Tamora clutch problem
Discussion
It was all going so well - I was driving along and felt the clutch pedal seemed to "stick" down. I used my toe to lift the pedal and it was fine, phew.
I began to wonder why it had stuck down, I'd changed gears 5 or 6 times afterwards quite gingerly then thought - sod it, I'll change gear properly. So I put my foot down on the clutch with the usual amount of force, nothing OTT but not like a whimp either. The pedal stuck down and the car was stuck in neutral. I pulled over to the side of the road and called the recovery people and was recovered home.
So, I have no clutch, there is absolutely no resistance to the pedal being pressed. With other TVRs I've had the clutch fluid leaked out of the master cylinder is it (or slave, I forgot the name). I used to top it up and go on my way. I did replace the cylinder on my Chimaera once.
Any suggestions ? The mechanic shone a light on the pedals and had a quick look at the mechanism, he said the pedal was still attached to the rod and the rod is attached to a "link" I think ... he said it then goes under the car and without having the car lifted off the ground he couldn't tell me where the problem lay.
Any suggestions ? I am hoping I don't need a new clutch.
Bummer.
I began to wonder why it had stuck down, I'd changed gears 5 or 6 times afterwards quite gingerly then thought - sod it, I'll change gear properly. So I put my foot down on the clutch with the usual amount of force, nothing OTT but not like a whimp either. The pedal stuck down and the car was stuck in neutral. I pulled over to the side of the road and called the recovery people and was recovered home.
So, I have no clutch, there is absolutely no resistance to the pedal being pressed. With other TVRs I've had the clutch fluid leaked out of the master cylinder is it (or slave, I forgot the name). I used to top it up and go on my way. I did replace the cylinder on my Chimaera once.
Any suggestions ? The mechanic shone a light on the pedals and had a quick look at the mechanism, he said the pedal was still attached to the rod and the rod is attached to a "link" I think ... he said it then goes under the car and without having the car lifted off the ground he couldn't tell me where the problem lay.
Any suggestions ? I am hoping I don't need a new clutch.
Bummer.
well it sounds very much like the clutch.
if its the slave cylinder you might as well sort the clutch whilst its all out or vice versa.
not sure where you are but Rich at Track V Road did mine and no issues since.
apparently somewhere between 20 and 30k miles and the clutch pops
sorry dude
if its the slave cylinder you might as well sort the clutch whilst its all out or vice versa.
not sure where you are but Rich at Track V Road did mine and no issues since.
apparently somewhere between 20 and 30k miles and the clutch pops
sorry dude
Ok I'm gonna cry ....
Out of interest where is the slave cylinder ? Is it worth checking to see if that is leaking like with previous models ? Maybe I can get by for a little while longer until I get some dosh together to replace the clutch.
Clutch replacements cost ?? On my Cerbera I know it was around £1,500 !! Fall in and out of love with these cars so quickly and easily.
I'm near Tottenham - TVR Centre/Trimar are my nearest dealers. Do you think if I took it to a regular garage they could jack it up and have a look for me ??
Out of interest where is the slave cylinder ? Is it worth checking to see if that is leaking like with previous models ? Maybe I can get by for a little while longer until I get some dosh together to replace the clutch.
Clutch replacements cost ?? On my Cerbera I know it was around £1,500 !! Fall in and out of love with these cars so quickly and easily.
I'm near Tottenham - TVR Centre/Trimar are my nearest dealers. Do you think if I took it to a regular garage they could jack it up and have a look for me ??
TVR Power were doing a clutch replacement for £700 plus VAT over the winter add on for slave cylinder while the work is being done probably around £900-1000 plus VAT unfortunately.
Mate had very similar in his T350 recently all fine one minute then a couple of changes where it didnt want to work and then absolutely nothing. That need a new clutch.
Seem to remember reading on here about an improved design clutch for them but cant recall who it was from, hope you get it sorted quickly.
Mate had very similar in his T350 recently all fine one minute then a couple of changes where it didnt want to work and then absolutely nothing. That need a new clutch.
Seem to remember reading on here about an improved design clutch for them but cant recall who it was from, hope you get it sorted quickly.
Sounds like your slave is gone, though as others have said you might as well do both at the same time if you have the cash. I had my clutch replaced a few months ago and it cost around £1100 all in from Sebring. Matts preferred combo is the TVR Power/AP clutch along with the modded Raceproved slave.
