Headlight covers
Discussion
So I've finally coughed up for 2 new headlight covers and bought Silkaflex and Ambersil gunk to stick them on and do the surrounds.
Anyone got any tips on how to do the Ambersil filler stage without making a pig's ear of it?
Is it best to mask off the cover and paintwork and then smooth it with a wet finger (ooo errr missus etc.) or does the stuff flow well enough to fill the space itself?
Would rather get a few tips before having a go as I don't think this stuff comes off too easily if I mess it up.
Anyone got any tips on how to do the Ambersil filler stage without making a pig's ear of it?
Is it best to mask off the cover and paintwork and then smooth it with a wet finger (ooo errr missus etc.) or does the stuff flow well enough to fill the space itself?
Would rather get a few tips before having a go as I don't think this stuff comes off too easily if I mess it up.
Worth getting a couple of bits of perspex & plastic/fibreglass to try and hone your technique on first, if you've got more than enough gunk for both? Did both mine a month or so ago, purfect result first time...
(1) Mask round front face of perspex cover using masking tape, 2" is good hung over the edge and shaved off so as only to cover the face.
(2)I used model tape (or electrical tape I guess) mask round the edge light shape on body where the cover fits. Electrical tape will bend to the shape of the light.
(3) keep sikaflex (221) in the house where its warm, its a beast to get out of the cartridge gun when cold, apply small bead to the body of the car where the suface of the cover meets the body (thus creating a seal)Sikaflex has good grab strength so it should sit in place.....
(4) Apply silicone seal into the gap between the body and the lense cover, use finger to push and smooth sealant into gap. Peal off masks off created in 1&2 that will have the excess silicone on them and run wetted finger over sealant again to create finiish.
I am sure there are many ways to go about this but as I say managed it first time, no mess or fuss and hardly used any of the sealants. No more mist either!
Shep
(1) Mask round front face of perspex cover using masking tape, 2" is good hung over the edge and shaved off so as only to cover the face.
(2)I used model tape (or electrical tape I guess) mask round the edge light shape on body where the cover fits. Electrical tape will bend to the shape of the light.
(3) keep sikaflex (221) in the house where its warm, its a beast to get out of the cartridge gun when cold, apply small bead to the body of the car where the suface of the cover meets the body (thus creating a seal)Sikaflex has good grab strength so it should sit in place.....
(4) Apply silicone seal into the gap between the body and the lense cover, use finger to push and smooth sealant into gap. Peal off masks off created in 1&2 that will have the excess silicone on them and run wetted finger over sealant again to create finiish.
I am sure there are many ways to go about this but as I say managed it first time, no mess or fuss and hardly used any of the sealants. No more mist either!
Shep
Thanks.
I may need to wait until the weather gets warmer to do the Ambersil bit but I'll probably glue them in with Sikaflex straight away.
Incidently, I've drilled very small holes through the headlight base in my Tam while the covers have been off so any condensation can drain. The vents should mean that the interior and exterior are at equal temperature, pressure and humidity. Hopefully the new covers will stay in place for longer as well.
I may need to wait until the weather gets warmer to do the Ambersil bit but I'll probably glue them in with Sikaflex straight away.
Incidently, I've drilled very small holes through the headlight base in my Tam while the covers have been off so any condensation can drain. The vents should mean that the interior and exterior are at equal temperature, pressure and humidity. Hopefully the new covers will stay in place for longer as well.
I didn't bother with the holes but it seems to be fine. Watch the cure time on the Sikaflex, the colder the temp the longer the cure, go to their website and download or look at the MSDS sheet for it, Full cure is longer than 24hrs for a 3mm bead, best to do it when the car is not needed just in case they pop off if you drive it too soon.
Ooooo heck!
The new ones have arrived and they don't have the black surround that the old ones had.
Rang the dealer and they said yep that's how they are. The surround is put on when they are fitted and they may need trimming as well!
So this is looking a bit more complicated that I was hoping.
Anyone have any experience of doing a replacement under these circumstances? Did you spray on the band and what type of paint did you use?
The new ones have arrived and they don't have the black surround that the old ones had.
Rang the dealer and they said yep that's how they are. The surround is put on when they are fitted and they may need trimming as well!
So this is looking a bit more complicated that I was hoping.
Anyone have any experience of doing a replacement under these circumstances? Did you spray on the band and what type of paint did you use?
Yep they are correct. Its a job for the old model tape again or the stuff used on cars to put stripes on (it will bend to a smooth curve at both the top/bottom of the cover). mask 15mm band round the outside and paint. I used plasti-kote fast dry enamel painted on with a small paint brush (like the ones used to paint models) less messy and time consuming than masking the cover to spray.
Shep
Shep
Edited by shep1001 on Tuesday 6th January 17:13
Gassing Station | Tamora, T350 & Sagaris | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff