Pod voltage display
Discussion
Two things to check
1. Connection of the ribbon cables at the back of the pod
2. The 100A fuse under the airbox (sits between battery and alternator). This is the most likely cause and your readings probably mean it is about to fail and leave you stranded, change it NOW! Do a search on this forum for many articles on this topic.
1. Connection of the ribbon cables at the back of the pod
2. The 100A fuse under the airbox (sits between battery and alternator). This is the most likely cause and your readings probably mean it is about to fail and leave you stranded, change it NOW! Do a search on this forum for many articles on this topic.
Filos Hippos said:
Hello,
found this thread because I'm experiencing the same problem...
What do you mean by "ribbon cables at the back of the pod"?
Thanks.
2 ribbon cables connect the pod to the dash ecu in the footwell, they can become dislodged as they are only push fit type connectionsfound this thread because I'm experiencing the same problem...
What do you mean by "ribbon cables at the back of the pod"?
Thanks.
Ok, thanks.
Checked both fuses and both seem to be allright.
Also checked earthleads. the one connected to the engine mount was not loose but the nut kept turning.
Didn't have a multi-meter at hand but I think alternator is faulty.
Will check tomorrow. Am I right in thinking that voltage over alternator and mass needs to be at 14 volts plus?
Checked both fuses and both seem to be allright.
Also checked earthleads. the one connected to the engine mount was not loose but the nut kept turning.
Didn't have a multi-meter at hand but I think alternator is faulty.
Will check tomorrow. Am I right in thinking that voltage over alternator and mass needs to be at 14 volts plus?
UPDATE:
Alternator faulty. Also some kind of cooling fins appeared to be loose inside of the housing of the alternator.
Belt was damaged on the inside to as it probably slipped quite a lot.
Was not too bad to unbolt, less then half an hour. Now have to find replacement or have it reconditioned here in Belgium.
There is no brandname, nor serial number on it...
Alternator faulty. Also some kind of cooling fins appeared to be loose inside of the housing of the alternator.
Belt was damaged on the inside to as it probably slipped quite a lot.
Was not too bad to unbolt, less then half an hour. Now have to find replacement or have it reconditioned here in Belgium.
There is no brandname, nor serial number on it...
Filos Hippos said:
UPDATE:
Alternator faulty. Also some kind of cooling fins appeared to be loose inside of the housing of the alternator.
Belt was damaged on the inside to as it probably slipped quite a lot.
Was not too bad to unbolt, less then half an hour. Now have to find replacement or have it reconditioned here in Belgium.
There is no brandname, nor serial number on it...
Landrover part I believe, don't have a part number though. Discussed lots on here (there is even a how to guide) you should find the info there.Alternator faulty. Also some kind of cooling fins appeared to be loose inside of the housing of the alternator.
Belt was damaged on the inside to as it probably slipped quite a lot.
Was not too bad to unbolt, less then half an hour. Now have to find replacement or have it reconditioned here in Belgium.
There is no brandname, nor serial number on it...
Shep
EvoOlli said:
Yes, standard Landrover Part, but there are some threads where it's written that you have to put a Diode into one of the wires to the alternator....because our cars don't have the light bulb to start the charging....
Yep the diode fitting is a simple job. The 'proper' TVR alternators cost £200+ but £100 + £1 for a marlin diode is a bit easier in the wallet. Gassing Station | Tamora, T350 & Sagaris | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