I get the suggestion to have both done at the same time, unfortunately that would mean having the car off the road for a few months while I scrape together the dosh (credit crunch has hit me hard being self employed).
If it turned out to be the slave cylinder only that was the problem would it be ok to get that done first .. and the clutch when it is more manageable for me ?? Would I be damaging anything ?
Thanks
If it turned out to be the slave cylinder only that was the problem would it be ok to get that done first .. and the clutch when it is more manageable for me ?? Would I be damaging anything ?
Thanks
It doesnt have to be that expensive. Firstly, if you're handy with spanners, its not that bad a job to get the clutch out yourself. Apart from a bit of a faf getting the gear-stick off, I took mine out in my single garage no problem. After that, the seals can be replaced for about £30, and with a quick bit of honing, the slave can be better than new. My clutch itself is getting sent back to AP for reconditioning to as new condition, with the cost roughly half of what a new clutch would be. Only other costs are new spigot/release bearings for another £40 added in just for good measure. Even if you cant dot he work yourself, there's still plenty of money to be saved there without comprimising the quality of the job one bit.
Ok - just came back from the car to see if I could provide a little more info, not sure what any of this means but maybe it makes sense to someone.
I can put the car seemingly into all 5 gears plus reverse with the engine running or off. The car doesn't stall, if I press the accelerator with the car in gear it doesn't budge. when I put the car into reverse the reverse light comes on outside the car.
So does this mean that the clutch is actually working and its something else ? I would've thought that if the clutch was faulty I wouldn't be able to select gears with the engine running. Selecting gears feels EXACTLY the same as it does when everything is working, like trying to select Reverse without going into 5th gear first can be difficult and it was just now, but going to Reverse from 5th is easy, like it was just now.
Would that mean the clutch is stuck in the engaged position ?
I can put the car seemingly into all 5 gears plus reverse with the engine running or off. The car doesn't stall, if I press the accelerator with the car in gear it doesn't budge. when I put the car into reverse the reverse light comes on outside the car.
So does this mean that the clutch is actually working and its something else ? I would've thought that if the clutch was faulty I wouldn't be able to select gears with the engine running. Selecting gears feels EXACTLY the same as it does when everything is working, like trying to select Reverse without going into 5th gear first can be difficult and it was just now, but going to Reverse from 5th is easy, like it was just now.
Would that mean the clutch is stuck in the engaged position ?
Yup, it means that the clutch is locked in the disengaged position. The clutch is effectively a switch that links engine and gearbox. Most of the time they are linked, but when you change gear you unlink them buy pressing the clutch pedal.
If tyou can change gear with engine on and no effect, or put it in gear but not go anywhere, then the engine and gearbox are permanently disconnected.
As said above, could be linkage, either of the cylinders (nmaster or slave) or the clutch/release bearing.
Unless it is just the linkage, its major work.
Sorry for the bad news
If tyou can change gear with engine on and no effect, or put it in gear but not go anywhere, then the engine and gearbox are permanently disconnected.
As said above, could be linkage, either of the cylinders (nmaster or slave) or the clutch/release bearing.
Unless it is just the linkage, its major work.
Sorry for the bad news
Can anyone recommend a specialist in the North/ North East London area please, I know the TVR Centre but are there any more ?
Brogenville, I wouldn't fancy myself to do it to be honest, I do have a garage but the most I have ever done on a car is change a fuel pump. Looks like I am going to have to have the car off the road for a few months while I save the money for it to go to a garage 8-(
Brogenville, I wouldn't fancy myself to do it to be honest, I do have a garage but the most I have ever done on a car is change a fuel pump. Looks like I am going to have to have the car off the road for a few months while I save the money for it to go to a garage 8-(
Edited by theHotHead on Friday 19th March 12:42
brogenville said:
It doesnt have to be that expensive. Firstly, if you're handy with spanners, its not that bad a job to get the clutch out yourself. Apart from a bit of a faf getting the gear-stick off, I took mine out in my single garage no problem. After that, the seals can be replaced for about £30, and with a quick bit of honing, the slave can be better than new. My clutch itself is getting sent back to AP for reconditioning to as new condition, with the cost roughly half of what a new clutch would be. Only other costs are new spigot/release bearings for another £40 added in just for good measure. Even if you cant dot he work yourself, there's still plenty of money to be saved there without comprimising the quality of the job one bit.
