Reducing temp in cabin - dividing panel in wing?
Discussion
I'm trying to help reduce cabin temperatures in my T350c as much as possible as I'm getting fed up of being so hot!
I've noticed that I do not have a dividing panel between the side of the radiator and the wing / headlight to stop hot air being drawn into the cabin ventilation intake. I am guessing that this really would make a difference especially in traffic and will also mean the air-con has less of a job to do. After an age trawling through here remembering I saw a post about this a couple of years ago which I couldn't find I eventually found a post with a photo from Graham Varley's Sagaris.
Where can I get one of these from? Will it be a case of cutting something to size just to fit? I swear I saw someone talk about doing this on Pistonheads some years ago, I just can't find it!
As an alternative would it be possible to run a pipe (something like flexible tubing off of cooker hoods, tumble driers etc.) between the air intake and the gap under the headlight? I've not seen the air intake so I don't know what it looks like.
I've also got a tear in the rubber seal around my gearstick which lets a lot of hot air in from the engine bay into the cabin. This is made worse when the windows are open as it creates a route for the air to flow in and out of the cabin. This is a real pain. The gaiter is also not fully stuck on so it is like holding your hand over a hand drier when you reach over to the gear stick
I've got Graham's workshop manual and hope to try and sort some of these issues out using that. I'm not sure how to repair the rubber gaiter though?
I've noticed that I do not have a dividing panel between the side of the radiator and the wing / headlight to stop hot air being drawn into the cabin ventilation intake. I am guessing that this really would make a difference especially in traffic and will also mean the air-con has less of a job to do. After an age trawling through here remembering I saw a post about this a couple of years ago which I couldn't find I eventually found a post with a photo from Graham Varley's Sagaris.
Where can I get one of these from? Will it be a case of cutting something to size just to fit? I swear I saw someone talk about doing this on Pistonheads some years ago, I just can't find it!
As an alternative would it be possible to run a pipe (something like flexible tubing off of cooker hoods, tumble driers etc.) between the air intake and the gap under the headlight? I've not seen the air intake so I don't know what it looks like.
I've also got a tear in the rubber seal around my gearstick which lets a lot of hot air in from the engine bay into the cabin. This is made worse when the windows are open as it creates a route for the air to flow in and out of the cabin. This is a real pain. The gaiter is also not fully stuck on so it is like holding your hand over a hand drier when you reach over to the gear stick
I've got Graham's workshop manual and hope to try and sort some of these issues out using that. I'm not sure how to repair the rubber gaiter though?Have you made sure that the 'flap zero' pod setting is correct? I adjusted mine recently (to 26 was 16) and it has made a huge difference.
Do you notice hot air coming in through the vents on the top of the dash even when set to fully 'cold'? If so, have a fiddle around in the menus...
Cheers,
Mark
Do you notice hot air coming in through the vents on the top of the dash even when set to fully 'cold'? If so, have a fiddle around in the menus...
Cheers,
Mark
I've check that and I'm getting no air out of the top vents when set to full cold so the flap settings must be ok.
The air-con is broken at the moment so I'm just getting through normal ambient temperature air. This is ok for a while but as soon as you're not moving quickly or when the car gets some heat soak (stopping for a break after a long motorway journey for example) the air from the cold vents quickly heats up and you get hot air blown in your face. Turning off the vents and opening the window is then the only solution, but when you open the window you I get very hot air coming up through the transmission tunnel into the cabin through the gearstick hole. You just can't win...
I'm looking for some heat foil tape stuff which I can use to stop some heat coming from the transmission tunnel at the moment and will also try sealing the glove box a little better to aid the air-con when it does work.
The air-con is broken at the moment so I'm just getting through normal ambient temperature air. This is ok for a while but as soon as you're not moving quickly or when the car gets some heat soak (stopping for a break after a long motorway journey for example) the air from the cold vents quickly heats up and you get hot air blown in your face. Turning off the vents and opening the window is then the only solution, but when you open the window you I get very hot air coming up through the transmission tunnel into the cabin through the gearstick hole. You just can't win...
I'm looking for some heat foil tape stuff which I can use to stop some heat coming from the transmission tunnel at the moment and will also try sealing the glove box a little better to aid the air-con when it does work.
Nick,
As above make cardboard profile, then cut from hardboard or similar then silicone in place or use builders 'kingspan foil tape' for tempoary seal that also reflects the heat.
You will get results! even though the aircon is not working.
Gearstick gaiter needs replacing to rectify, Andy at power should be able to help with part number etc
Graham V
As above make cardboard profile, then cut from hardboard or similar then silicone in place or use builders 'kingspan foil tape' for tempoary seal that also reflects the heat.
You will get results! even though the aircon is not working.
Gearstick gaiter needs replacing to rectify, Andy at power should be able to help with part number etc
Graham V
VARLEYHYD said:
Nick,
As above make cardboard profile, then cut from hardboard or similar then silicone in place or use builders 'kingspan foil tape' for tempoary seal that also reflects the heat.
You will get results! even though the aircon is not working.
Gearstick gaiter needs replacing to rectify, Andy at power should be able to help with part number etc
Graham V
Hi NickAs above make cardboard profile, then cut from hardboard or similar then silicone in place or use builders 'kingspan foil tape' for tempoary seal that also reflects the heat.
You will get results! even though the aircon is not working.
Gearstick gaiter needs replacing to rectify, Andy at power should be able to help with part number etc
Graham V
Got my replacement gaiter from Castle TVR. Part # E0096#TV was about £20 inc P&P. they don't always fit, mine had been stretched to cover the hole in the body (which is why it split) so I added a rubber surround and used silicone to seal it up. Less heat and noise.
Cheers guys, I will try and make a template up one evening this week. I could try and fit the cardboard with some duct tape and see if I notice a difference with that in place. I might try and get a friend to get something cut to size at his workshop actually if I can create a decent enough template.
Graham, what is your panel screwed to in that photo?
Thanks for the part number for the gearbox gaiter. Is this the same part: http://www.tvrspareparts.com/part/550/gearbox-gait...
It says that the part fits "Cerbera V8, Griffith, Chimaera, Cerbera SP6" but no mention of T350. This will really help with keeping the hot air out of the cabin!
I also have a problem where the reversing light comes on briefly when changing into 5th (it used to come on and stay on in 5th but now it just flashes on during the gear change). I might see if I can fix that while I'm there.
EDIT: I've just spotted this part as well: http://www.tvrspareparts.com/part/536/gear-lever-g...
This doesn't look like how I recall the rubber gaiter looking though, I'm sure it looks more like the one pictured in the photo above.
Graham, what is your panel screwed to in that photo?
Thanks for the part number for the gearbox gaiter. Is this the same part: http://www.tvrspareparts.com/part/550/gearbox-gait...
It says that the part fits "Cerbera V8, Griffith, Chimaera, Cerbera SP6" but no mention of T350. This will really help with keeping the hot air out of the cabin!
I also have a problem where the reversing light comes on briefly when changing into 5th (it used to come on and stay on in 5th but now it just flashes on during the gear change). I might see if I can fix that while I'm there.
EDIT: I've just spotted this part as well: http://www.tvrspareparts.com/part/536/gear-lever-g...
This doesn't look like how I recall the rubber gaiter looking though, I'm sure it looks more like the one pictured in the photo above.
Edited by NickT on Monday 11th May 17:53
NickT said:
Cheers guys, I will try and make a template up one evening this week. I could try and fit the cardboard with some duct tape and see if I notice a difference with that in place. I might try and get a friend to get something cut to size at his workshop actually if I can create a decent enough template.
Graham, what is your panel screwed to in that photo?
Thanks for the part number for the gearbox gaiter. Is this the same part: http://www.tvrspareparts.com/part/550/gearbox-gait...
It says that the part fits "Cerbera V8, Griffith, Chimaera, Cerbera SP6" but no mention of T350. This will really help with keeping the hot air out of the cabin!
I also have a problem where the reversing light comes on briefly when changing into 5th (it used to come on and stay on in 5th but now it just flashes on during the gear change). I might see if I can fix that while I'm there.
The pic on the link is the LOWER boot (there are two), you need the other one.Graham, what is your panel screwed to in that photo?
Thanks for the part number for the gearbox gaiter. Is this the same part: http://www.tvrspareparts.com/part/550/gearbox-gait...
It says that the part fits "Cerbera V8, Griffith, Chimaera, Cerbera SP6" but no mention of T350. This will really help with keeping the hot air out of the cabin!
I also have a problem where the reversing light comes on briefly when changing into 5th (it used to come on and stay on in 5th but now it just flashes on during the gear change). I might see if I can fix that while I'm there.
