is not ideal!). I finally had a Raceapproved clutch fitted at 15K miles for about £1200, and it was a proper relief! I always start mine with the clutch down to ease the load, and always take it out of gear at junctions to avoid holding down the clutch for too long.
I had the nearside engine mount changed at the last service. Not sure it's easy to see the mount in place (possibly from underneath) but as the engine was sagging slightly it seemed to make the gear change a bit clunky, as it was smoother as soon as the new mount was fitted (that was before I got a new clutch!).
It's is on its third clutch, though first two were standard (fragile?) TVR ones, and perhaps the car was not driven so sympathetically by former owners (it lived in London for a while, which is not ideal!). I finally had a Raceapproved clutch fitted at 15K miles for about £1200, and it was a proper relief! I always start mine with the clutch down to ease the load, and always take it out of gear at junctions to avoid holding down the clutch for too long.
I had the nearside engine mount changed at the last service. Not sure it's easy to see the mount in place (possibly from underneath) but as the engine was sagging slightly it seemed to make the gear change a bit clunky, as it was smoother as soon as the new mount was fitted (that was before I got a new clutch!).
tobeee said:
....... I always start mine with the clutch down to ease the load, and always take it out of gear at junctions to avoid holding down the clutch for too long.
I think that's the main difference you can make actually; my std AP clutch/slave cylinder were still fine at 26k miles, with similar care at junctions but including trackdays, standing starts etc. The Raceproved one (which is a refurbished AP) fitted as part of other upgrades unfortunately only lasted 3k.Edited by tail slide on Wednesday 8th October 17:42
Lots of stone chips might mean the car has been driven quite hard - and why not. I'd expect a careful owner to have touched these up, though. If you can live with it why worry, these cars like to be driven
Clutch - mine is an 03 plate with almost 36k miles and has had no clutch replacement, so it is possible and I wouldn't say I'm overly gentle.
Mounts - offside will go several times do to the amount of heat. Prepare for it and get used to it - mine is on its third. Cheap part but a pain to fit, so probably 2x hours labour - which, believe me, you won't notice on a 12k service!
Clutch - mine is an 03 plate with almost 36k miles and has had no clutch replacement, so it is possible and I wouldn't say I'm overly gentle.
Mounts - offside will go several times do to the amount of heat. Prepare for it and get used to it - mine is on its third. Cheap part but a pain to fit, so probably 2x hours labour - which, believe me, you won't notice on a 12k service!
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