Replacing the throttle cable
Discussion
So, for the second time only, after nearly 4 years of ownership, the Tamora let me down today. Throttle cable snapped (again because thats what happened last time!).
Do I source one myself and try and fit it or am it better off paying a man who can. I am no oily wrag, but willing to have a crack if no specialist tools are required and its just a bit of effort.
Opinions please.
Do I source one myself and try and fit it or am it better off paying a man who can. I am no oily wrag, but willing to have a crack if no specialist tools are required and its just a bit of effort.
Opinions please.
This happened to me just a couple of weeks ago on the way to Beaulieu
The AA man sorted me out temporarily, but then went down to Dulfords the following weekend to have a new cable fitted.
I watched the whole process of changing the throttle cable. It involved taking the air box completely out, then removing the plate which sits behind the pedles (got them to shave off 10mm either side of the metal plate so that it was easier to refit), then feeding the cable through the bulk head and connecting onto the throttle. The whole process took about an hour, but that was with a skilled guy who knew what he was doing. To be honest, I would not tempt this myself, having seen what needs to be done. It is a very fiddly job, and one I would not cheerish doing.
As it happens they found the cause of the cable snapping, which turned out to be throttle peddal being offset from where it should be, causing the cable to meet the end stop at an angle, which caused it to rub and fray.
Full marks to the Lads at Dulfords in spotting this. The problem was corrected and new cable fitted. My advice is to get it done at you local Independant TVR garage.
The AA man sorted me out temporarily, but then went down to Dulfords the following weekend to have a new cable fitted.
I watched the whole process of changing the throttle cable. It involved taking the air box completely out, then removing the plate which sits behind the pedles (got them to shave off 10mm either side of the metal plate so that it was easier to refit), then feeding the cable through the bulk head and connecting onto the throttle. The whole process took about an hour, but that was with a skilled guy who knew what he was doing. To be honest, I would not tempt this myself, having seen what needs to be done. It is a very fiddly job, and one I would not cheerish doing.
As it happens they found the cause of the cable snapping, which turned out to be throttle peddal being offset from where it should be, causing the cable to meet the end stop at an angle, which caused it to rub and fray.
Full marks to the Lads at Dulfords in spotting this. The problem was corrected and new cable fitted. My advice is to get it done at you local Independant TVR garage.
If your relatively competent, it should take you between 30-45 mins.
Bit fiddly but not difficult. Make sure you see where the old cable is routed and follow the new cable in the same route - you don't want any unnecessary sharp bends in the cable when fitted - it needs to move as freely as possible in its slieve.
Bit fiddly but not difficult. Make sure you see where the old cable is routed and follow the new cable in the same route - you don't want any unnecessary sharp bends in the cable when fitted - it needs to move as freely as possible in its slieve.
L33 said:
If your relatively competent, it should take you between 30-45 mins.
Bit fiddly but not difficult. Make sure you see where the old cable is routed and follow the new cable in the same route - you don't want any unnecessary sharp bends in the cable when fitted - it needs to move as freely as possible in its slieve.
Had mine replaced on the Sag by our trusted indie at the last service. It hadn't snapped fully but I could feel the vibration of each strand snapping through the pedal. He showed me the old cable after and there were three strands remaining, phew.Bit fiddly but not difficult. Make sure you see where the old cable is routed and follow the new cable in the same route - you don't want any unnecessary sharp bends in the cable when fitted - it needs to move as freely as possible in its slieve.
Anyway the point of my post is that he opined that the original routing was what caused the problem, and that the way the cars were put together at the factory meant this was a common issue. So he used a slightly different routing, which he says has less bends and so should be less prone to the issue. Sorry, can't be more specific as I didn't see him carry out the operation.
As a wise man once said, if you always do what you've always done, you'll always get what you always had
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