T350 rear diffuser
Author
Discussion

Road Hog

Original Poster:

2,658 posts

242 months

Tuesday 24th February 2009
quotequote all
getting sick of repairing it , think i am going to paint the underside black.

anyone else had any ingenious ideas?

wellyone

123 posts

229 months

Wednesday 25th February 2009
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Assuming it's the two "blades" that are hitting the road, I bolted and bonded a narrow stainless steel strip on the bottom of each blade to act as skid plates. Been in place 4 years and no further damage.

darkmark07

702 posts

227 months

Wednesday 25th February 2009
quotequote all
wellyone said:
Assuming it's the two "blades" that are hitting the road, I bolted and bonded a narrow stainless steel strip on the bottom of each blade to act as skid plates. Been in place 4 years and no further damage.
Good work... and sparks too I'll bet biggrin

Are the strips the same width as the 'blades' or slightly narrower?

Blue-Lightning

416 posts

268 months

Wednesday 25th February 2009
quotequote all
wellyone said:
Assuming it's the two "blades" that are hitting the road, I bolted and bonded a narrow stainless steel strip on the bottom of each blade to act as skid plates. Been in place 4 years and no further damage.
Any pictures of how you did this, as I need to do something with mine as well.

tail slide

2,169 posts

276 months

Wednesday 25th February 2009
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Another option is adjustable dampers/ride height with firmer springs as per Sagaris, if you've not got them yet, as the originals are p.poor.

Mine never grounds now and I have some very bumpy 70mph B-roads locally, & back to original ride height. bounce

SteveO...

466 posts

254 months

Wednesday 25th February 2009
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wellyone said:
I bolted and bonded a narrow stainless steel strip on the bottom of each blade to act as skid plates.
I've been thinking about something like this too. Can you share any pics?

wellyone

123 posts

229 months

Thursday 26th February 2009
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Here are some photo's of the skid strips. You will also see I have protected the exhaust cooling air scoop. As I stated earlier the thin strips are bolted with stainless cap screws and nuts/washers on the inside of the diffuser. They are also bonded with Araldite. The plate on the cooling scoop is held with just the bolts.
[URL=http://s652.photobucket.com/albums/uu246/davidwelton/?action=view&current=DSCN1685.jpg][/URL]
[URL=http://s652.photobucket.com/albums/uu246/davidwelton/?action=view&current=DSCN1686.jpg][/URL]
[URL=http://s652.photobucket.com/albums/uu246/davidwelton/?action=view&current=DSCN1687.jpg][/URL]
[URL=http://s652.photobucket.com/albums/uu246/davidwelton/?action=view&current=DSCN1689.jpg][/URL]

darkmark07

702 posts

227 months

Thursday 26th February 2009
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Great work - thanks for posting that.

Next question: how do you remove the diffuser??

wellyone

123 posts

229 months

Thursday 26th February 2009
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Hi Mark, Remove the 2 Cap screws at either side of the diffuser shown in photo 1. Then remove 2 more which you can see if you look upwards through the 2 vent holes in the back of the diffuser, its the holes on the top row next to the exhaust pipe outlets. Finally there are two nuts and bolts at the front of the exhaust cooling air scoop, you will need to jack the car up to get at these last two.

Road Hog

Original Poster:

2,658 posts

242 months

Thursday 26th February 2009
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mine has 3 bolts in the vent holes .

darkmark07

702 posts

227 months

Friday 27th February 2009
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wellyone said:
Hi Mark, Remove the 2 Cap screws at either side of the diffuser shown in photo 1. Then remove 2 more which you can see if you look upwards through the 2 vent holes in the back of the diffuser, its the holes on the top row next to the exhaust pipe outlets. Finally there are two nuts and bolts at the front of the exhaust cooling air scoop, you will need to jack the car up to get at these last two.
Thanks a lot smile

Will give me something to do at the weekend!