No Fuel pump "whir"/prime- Tamora
Discussion
Hi all, apologies if this has been covered extensively but when I searched all I got was 2 matches - which weren't matches.
Last week I turned off my ignition but the main display/dashboard backlight stayed on. It wouldn't go off so by the end of the week my battery was flat. I putt he battery on a slow charge over the weekend and re-fitted the battery - seemed to clear the display lights problem and the car fired up no drama, I didn't drive it though.
I went to drive it last night, I heard the fuel pump prime but, typically the car decided not to start, so I keyed off then keyed on again - but I didn't hear the fuel pump prime so I tried again and again, sometimes it seemed the car would start .. but it just wouldn't, so rather than drain the battery trying I left it.
I checked various fuses this morning and none in the fuse box were faulty. I had a Chimaera before this Tamora and I remember having issues with the fuel pump relays, you could hear them click when you turned the ignition. I'm wondering what the problem could be. One way I tested the fuel pump on the Chimaera when that was faulty to put a battery across the 2 terminals on the pump - which would make the pump buzz/whir if it was working.
Can I do something similar on the Tamora ? Any ideas/thoughts on what could be wrong or what I should try next ? I'm desperate not to have to take it to TVR because funds are pretty low.
Thanks
Last week I turned off my ignition but the main display/dashboard backlight stayed on. It wouldn't go off so by the end of the week my battery was flat. I putt he battery on a slow charge over the weekend and re-fitted the battery - seemed to clear the display lights problem and the car fired up no drama, I didn't drive it though.
I went to drive it last night, I heard the fuel pump prime but, typically the car decided not to start, so I keyed off then keyed on again - but I didn't hear the fuel pump prime so I tried again and again, sometimes it seemed the car would start .. but it just wouldn't, so rather than drain the battery trying I left it.
I checked various fuses this morning and none in the fuse box were faulty. I had a Chimaera before this Tamora and I remember having issues with the fuel pump relays, you could hear them click when you turned the ignition. I'm wondering what the problem could be. One way I tested the fuel pump on the Chimaera when that was faulty to put a battery across the 2 terminals on the pump - which would make the pump buzz/whir if it was working.
Can I do something similar on the Tamora ? Any ideas/thoughts on what could be wrong or what I should try next ? I'm desperate not to have to take it to TVR because funds are pretty low.
Thanks
It might be that the imobiliser may need re-setting, because that I think would prevent the fuel pump prime. Caused by the flat battery. I know I re-set mine years ago when I had similar symptoms, and it resolved the problem. But for the life of me, I couldn't tell how to do it. I was disconnecting and reconnecting something in the passenger footwell, but I can't be more specific than that. Hopefully some other more helpful person will be along in a bit.
There is a fuse in the passenger footwell, located towards the engine. It is situated in a little plastic box, maybe secured by a lace. You need an M10 socket or spanner to loosen the fuse. After shortly disconnecting, refit everything and hope for the best.
Edited by konrad.holl on Tuesday 9th March 11:03
Thanks guys, I'll give that a try when I get home from work or maybe tomorrow morning in the light.
That said - the car did start and was running AFTER I put the fully recharged battery back in .... so ... are you saying this potential immobiliser fault could've appeared after it was previously working ok ?
That said - the car did start and was running AFTER I put the fully recharged battery back in .... so ... are you saying this potential immobiliser fault could've appeared after it was previously working ok ?
Well the reading on the dash says 11.9v so from a 12V battery I would've thought it was ok.
But would a low battery prevent the pump from priming ? You have me thinking now ... I wonder ... maybe it wouldn't. To be honest when I turned the key it did sound a little flat sounding .. as if the power was draining out of the battery ....
How reliable/accurate is the dash display reading for the voltage across the battery, does anyone know ? Might have to buy a multimeter and check it out myself.
But would a low battery prevent the pump from priming ? You have me thinking now ... I wonder ... maybe it wouldn't. To be honest when I turned the key it did sound a little flat sounding .. as if the power was draining out of the battery ....
How reliable/accurate is the dash display reading for the voltage across the battery, does anyone know ? Might have to buy a multimeter and check it out myself.
theHotHead said:
In the boot under said boot carpet I did see the connector and 2 metal pipe-like things ... are they the feeds to the fuel pump ?
yep. the connections on mine weren't carrying current after i stopped at a ferry terminal one morning. RAC bloke poked around and came accross the connector block i mentioned, and after WD-40 treatment, it's been fine ever since.1. Disconnect the battery (remove NS wheel, undo 2 self-tapping screws in the wheel arch). +ve off first.
2. Charge 24hrs.
3. Reconnect terminals, +ve on first.
4. Indicator lights should flash 2x as the alarm sets.
5. Within 30s press the key fob button to disarm the alarm and resynchronise the immobiliser.
6. All should now be well with your P&J.
7. Drive lots and lots with big grin.
Don't forget to repeat 7 regularly.