Yep, off something french not sure what but fits the Tam with a little bit of effort and some silicone!. Its not symetrical (length ways hole to hole) so when you come to fit it one way fits better than the other when places over the gear stick! You might need to trim the top bit also so it fits over the gear stick stubb. Easy to see when you have the bit in the car. There is a micro switch down there somewhere that might just want moving a little to stop the reversing light problem
Edited by shep1001 on Monday 11th May 18:04
To add to others' helpful posts, I can confirm that the lower boot that you have a pic of is the main one to stop heat coming through - mine needed sorting after putting Quaife 'box in and various times since as engine's been out a few times during development. I assume yours is ripped or missing?
A new one definitely needs sealing thoroughly all around the edge with silicone to stop hot air getting through, not just fitted using the screws alone. It's under a fair bit of pressure when you open a window.
A new one definitely needs sealing thoroughly all around the edge with silicone to stop hot air getting through, not just fitted using the screws alone. It's under a fair bit of pressure when you open a window.
Edited by tail slide on Monday 11th May 20:18
Mine is ripped, I can even see the road by just pushing the leather gaiter to the side (that has come unstuck as well). I'm not sure how it ended up like this, it must have been during time at the garage when there was a lot of work done on the car.
There is definitely a fair bit of pressure when you open the window through that gaiter as I have been experiencing the hot air blowing through there from the engine for some time now!
I shall get a new gaiter as it sounds like it will make a big difference. I'll have to buy some silicone, anyone know which is the best all purpose silicone for a TVR? Looking at Graham's workshop manual I've noticed that "Ambersil black flexible sealant" is recommended, is this the one:
I've found this for £7.74 delivered from eBay. Anyone suggest somewhere better to get this? I've noticed TVR Power are selling some Loctite silicone for £29.99 +VAT ( http://www.powerstores.co.uk/?t=si&item=431)!
Will getting some aluminium tape to stick on the back of the glove box and maybe inside the dash where the cold air runs also help things?
There is definitely a fair bit of pressure when you open the window through that gaiter as I have been experiencing the hot air blowing through there from the engine for some time now!
I shall get a new gaiter as it sounds like it will make a big difference. I'll have to buy some silicone, anyone know which is the best all purpose silicone for a TVR? Looking at Graham's workshop manual I've noticed that "Ambersil black flexible sealant" is recommended, is this the one:
I've found this for £7.74 delivered from eBay. Anyone suggest somewhere better to get this? I've noticed TVR Power are selling some Loctite silicone for £29.99 +VAT ( http://www.powerstores.co.uk/?t=si&item=431)!
Will getting some aluminium tape to stick on the back of the glove box and maybe inside the dash where the cold air runs also help things?
Edited by NickT on Tuesday 12th May 00:07
NickT said:
Is this something which was fitted by the factory on later models? Where is it fixed to? I'll have to have a look tonight to see what I can do. Hopefully it will make long hot European driving trips more tolerable, especially when the air-con is playing up!
Yes correct, my late 05 car has a panel on the NS.NickT said:
Graham, what is your panel screwed to in that photo?
My panel on the Sagaris was factory fitted but is screwed into a frame fixed to body.The sealant best used for the gear gaiter is same as the Power stuff -loctite 598 RTV high temp gasket seal(not the ambersil-for lamp lens)
G
triac said:
Yes correct, my late 05 car has a panel on the NS.
I'm guessing that this isn't something that can be ordered off of the shelf then with Power etc.? I'm sure I'll be able to fabricate something.VARLEYHYD said:
The sealant best used for the gear gaiter is same as the Power stuff -loctite 598 RTV high temp gasket seal(not the ambersil-for lamp lens)
G
I've found the Loctite Gasket Seal Black 598 in Halfords for £5.49 for 95g, I wonder if this will be a sufficient amount.G
I've ordered a new gaiter from TVR Power along with some silicone, they said the Loctite stuff may be overkill for sticking this in so are sending an alternative cheaper option.
I've asked Power about the dividing panel and they are actually trying to get some made up so they can provide this as a spare part. They will let me know when they know more, they are expecting to know in the next few weeks. I might try sticking in some cardboard or similar to see if I notice much of a difference in the mean time.
I've asked Power about the dividing panel and they are actually trying to get some made up so they can provide this as a spare part. They will let me know when they know more, they are expecting to know in the next few weeks. I might try sticking in some cardboard or similar to see if I notice much of a difference in the mean time.
Good news
Graham, I'm also going to try and make some of the improvements you made to your car:
Where can you get a different non-aluminium gear stick? Are they standard parts from Demon Tweaks etc.?
Graham, I'm also going to try and make some of the improvements you made to your car:
Graham's TVR Sagaris Pages said:
...I further improved the heat insulation by taking out the glove box and sealing it better and also creating a barrier with aluminium foil tape between the upper dash and the lower to reduce/stop heat transfer when the car warms up. (to take out remove two screws, lift front edge and roll upwards and back)
I also insulated the gearbox/prop tunnel to stop heat soak to the cabin whilst changing the reverse switch and made a additional gaiter for the gear stick, and plugged the hot air leaks that come from behind the POD.
The transferred heat on the gear knob can be rectified by changing the aluminium gear stick to a Tufnell or similar like wise with the hand brake.
I'm interested to know how you managed to insulate the gearbox/prop tunnel further?I also insulated the gearbox/prop tunnel to stop heat soak to the cabin whilst changing the reverse switch and made a additional gaiter for the gear stick, and plugged the hot air leaks that come from behind the POD.
The transferred heat on the gear knob can be rectified by changing the aluminium gear stick to a Tufnell or similar like wise with the hand brake.
Where can you get a different non-aluminium gear stick? Are they standard parts from Demon Tweaks etc.?
NickT said:
Where can you get a different non-aluminium gear stick? Are they standard parts from Demon Tweaks etc.?
Specially made- silly expensive unless you have the materials/machines etc.You could change just the knob to a halfrauds carbon one if you like that type of look.
This may solve the problem of your burning knob
, but will still cause cabin heat1/2"UNF thread
G
I've made up a make-shift cardboard dividing panel and covered the side facing the radiator with aluminium tape to try and reflect as much heat as possible and the other side with duct tape to make it waterproof. This seems to have improved the coldness of the cold air but it is only wedged in place so there are still some gaps.
I have a friend who can make up a panel out of aluminium, various types of plastic and other materials if supplied with a template. He uses computer controlled machines to cut these various materials to a template. If I can get an exact template I can get something made up, and possibly get a number of them made up for anyone who needs one. I just need to create an accurate template, if someone has an original panel and are willing to send me an outline of it that would be much appreciated! At the moment I'm trying to create something using various bits of cardboard and it isn't going to successfully to get something to fit exactly
One thing I did notice during a long drive on Friday around the Lake District and then back down to Cambridge (many hours in the car) was that there was a trickle of hot air (VERY hot air actually) coming from the hot air vents which made the cabin even hotter (unbearable at times, including having to put a sock on the gear knob as it was painful changing gear!). The hot air came through with fans turned off or on and always set to full cold (I also get a trickle of air with fans turned off through the cold vents). When the car is standing still and you play around with the flap settings I checked that there was absolutely no air coming from the hot air vents so I'm not sure why it leaks the hot air!? I can't close the vent fully in the driver's foot well so I was getting a progressively hotter leg which wasn't nice!
I also had a problem where one of my cats came loose while in the Lakes, this meant there was hot air blowing down the transmission tunnel causing the cabin to become unbearable at times (I think this was the issue). With no air-con at the moment it wasn't very nice.
I have a friend who can make up a panel out of aluminium, various types of plastic and other materials if supplied with a template. He uses computer controlled machines to cut these various materials to a template. If I can get an exact template I can get something made up, and possibly get a number of them made up for anyone who needs one. I just need to create an accurate template, if someone has an original panel and are willing to send me an outline of it that would be much appreciated! At the moment I'm trying to create something using various bits of cardboard and it isn't going to successfully to get something to fit exactly
One thing I did notice during a long drive on Friday around the Lake District and then back down to Cambridge (many hours in the car) was that there was a trickle of hot air (VERY hot air actually) coming from the hot air vents which made the cabin even hotter (unbearable at times, including having to put a sock on the gear knob as it was painful changing gear!). The hot air came through with fans turned off or on and always set to full cold (I also get a trickle of air with fans turned off through the cold vents). When the car is standing still and you play around with the flap settings I checked that there was absolutely no air coming from the hot air vents so I'm not sure why it leaks the hot air!? I can't close the vent fully in the driver's foot well so I was getting a progressively hotter leg which wasn't nice!
I also had a problem where one of my cats came loose while in the Lakes, this meant there was hot air blowing down the transmission tunnel causing the cabin to become unbearable at times (I think this was the issue). With no air-con at the moment it wasn't very nice.
Edited by NickT on Monday 1st June 16:52
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