Did you use a workshop manual? I guess the box moves back rather than engine forward? How did you arrange the recon with AP? Did you contact them directly?cheers
Matt
Hello all .. just an update ... my clutch was totally shagged so STR8SIX have the car and are giving it it's service and doing the repair. Changing clutch, master AND slave cylinder too !
Got a few other bits and pieces that neede doing, on a masive list they drew up, gonna have to get in done in 2 phases, the essentials and what can wait.
I'm gagging to get it back though .. the sun is shining and I need a thrill ride.
Got a few other bits and pieces that neede doing, on a masive list they drew up, gonna have to get in done in 2 phases, the essentials and what can wait.
I'm gagging to get it back though .. the sun is shining and I need a thrill ride.
brogenville said:
I took my clutch out over a couple of leasurly evenings. I do have the varley manual, but havingdone the job a few times on my old cerb, it was pretty straightforward, save for the akward bolts on top of the gearbox (the cerb uses allan bolts whereas the tam has 1/2" bolts). I think if you're fairly practical, you should be able to figure your weay through it all. Basic process is:
1) remove undertrays
2) remove rear diffuser
3) remove exhaust (cat back)
4) remove prop shaft (bit of persiverence required here- imperial bolts too)
5) remove gearbox mounts- lex box drop enough to access 4 bolts holding gear stick in and support with jack)
6) remove 4 stick bolts and lift stick up inside car and tie to rear mirror
7) undo 4 'box bolts and remove 'box
8) disconnect clutch slave piping
9) undo bolts for bellhousing
10) remove starter motor (need to take airbox off etc.)
11) give bellhousing a knock with rubber mallet and you should be able to pop it off thus exposing the clutch
Few tips for refitting (i) as its a twin plate clutch, a clutch alignment tool will help you out a lot come refitting time (though its still an arse getting it lined up and into the spigot bearing) (ii) when you reassemble the slave (because its certainly worth putting new seals in while you're there) make sure the holes are at 12 and 6- this is very important or you wont be able to bleed the clutch properly. Thats about it really, and obviously, refitting is the reverse of removal ;-). Worth fitting a new relaease bearing too just for good measure, plus spigot bearing and gearbox mounts if they look dodgey.
As far as relining goes, I did send mine off to AP (via raceparts). From the outset, everyone told me there would be no issue getting it reconed (and I know for a fact that other TVR road clutches have been done in the apst), but after a long wait, and a massive argument with the head of road clutches from AP, they will be sending it back having done no work to it. Its a long story, and they let me down big time, but the bottom line is that its not in their business plan to recon twin plate road clutches, so for no better reason than just being difficult, they wont do it. However, a company called Auto and Industrial can and will. I've used them in the past for exactly the same clutch on my cerb, and they were (more or less) spot on. Quite a few others have too since then, so they should be pretty clued up with these clutches. When I get mine back from AP (supposedly in transit now), I'll be sending it on to them. Theycan do everything bar actually replace the diaghphram spring, but they can polish it up, and if you feel strongly, raceproved can sell you a new dighphram spring that Auto and Industrial can fit.
Aaaaannnnnyway, hope all of that helps! Give me a shout if you need any more advice!
Cheers for that. 1) remove undertrays
2) remove rear diffuser
3) remove exhaust (cat back)
4) remove prop shaft (bit of persiverence required here- imperial bolts too)
5) remove gearbox mounts- lex box drop enough to access 4 bolts holding gear stick in and support with jack)
6) remove 4 stick bolts and lift stick up inside car and tie to rear mirror
7) undo 4 'box bolts and remove 'box
8) disconnect clutch slave piping
9) undo bolts for bellhousing
10) remove starter motor (need to take airbox off etc.)
11) give bellhousing a knock with rubber mallet and you should be able to pop it off thus exposing the clutch
Few tips for refitting (i) as its a twin plate clutch, a clutch alignment tool will help you out a lot come refitting time (though its still an arse getting it lined up and into the spigot bearing) (ii) when you reassemble the slave (because its certainly worth putting new seals in while you're there) make sure the holes are at 12 and 6- this is very important or you wont be able to bleed the clutch properly. Thats about it really, and obviously, refitting is the reverse of removal ;-). Worth fitting a new relaease bearing too just for good measure, plus spigot bearing and gearbox mounts if they look dodgey.