2. Charge 24hrs.
3. Reconnect terminals, +ve on first.
4. Indicator lights should flash 2x as the alarm sets.
5. Within 30s press the key fob button to disarm the alarm and resynchronise the immobiliser.
6. All should now be well with your P&J.
7. Drive lots and lots with big grin.
Don't forget to repeat 7 regularly.
exactly the same happened to me this afternoon. My battery died the other week and I couldn't get in the car to get my jump leads so had to take the wheel off and try and connect a normal set of jump leads, this worked and I was then able to charge the battery in situ. I didn't manage to start the car with the low battery, but it definitely tried to turn the engine over to start, but even the juice from my tiny battery in my Ibiza wasn't enough to turn the engine over properly so I left it charging.
I went to use my T350 today and my battery charge is saying the battery is fine and is maintaining it (which it switches to once charged). Unfortunately it appears as if my immobaliser was playing up as I have no red light and turning the key to start the car does nothing, the stereo just goes off briefly. I'm guessing it needs resting so I'll give that a go.
There was me thinking I'd finally get a quick blast out in the TVR this afternoon even if if was to just go to Tesco
I went to use my T350 today and my battery charge is saying the battery is fine and is maintaining it (which it switches to once charged). Unfortunately it appears as if my immobaliser was playing up as I have no red light and turning the key to start the car does nothing, the stereo just goes off briefly. I'm guessing it needs resting so I'll give that a go.
There was me thinking I'd finally get a quick blast out in the TVR this afternoon even if if was to just go to Tesco
Are you completely sure the fuel pump isn't whirring? It's not especially loud on the Tamora (well, not on mine in this season anyway) - when you turn the key there are too many other noises to hear the pump.
I had a similar problem a couple of years ago. The car would fire but not run. It was cranking over just fine. No fuel was getting to the fuel rail. I thought the pump wasn't running because it was so quiet. So I delved into the fuel tank (unscrewed the lid inside the boot) and realised the pump was fine - but the pickup pipe had simply dropped off inside the tank. A new hose clip and it fired up straight away.
A few years ago I also had a problem with the immobiliser. When I turned the key the dash would light up but no power would get to the starter motor. I asked on here and someone suggested unplugging and reconnecting the electrical clips in the passenger footwell. Problem solved.
Hope you get it sorted.
I had a similar problem a couple of years ago. The car would fire but not run. It was cranking over just fine. No fuel was getting to the fuel rail. I thought the pump wasn't running because it was so quiet. So I delved into the fuel tank (unscrewed the lid inside the boot) and realised the pump was fine - but the pickup pipe had simply dropped off inside the tank. A new hose clip and it fired up straight away.
A few years ago I also had a problem with the immobiliser. When I turned the key the dash would light up but no power would get to the starter motor. I asked on here and someone suggested unplugging and reconnecting the electrical clips in the passenger footwell. Problem solved.
Hope you get it sorted.
Why do we need to do this !Is it because the dash lights stay on ?My radiator fan stayed on plus the dash lights,
I did replace the batt a few weeks back so is there a right way to replace ?
cheers Burnie.
I did replace the batt a few weeks back so is there a right way to replace ?
cheers Burnie.
rfisher said:
1. Disconnect the battery (remove NS wheel, undo 2 self-tapping screws in the wheel arch). +ve off first.
2. Charge 24hrs.
3. Reconnect terminals, +ve on first.
4. Indicator lights should flash 2x as the alarm sets.
5. Within 30s press the key fob button to disarm the alarm and resynchronise the immobiliser.
6. All should now be well with your P&J.
7. Drive lots and lots with big grin.
Don't forget to repeat 7 regularly.
2. Charge 24hrs.
3. Reconnect terminals, +ve on first.
4. Indicator lights should flash 2x as the alarm sets.
5. Within 30s press the key fob button to disarm the alarm and resynchronise the immobiliser.
6. All should now be well with your P&J.
7. Drive lots and lots with big grin.
Don't forget to repeat 7 regularly.
Yeah - I'm totally sure it is not whirring - its loud and clear in my car.
So I charged the battery for 24 hours, took a reading of 13.5V from the battery. I connected it +ve first, and within 15 secs of connecting the -ve I pressed the alarm fob. I finished putting everything back together and tried the car - no joy. I get the sound that the engine is trying to start but it sounds like there is no fuel getting to it - its a sound I'm familiar with having had a fuel pump problem with my Chimaera.
I looked at some bits and pieces in the car, took some photos, disconnected connectors and reconnected them but still no joy.
So I charged the battery for 24 hours, took a reading of 13.5V from the battery. I connected it +ve first, and within 15 secs of connecting the -ve I pressed the alarm fob. I finished putting everything back together and tried the car - no joy. I get the sound that the engine is trying to start but it sounds like there is no fuel getting to it - its a sound I'm familiar with having had a fuel pump problem with my Chimaera.
I looked at some bits and pieces in the car, took some photos, disconnected connectors and reconnected them but still no joy.
The 1st pic, the passenger footwell, nothing was loose and the fuse behind the thick black tape was intact. There were a few connectors that had nothing connected to them but I couldn't see the other ends dangling loose anywhere so assumed that is how they are meant to be.
The 2nd pic, the boot, I disconnected the white connector and reconnected it - seems to be the fuel sensor - it looked clean (the pins - the plastic exterior wasn't though) and the connection was very strong but the black connector above it in the picture seemed loose and dirty. I couldn't make the connection any better but it does seem to be making a connection because I got readings on my multimeter from the other side of the connector.
Where are the fuel pump connectors ? Are they the 2 metal ends or are they underneath the metal plate that has the many nuts holding it down ??
The 3rd pic, the boot again - the extreme right hand side, the black connector was not connected up - so I connected it as you see but no joy, I have no idea what it does.
I'd love to put a battery across the 2 terminals of the fuel pump to see if I get life, if it is the fuel pump I'm sure I could replace it myself and save a small fortune taking it to TVR.
Any further suggestions ?
The 2nd pic, the boot, I disconnected the white connector and reconnected it - seems to be the fuel sensor - it looked clean (the pins - the plastic exterior wasn't though) and the connection was very strong but the black connector above it in the picture seemed loose and dirty. I couldn't make the connection any better but it does seem to be making a connection because I got readings on my multimeter from the other side of the connector.
Where are the fuel pump connectors ? Are they the 2 metal ends or are they underneath the metal plate that has the many nuts holding it down ??
The 3rd pic, the boot again - the extreme right hand side, the black connector was not connected up - so I connected it as you see but no joy, I have no idea what it does.
I'd love to put a battery across the 2 terminals of the fuel pump to see if I get life, if it is the fuel pump I'm sure I could replace it myself and save a small fortune taking it to TVR.
Any further suggestions ?
Edited by theHotHead on Friday 12th March 13:04
Sounds like you're right, then - the fuel pump.
Did you say the relay is clicking?
Remove all the bolts from the top of the metal plate in your second pic. You'll be able to see the pump (IIRC it sits at the bottom of the tank). Have you checked you're getting power to the connector on top of the plate?
Out of interest, on the underside of the plate will be hoses going down into the tank; on mine the pickup had simply dropped off.
PS You definitely can't hear the fuel pump inside my Tamora. I spent the first year-or-so of ownership thinking I could hear it, when in fact I hadn't realised you could turn the heater blower off by pressing the button...
Did you say the relay is clicking?
Remove all the bolts from the top of the metal plate in your second pic. You'll be able to see the pump (IIRC it sits at the bottom of the tank). Have you checked you're getting power to the connector on top of the plate?
Out of interest, on the underside of the plate will be hoses going down into the tank; on mine the pickup had simply dropped off.
PS You definitely can't hear the fuel pump inside my Tamora. I spent the first year-or-so of ownership thinking I could hear it, when in fact I hadn't realised you could turn the heater blower off by pressing the button...
When you turn the ignition to on you hear various buzzes etc - the relay is in the driver fuse box isn't it ?! Not sure I heard it individually but I can try this weekend.
I know what you mean about the heater, the buzz it makes lets you think it is the fuel pump. But I know I can definitely hear mine because my fan wasn't working for a few months, there as a pin that was burnt out - I only recently resoldered it back properly - so I haven't had the pleasure of a fan for the worst part of the winter .. froze my nuts off - but it did mean I could hear the fuel pump loud and clear.
I'll see if I can check what you have suggested and also get some power to the pump to see what happens.
Cheers.
I know what you mean about the heater, the buzz it makes lets you think it is the fuel pump. But I know I can definitely hear mine because my fan wasn't working for a few months, there as a pin that was burnt out - I only recently resoldered it back properly - so I haven't had the pleasure of a fan for the worst part of the winter .. froze my nuts off - but it did mean I could hear the fuel pump loud and clear.
I'll see if I can check what you have suggested and also get some power to the pump to see what happens.
Cheers.
Peeps .. what readings should I expect to get from the white connector and what wires should I be getting my readings from ?
Using a combination of wires the highest reading I got was 4.85V.
Also - when I loosened 3 of the nuts to remove the metal plate petrol seeped out onto the plate and had me worried so I tightened them up again, is this normal ?
Cheers
Using a combination of wires the highest reading I got was 4.85V.
Also - when I loosened 3 of the nuts to remove the metal plate petrol seeped out onto the plate and had me worried so I tightened them up again, is this normal ?
Cheers
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