As far as relining goes, I did send mine off to AP (via raceparts). From the outset, everyone told me there would be no issue getting it reconed (and I know for a fact that other TVR road clutches have been done in the apst), but after a long wait, and a massive argument with the head of road clutches from AP, they will be sending it back having done no work to it. Its a long story, and they let me down big time, but the bottom line is that its not in their business plan to recon twin plate road clutches, so for no better reason than just being difficult, they wont do it. However, a company called Auto and Industrial can and will. I've used them in the past for exactly the same clutch on my cerb, and they were (more or less) spot on. Quite a few others have too since then, so they should be pretty clued up with these clutches. When I get mine back from AP (supposedly in transit now), I'll be sending it on to them. Theycan do everything bar actually replace the diaghphram spring, but they can polish it up, and if you feel strongly, raceproved can sell you a new dighphram spring that Auto and Industrial can fit.
Aaaaannnnnyway, hope all of that helps! Give me a shout if you need any more advice!
Putting it back if you don't buy a built up stack wasn't as straightforward as it could be. When the clutch pack is removed from the flywheel it looks as if you get to the second clutch plate by unscrewing 3 small bolts. You don't, What you need to do is get a thick screwdriver or pry bar and break it open.
These 3 bolts hold the pressure plate onto the midplate with 3 star-lock washers, and as the plates wear, the star-lock washers also wear to ensure the plates keep the correct distance apart. So, when you replace the clutch you also need 3 new ones of these. They go in slots on the pressure plate. Centre them and push down gently so they are catching the bolts by as little as possible.
When you take the "cage", midplate and pressure plate apart, make sure they go back together in exactly the way they came off. They should have blue paint splodged on one leg of the cage and one finger of each of the mid and pressure plates to help you do this.
Auto and Industrial will indeed do your friction plates, but best ask them do yours half a mill thinner than mine..... Or you'll need to do some "in-car" skimming......
Costs? £40 each disc from A and I, 30ish for new slave cyl seals and £150 for new diaphragm spring from Raceproved.
You guys are troopers, there is absolutely no way I was attempting any of that !!!
Got the car back today, went to STR8SIX and collected it .. they had to replace EVERY clutch component !!
Got a 12K service done, had all 4 shocks replaced too and some other bits and pieces. Memories of TVRs being "cash eaters" are coming back .... not good.
Got the car back today, went to STR8SIX and collected it .. they had to replace EVERY clutch component !!
Got a 12K service done, had all 4 shocks replaced too and some other bits and pieces. Memories of TVRs being "cash eaters" are coming back .... not good.
theHotHead said:
You guys are troopers, there is absolutely no way I was attempting any of that !!!
Got the car back today, went to STR8SIX and collected it .. they had to replace EVERY clutch component !!
Got a 12K service done, had all 4 shocks replaced too and some other bits and pieces. Memories of TVRs being "cash eaters" are coming back .... not good.
Got the car back today, went to STR8SIX and collected it .. they had to replace EVERY clutch component !!
Got a 12K service done, had all 4 shocks replaced too and some other bits and pieces. Memories of TVRs being "cash eaters" are coming back .... not good.
Just done my suspension now mine needs a clutch
Barry Ashcroft said:
theHotHead said:
You guys are troopers, there is absolutely no way I was attempting any of that !!!
Got the car back today, went to STR8SIX and collected it .. they had to replace EVERY clutch component !!
Got a 12K service done, had all 4 shocks replaced too and some other bits and pieces. Memories of TVRs being "cash eaters" are coming back .... not good.
Got the car back today, went to STR8SIX and collected it .. they had to replace EVERY clutch component !!
Got a 12K service done, had all 4 shocks replaced too and some other bits and pieces. Memories of TVRs being "cash eaters" are coming back .... not good.
Just done my suspension now mine needs a clutch
cccscotland said:
Auto and Industrial will indeed do your friction plates, but best ask them do yours half a mill thinner than mine..... Or you'll need to do some "in-car" skimming......
As an addendum to this, I now don't feel I can advise A&I refacing your clutches. Less than 1000 miles after fitting these plates they blew. On examining the plates out of the car it seems that one of the faces got way too hot and just disintegrated. Raceproved sold me a pair of exchange plates for just a little more than A&I charged - on examining the plates the raceproved ones have a lot more copper weave in them than the A&I. This is for heat dissipation, and the reason that the A&I ones disintegrated was the lack of heat dissipation. New plates are now in and needed no "skimming" so fingers crossed they'll last a decent whack of miles.Gassing Station | Tamora, T350 & Sagaris | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff